DukeRimmer

The correct way to do this is to remove the interior and the thick black sound absorber from the floor, then replace the entire frame rail from the subframe mounting area back. This would have required new carpets which would cry out for new headliner and dash, which means removing all the glass, which requires stripping the paint from the roof and glass areas, so may as well restore the whole bloody car.

Don't want to do that to this car so I cut the bottom plus half of both sides of the frame rail and patched it in several sections, one at a time. The size and location of the patches was dictated by the shapes and curves in the rail.

I would never pay someone to do this. If you're paying for labor, replace the front panel. If it was a restoration project, I'd replace the front panel. The paint needs to be removed before complete respray so I'm just using some generic white laquer.

Wish this was about my '73 restoration project that has been hibernating for years. Perhaps I could find the time to get back to it if this '74 could find a new home.

The '74 is worthy of restoration, rust is limited, no collision history, and dents are minor. Being a DD I have kept costs low by doing most repairs with used parts and will continue to do so. If it were a restoration it would have a rebuilt engine instead of the used one I installed shortly after purchase, and I'll repair the front valence instead of replacing the front panel.

The body panels are to flat. The upper fenders are always dented.

Bill,

I tested four motors with results similar to yours. Two of them had black with yellow wires feeding the high speed and black with white feeding the low speed. The other two motors were reversed; black and white for high speed and black with yellow for low. The wires were located at the same pin position on all four so I guess you'll have to wait til you get the car back and test them on the car.

WilliamB,

The Bavaria motor is larger in every dimension.

Interesting note; Early link assemblies were drilled to fit early motors only. Late motors had reversed mounting bolt patterns, but late link assemblies were drilled to accept both bolt patterns.

Why not plug them in on the car to test speed circuits and park circuit?

I had no luck with Bavaria motors. The internal parts also do not interchange.

Springs under door trim panels. OEM pic is wrong.

The rivet in the center of the large gear wears and misaligns with small gear at crank. The rivet can be replaced with Benz part, but it's not hard to find good used '02 regulators.

Slipping gears.

1,2,3 are for wind up window. #2 small end against the door.

4,5,6 are for vent glass.

Door opener ring is not shown.

Step 1; vapor barrier and springs.

Step 2; door trim panel.

Step 3; protector rings, knobs, and handles.

(nt)

(nt)

They work best in conjunction with photos showing locating tab construction.

Apologies to off topic police.

Turn metal ring clockwise until it digs into the plastic ring.

Take it off.

If you can't trust the paint, how can you trust the filler. Those who find replacement of filler difficult need help with technique.

Filler is quick and easy to shape if the correct tools are used. Tedium begins with the block sanding of primer surfacer step.

IMHO rear end damage with buckles in frame rails and 1/4s above wheels is equal to rust damage. It's repairable, but not a good starting point for a full restoration project.

Hazards working?

Yes, body color all around. Are you prepared to correctly locate the upper edges? Front is easy, rear is not. Remember to leave no sharp upper edges under your new paint. What brand texture? In my day Wurth was the only choice. US brands were too course, but they may have improved since my retirement.

I know nothing about '02 perfermance topics, but do have an interesting item in my e3 stash.

If it's rough light is better. Black is worst, white is best. That's why fiberglass campers are always white.

email sent

My 1981 vintage mig welder sometimes turns on when the trigger is not depressed. It does this even if the trigger is disconnected. If you can figure out what's confusing the thing, and can come to Santa Cruz, I have a free welder for you.

I've never had to cut, but replacement part quality has been declining since the eighties. New rubber always shrinks, so keep it as long as possible. Don't be tempted by stainless steel rivets. Good luck.