Jump to content
Fitting new reFittingar quarter window seals

Fitting new reFittingar quarter window seals

I really struggled installing these seals, they are a real barsteward to fit and there are a few tricks that are not immediately obvious.  So, I have decided to share "my" method, it may differ from your method, but it works, so please if you've done it a different way, that's fine, so long as it works for you.


Firstly tools I used:


Nylon hammer

Razor blade

Plastic trim tool set (Ebay - less than $2)

Sharpie pen

Hole punch tool


Plastic trim tool set


Nylon Hammer






By far the most difficult and most important part of this installation is getting the 'kink' part of the frame installed correctly.  If you don't do this, it will fail, when you install the interior 'U' trim, as the pressure will pull it back out of the frame and you'll have to start over !!  Not funny, trust me, I know...... it really pisses you off !!


So, the basic method is as follows:


I won't go into removing the old glass in detail, but if you haven't yet done this, beware of the retaining pin, that holds it in behind the B pillar rubber seal, if you go pulling and then pull harder because it won't budge, it will eventually shatter.........I know.......I just know OK.  There is just one pin and it is towards the top of the B pillar.


If you have fitted the metal B pillar glass channel, remove it.  You will see why later.  Take the seal and first, fit the lower horizontal portion into the chrome trim, this is generally a good fit and shouldn't need trimming, just ensure it is a nice fit and you have pushed it into the recess of the chrome trim.   DON'T TRIM THE SEAL AT ALL YET AT THE B PILLAR END.




I found the next bit crucial if you want the seal to remain in place.  You need to take the razor blade and trim the seal, on the inside edge, where it sits in the kink, otherwise when you bend it to fit, the inside edge splays out and makes it virtually impossible to fit into the frame.


Just mark the area where it kinks, and shave off the edge.  Don't worry, it won't affect the seal, or be noticeable once installed.



You are now ready to start installing the seal into the frame.  Don't do this in isolation, push the interior 'U' trim into place on the inside, at the same time, working a few inches at a time, this will ensure the seal fits correctly and means you find out right away, if something isn't right, rather than wait till after you thought you'd finished !!!  Use your plastic trim tool, to start pushing the seal into the frame, starting at the very bottom.  Work a couple of inches and you'll almost be up to the kink area, then stop and go about 3 inches above the kink and start working back down towards it, pushing the rubber into the kink at the same time.  It is vital that you now ensure the interior 'U' trim, is fitted correctly and snugly and as it should be, use your nylon hammer to tap everything into place and don't move on until you're happy that this area is fully fitted and won't pull out later.



                                                I used this tool, it takes quite a bit of force to push the seal behind the frame.



                                                                   You should now have something resembling this


So, now you're happy with this area, go ahead and work the rest of the seal into the frame work up towards the B pillar.  Just work it slowly and remembering to also fit the interior trim as you go.  Stop every 6 inches and give the seal and trim a few taps with your hammer, to settle it into position.




Once you get to the B pillar, you'll need to trim the seal.  I just used my razor blade for this, it was easy.  You need to judge where to cut for yourself, but for obvious reasons - don't go cutting I too short !!!!




Once you have the seal in place, pat yourself on the back, go and make a coffee and rest your hands, because they'll most likely be killing you from all that pressing in of the rubber !!!


The next bit might differ from other people's methods, but trust me, it works and it makes life easier.


Basically, rather than fit the B pillar glass channel and rubber to the car and then fit the glass.  Fit everything TO the glass, then the whole lot to the car in one hit.


So, take the metal channel and temporarily refit it to the frame, with a couple of screws, then fit the new rubber piece and centre it between the other seal, you'll notice the outer bit of rubber will need to be trimmed, do it later when the glass is fitted, so you know it's correct.






The reason to fit these now, is to mark for a new hole, for the glass retaining pin, as the holes in the new rubber are most likely not in the correct place !!!  So, go ahead and mark where the pin would go through the rubber.


Then take your hole punch tool and punch a couple of new holes for your new split pin (not supplied).



Now fit everything to the glass, including the opening handle (if it was removed).  The pin is inserted from the inside, as shown, but I don't think it would matter too much which way !!


                                                                                 Scuse the grubby fingers !!







Now carefully push the glass into position on the B pillar, paying attention to the rubber seal sitting correctly. Once inserted, whilst holding the glass, reattach the opening handle to the C pillar (thus ensuring the glass won't fall out).  I did mine without a rear window, so it was simple, but if you have a rear window installed, you might need someone in the car to help out.




Now, on the inside of the car, pull back the B pillar rubber trim to reveal the metal channel and the holes to secure it, using the self-tapping screws.






              Refit the four screws and push the rubber seal back into position, then trim off the excess rubber on the outside.


                                                                                            Hey Presto.....You're done.... Congratulations !











Was it helpful?


  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2

User Feedback

Recommended Comments

On 1/26/2019 at 2:09 PM, NYNick said:

I'm having a devil of a time with these seals. I tried Dawn liquid and Silicone spray, but can't get past the kink/corner. After trying to push the lip into the flange from the outside of the car I reversed my method and tried pushing the seal in from the inside of the car after I had rolled the seal lip into the flange. I have the tool pictured in the article. These seals just don't want to fit down in that frame. Very frustrating. Shouldn't be THAT hard. I already did the door seals so I thought I had a leg up on this job.


did anything you tried end up helping you with the frustrating install @NYNick? I'm about to embark on this task and wonder if anything's changed in the seals since this article was written if you were having such a hard time more recently. Any further guidance would be appreciate!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What finally worked for me was the Blue Dawn Liquid and another set of hands. Either my buddy had stronger hands than me, had better technique, or me helping him helped, but boy, what a bitch of a job. We ended up doing it all from the outside.


Full disclosure: my hand strength isn't what it used to be and my buddy is 18 years younger than I am.


I think this was the number one or two hardest jobs on the car, right up there with frozen brake adjusters, rusted rear carrier bushings and a stuck e-brake cable.

Edited by NYNick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did this on my touring, shouldn't be any different, just a bit longer ?


When I started I had little patience and it was hot. Swearing ensued. I soon ditched the rubbish plastic tool I was using and ground down an old flat head screw driver (if you're careful you only touch the rubber) and found some silicone grease.


By taping the seal roughly in place, applying a little lube to the edge that fits into the body, plus the edge that seals against the paint so I could easily slide my screw driver along, I found a technique that worked for me. Push and twist, little by little, then tapping it with the rubber mallet


After a beer break I tackled the other side and it took me about 10 minutes. Moral of the story -  a little experience, the right tool and some lube goes a long way.











Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the pictures and information I’m about to start replacing all seals on my 1974 I feel more confident after reading this information thank you again 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the write-up. I just did it using URO seals. They seemed fine, but the job is a total pain in the ass. Why did BMW design a massive seal and then hold on the front end of the window with four little #6 metal screws!!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm trying to get my seals in and am stuck on step one. I cannot get the seal to sit down in the kink of the window. I can get the lower section in place pretty easily, but it pops out at the kink. I see that there is extra material molded into the seal at that spot. But I don't see a corresponding space for the extra material. I'm almost ready to start cutting the seal, but I don't want to lose the ability to keep water out. Am I missing something (using recent URO seals)




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know what are the proper type and size screw to mount the hinge bracket inside the car. I cant find mine.  It looks like two philips head but anyone know the size and length? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/1/2024 at 2:13 PM, Rodolfo Lasparri said:

They are an oval head 4.8 x 19


Thank you. Are they normal screws or machine ones? Lastly are there inserts in the body, or do they screw into the metal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...