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jerry

Solex
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Posts posted by jerry

  1. i'd keep the original panel to the car if given the choice.  'oil canning' is the issue i've had to deal with before and the 1st time i just used a lot of bondo.  i'm a bit wiser now and am learing how to shrink metal and it works.  lot's of educational videos on youtube.  you'll never quite have the factory spotwelds and getting the seam just right is work.  i think the shorter path is to fix what you have.

  2. Do not buy this car unless you have passion, time and money for a relatively rare 02 that will not be worth the time and money necessary to bring it back to running condition and repair the rust.  If you transfer the parts to another shell, it's no longer a ti, period.  It's a tribute car at that point.  additionally, judging from the rusty brake booster, chances are that the suspension bits are equally rusty and needing time in a grit blast cabinet.  you make no mention of your skill level, bank account, familiarity with the 02's and patience. 

     

    Having made these comments, there was a time not too long ago that i would have jumped all over that car if the opportunity presented itself.  in fact, i was offered a simlarly rusty ti about 5-6 years ago for $800, but it was in Calgary Canada ( i'm in SF Bay Area) and winter was coming and it was not registered and the logistics just didn't work for me.  I hate to see one rust away, but scan the project blogs on this website for clues in what it takes to fix rust.  btw, i have collected about 95% of the ti-specific parts to make a tribute car, including an authentic, perfect 3-piece dash.

  3. about the best you can hope for is to dribble a drop or two of oil along a length of wire that you place as best as possible at the base of the shaft.  point the wire and look to ensure you are locating properly then add a drop or two on the wire and watch it roll down the wire to the target.  The motor has bushings and not ball bearings, btw.  i don't recall if the lower bushing is accessable through the heater box opening.  using a sprayer will merely act as an oil coating for everything in the vicinity. 

  4. i bought several of the Ultimate Car Covers solely for the reason that they are guaranteed for life.  they last about 3 years on average and i have had about 4 replacements so far.  the last time i had to give a little more explanation to them, but i provided a receipt and they honored the replacement.  they are more like rain deflectors.  eventually, the sun will make them brittle and wind causes them to wear at spots.  i am finding a cheaper alternative is to purchase a roll of 6mil black plastic sheeting and cut to size.  there are neat clips that can be attached at the edges for use with bungee cord or rope to secure. 

     

    i also purchased a NOAH cover and it has held up for 6 years outside so far.  it is covering a shell so i haven't watched closely if rain is getting in or not.  it does, however, breath a bit better than the Ultimate Cover.  Black plastic will definitely cause condensation so be careful.  it's really tough to have to rely solely on a car cover to protect a car.  a carport is an unbelievably vast improvement when used in conjunction with a cover.  and those of you with a garage....., that is car nirvana.

  5. One upgrade I have been considering for trailing arms is to weld a portion of a 14mm socket to the inside of the arm where the flexible brake line goes through, because those connections are often referred to as a PITA to get at. On standard arms it seems like a flare nut wrench will just lay in there and the walls of the arm would keep it from spinning; but in the tii arms, you cannot get a wrench through that little hole. I am tempted to chop off a couple of 14mm deep sockets and weld them into those holes on the tii set for their future owner to enjoy, unless someone here tells me this is a stupid idea. 

     

    Tom

    Welding a 14mm socket (nice idea, btw) or alternate is mandatory on self-made boxed trailing arms.  the factory welded up an appropriate 6-sided 14mm hex made of a stamped section of thick steel to keep the flex brake line from rotating during tightening and loosening.  IIRC, i bolted my trailing arms to a spare rear crossmember while i tacked the plate in place.  i did not have alignment issues on the finished part.  if you are lucky enough to have access to a nice stamping press you can have the brake line hole stamped out and it will look very much like a factory job.  and yes, the original factory welds were not pretty, so it's okay to not sweat over looks if you want to simulate original tii trailing arms.  Done with care, these are probably better than original if rust was/is a concern.

  6. I vote for #1 from the set of 17 or number #1 from the set of 9 if the word ".com" is dropped.

     

     

    agree with dropping the .COM  it's kinda like putting zebra labels on vintage-looking articles.

     

    if the metal badges don't work out.  any number of these designs would be great as lower-cost sticky decals.

     

    i'd even consider a badge as a replacement for my hood emblem should that be considered.

  7.  I've noticed when I shift into 5th gear (started like 2 days ago & had the rebuild a few weeks back) that it starts to make a clicking sound above 50-60mph (sounds like a pencil tapping on a desk). 

    If it aint one thing, its another  -_-

     

    Raise the car up on 4 jackstands.  get underneath with a light.  2 places to look.  my first guess is that the center bearing on the driveshaft is old.  my second guess is that your guibo might be tapping against your shift linkage.

     

    i suspect the center bearing first because your description sounds RPM-related.  it will only get worse with time.  bring a little mirror with you and look for shiny spot on your exhaust which is typically very close to the DS in that location.

     

    i had a similar issue which i solved by replacing the center bearing on my DS.  the bearing itself was fine; it is the rubber webbing that ultimately starts to sag and weaken.

     

    use the light and mirror to see any rub spots on the guibo and related area.

  8.  I am averaging just over 30 mpg going to and from work.  My last drive from LA to Phoenix and back averaged 39 mpg.

     

    WOW!  that's the stuff car dreams are made of...

    if only i wasn't such an electronics phobe.

     

    it's a real impedance for me.

     

    i really need to overcome my resistance,  and,

    get current...

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