DukeRimmer

(nt)

I haven't used these, but put e21 belts in my '74. Had to use spacers and washers from other sources to get that anchor to pivot. Perhaps I can help you with spacers.

(nt)

Plastic door openers are from the newest cars. They're not chromed, but otherwise interchangable with the usual chrome handles. '67 had a different shape chrome handle that required a different bell crank and much longer retaining screw. Pic shows '67 door bits.

(nt)

Weld stuff in tube is plastic. It will burn and blow away. The quick, easy fix is to shorten, and plug, the tube that is clamped to the exhaust nipple. You can see this tube at the top of my first pic.

Better way is to remove, and plug, the nipple. The exhaust manifold pic shows a removed nipple, a manifold with the nipple welded shut, and a manifold that has the nipple taped and a bold threaded in. IMHO taping threads in this thin walled nipple is a bad idea, but looks like it worked.

I was lucky to find a 1" long allen head plug in a friend's porsche junk that was the correct size and thread. It looks like our trans drain plugs, but fits the exhaust manifold perfectly. Best of luck with your project.

The cleanest look is to remove the exhaust nipple and use a small plug. I found an allen head plug for my '68 at a porsche shop. Some weld a plug in the nipple. At least one guy threaded it and installed a bolt.

You'll need to plug the hole in the block with a portion of the pump bracket.

Front yes, but there are three flavors of rear, maybe four. Long and short diff, early and late control arms. I found out the hard way.

(nt)

All bolts want to be tight. The hinged arms have little affect on full open position, and should not be worn out. The adjustment at fenders affects closed position and lift effort. The tortion bars are very tough, hard to imagine them failing. My guess is that the tortion bars have lost their grip at the ends of the tube. I'll post detail pics of ends if needed.

10K per year until 2003. Now it lives with my '59 sprite and sees less than 2K. Was daily driver, now collectable classic.

The original post in this thread described failures of two separate circuits. The only part shared by the turn signals and the high beams is the turn switch and turn switch wire harness connector.

The new description sounds like a failure of the power lead to the switch through the green with yellow wire from the hazard flasher and or hazard switch. The wire diagram is not clear where the power comes from. It shows the wire coming from the flasher, but another from the hazard switch is connected to the same terminal on the flasher.

I’m using my ’74 as well as a wiring diagram to help with diagnosis. On my car the green with yellow wire is always hot. It does flash when hazards are in use. If the car had no power to the green with yellow when flashers were off, I would suspect the hazard switch and or flasher.

Disconnect switch gang connector near drivers left knee.

Turn on ignition switch and test for power at the gang connector spade that feeds the green wire going to the dimmer switch. Test also the spade feeding the green with yellow wire going to turn switch for power.

Power to the turn switch circuit comes from the hazard switch, and or flasher, through the green with yellow. The turn switch diverts this power to the blue with red for the left turn lamps, and to the blue with black for the right.

For the high beam circuit, test continuity between the white wire and the yellow with white wire. For the high beam intermittent (flasher) circuit you need continuity between the white wire and green wire.

The notch is to position the tool while you pry the spring over the tab. See construction zone forum.

Let's not lose it. Thanks Jim.

(nt)

You'll be surprised how easily the nose moves. Stand to the side, the ram can slip violently.

(nt)

You'll mangle the door before they break. If you're getting distortion in the middle of door when hammering on the pins, just back up with heavy tool (hammer and dolly technique). You can also push them out from inside. They are very tough. I always bought new ones for my customers, but used is plenty good enough for my cars.

Yes, they are interchangable, except for speedo ratio. To get rid of the wood grain just change the glass retaining rings and the odo reset knob.

(nt)

'67-'70 W1.24s. Must have been a ti.

Amazing how much needed info is left out of manuals in favor of useless wording like "to remove part; withdraw screws and disconnect wires".

Using your formula;

3.64=w1.3 or w1.297

4.10 and 4.11=w1.4

4.37=should be something like w1.55

3.45=should be something like w1.226

I have six early speedos. Four are w1.4. That makes sense. Two are w1.24, so early cars came with something between 3.45 and 3.64? My books show 4.10, 4.11, and 4.37 only. Did ti have a ratio not listed?

I find no reference to 3.90 used in 2002, but I have a '74-'76 w1.39. Is that the LSD ratio? What is the actual w number on a tii speedo?

What is the actual w number used on early car with 4.37 diff?

I'd like to be able to match speedos with diffs. I have early ('67-'71) speedos in W1.4 and W1.24 flavors. Being early they should be 4.10, 4.11, or 4.375.

I have a late 1.39 and presumed it was for a tii 3.45. Can't find any referance to a 3.90 except those used in e21s.

The standard 3.64=1.3 or 1.297 is clear, but the rest is confusing.

Don't get your troll referance, but no I'm not a dwarf, giant, or fisherman. Just looking for more knowledge. I have the blue binder and other repair manuals, but the 3.64 is the only clear info provided.

(nt)