32/36 jets

[gobi1]

So, a while back I spoke of failing emission testing up here in British Columbia in my '75 2002a. Got some sage advice and checked float level, timing, all ignition components, then decided to change up the main jets. Stock jets in a 32/36 appear to be 140, so I backed up all the way to twin 120s. It drove well until about 50 mph, then seemed to starve for gas. Well the emission testing station was only 2 km away, so I went for it. Result...sailed through! Reading for CO dropped to negligible. Now I will swap jets again and go up to say...130s and try this as a compromise between using so much fuel I was over the limit, and using so little I was running too lean. Just some info if you are ever wondering about those 140s in your 32/36. Mike

[c.d.iesel]

......give these a try -

Float Level 40mm

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55

main 170

air correction 175

AND -PLUG THE SECONDARY ENRICHMENT HOLE

AT THE TOP OF THE CARB AS MY DIAGRAM SHOWS.

SEE THE HUGE DIFFERANCE IN ACCURATE FUEL

METERING THROUGH OUT ALL RPM AND THROTTLE OPENINGS.

and this assumes you use a timing light

to set the timing? and yer valves are adjusted

to about 0.006" cold - otherwise forgitaboutitt

[gobi1]

Great info, thanks for posting. I have been wondering about those valves, cannot remember when last adjusted. I will check these and continue to refine. Mike

[c.d.iesel]

...and it's not so much just the 'main" jets,

it's the matching of the 'air correction' to 'main' jet

for smooth power delivery accross 1/4 throttle

opening , low rpm, transitioning up to 3/4 - FULL

throttle and high rpm - they both effect each other

make sure your compression is healthy

(above 140 psi), valves adjusted (0.006"),

dwell(if you have points 59degrees or 0.016")

and timing using a light setting the ball in the

inspection hole next to the starter motor

at 1500 rpm and no vacuum hoses connected

to the distributor if you have any while performing the

timing check. Reattach the vac advance hose after setting.

another often missed fine detail - while holding your gas pedal to the floor,

stand outside the door so you can see if the carb linkage it tapping the

FULL OPEN STOP on the carb. Adjust your fire wall rod as needed,

or possible your pedal box throttle lever is positioned incorrectly on it's splines???

but adjust so with moderate pressure on the gas pedal to the floor - the carB is indeed opening fully against it's stop.

happy spring time