DukeRimmer

Left and right buckets, yes. Also left and right fillers. Align notch in retaining ring with lump in filler ring, no overlap.

New Rimmer ramblings in construction zone forum.

Removal;

Disconnect latch from C pillar using common phillips screwdriver. Remove ¼ trim panel and vertical windlace from both sides of the B pillar.

Insert cotter pin extractor or other hook tool at top of front rubber seal and pull away from B pillar (pic 187).

Remove lower three screws from hinge using long #2 phillips screwdriver (pic 189). Loosen final screw, grasp and hold rear of glass, and remove final screw. Withdraw glass complete with hinge, front seal, and latch. Glass will break if it is forced open too far when accessing hinge screws. Use of longer screw driver prevents too much opening.

Pull door whether strip from vertical moulding, lower glass seal from horizontal moulding, and drill out retaining rivets.

Remove mouldings. Clean, repair rust, and paint as needed.

Installation;

Apply brushable seam sealer to attachment holes (pic 195). Install mouldings using aluminum rivets only. The aluminum rivet mandrel breaks very easily, so push down hard on rivet gun to set the moulding into the seam sealer. Do not use stainless steel rivets. They are hard to collapse and the mandrel is hard to break. This puts stress on, and can easily crack, the paint around the retaining holes. Cracked paint invites rust demons, so be gentle with the retaining holes. Brush some sealer on the tops of rivets (pic 191).

Place ~15mm wad of strip caulk in front corners of ¼ light opening at the ends of the seals. Reattach seals, using rubber glue on door seal if needed.

Reinstall ¼ glass assembly using long screwdriver. Have tweezers or magnet on hand to retrieve dropped screws captured behind the vertical seal. Reinstall latch using short screwdriver. Reinstall windlace and trim panel using soft hammer. Remove seat bottom if trim panel is reluctant.

Photos;

197; Tools and supplies not including those for cleaning and painting.

187; Hinge seal and hook tool.

189; Long screwdriver accessing hinge screws.

191; Original brushable seam sealer (gray color) on top of rivets.

195; Original seam sealer at attachment holes.

The cotter pin holds the glass to the hinge. The screws hold the hinge to the pillar. Removing the cotter and glass before removing the hinge is like removing the points before removing the distributor. Like removing seat tracks before removing seats.

Looks like it's time to do a write up on this subject. My experience with replacement of the mouldings will generate much more argument than removal of glass. Get ready to disagree with Rimmer.

No need to remove the cotter pin.

You may want to keep the short cable in your tool box. Works great when combined with reversible drill for bench testing speedos.

(nt)

(nt)

my distributor is not rebounding properly

quote]

Sounds like it just needs cleaning, unless it's a retard, then it needs to find the dumpster.

(nt)

Mike,

Just found the answer to my drivability question in the for sale forum. My rust free '73 wants to mate with your '72. We can come to Monterey any time, any day, except 3-13-07. Please click the email button next to my name above.

Mitch

I want it. Will it drive around the bay, or does it need to be towed?

Use a "one step cleaner/wax". Avoid abrasives of any kind, and don't spend big money on snake oils with big promises. You may be doing this already as I don't know harly, german stuff, or excaliber. I can't recomment a brand because I've been using the same stuff for thirty years, and it's not widely available.

It should instantly remove oxidation and water spots with no effort, and leave a wax shine. It will not last a long time, but will look good for a while and not waste your time and money. Most importantly it will not remove, and will protect what little solid paint is left.

The smaller print in the pic below prominently states one step cleaner and wax. Look for a major brand with that description.

Your's (if we're talking about the one pictured when we were talking front turn lamps) makes my deceased black '76 look pristine. The cost of restoration would pay for your calif. vacation, several cars, and the truck to haul them home.

I love mine. It matches my spider monkey arms, and switches are easy to bend. If you're short armed, just get one with a little dish. Send me an email if you're still in need of under dash covers.

No dish=flat=no room for fingers at switches.

Mine has no dish, requires bending stalk switches.

May 4222580 rest in peace. Hope you still need the front turn lamps. Payment received, will ship soon.

The two nuts are on the two studs at sides of speedo.

(nt)

The old guy I apprenticed under wore no particle mask, no respirator, and smoked two packs a day. He's in his late 70's now and healthier than I am. I started using masks in the late seventies and had no problem with dusts and chemicals, but became hyper sensitive to cigarette smoke. Many smokers were offended when I headed for the door when they needed to light up, but I had to go. I got over it about two years after retirement. One of my employees could work with all the dusts and vapors except brushable seam sealer which made him nauseous. We all have different sensitivities.

to disassemble the outside of car, strip off the old paint, iron out minor wrinkles, paint outside of car, and reassemble, in the late eighties. I did as few as possible because the money is in collision repair. Labor rate was $35 per hour.

It's ancient history but perhaps it helps to illustrate how many hours are needed, and that there's much more profit in replacing panels.

The rules were contradictory and enforced by an idiot who could not keep a private sector job. He freely admitted that he was enforcing only the laws that he understood, which were far from the entire rule book.

Now I'm the landlord, much easier because other idiots keep making laws (slow growth) that increase the cost of rent.

My wife used to love riding in my '02 recaros and my topless sprite until we replaced her '70 benz 250c with '04 benz c230 kompressor coupe. Now the love is gone. My cars are old, noisy, dangerous, and primitive.

The pail is wire pulling lube. Hardware store electrical dept.