jerry

i've got one of those i bought from an old 02'r that i was told was 'long in the tooth'.  is your shop open to repair work?  i'd have to ship from SF bay area.

p.s. buying yours as-is would have been a much better deal than what i have in store, i suppose.

interested.  i have a set of Model 400's that i was gonna adapt something, but i'd like to see photos of what you're offering.

pm'd as well.  please confirm that you have a set available as i'm a little late to the party.

will purchase if available.

cheers

michael dubois' old car.  i miss seeing him around on the FAQ...

just so you know, ti's ceased production after '71.  they were all 6-fuse cars.  a '73 with ti carbs, is simply that....

if you are familiar with the appearance of the standard 4-speed 2002 transmission, then a true 2002 dogleg tranny should look exactly the same with the addition of an extra section approximately 3.5 to 4 inches long between the main casting and the end piece.  the clutch slave cylinder is the same configuration between the two.  if your slave cylinder appears like a 320i 5 speed tranny, then you do not have a 2002 dogleg.

do you have the elusive 3-cylinder block and crank for this set?  

yup, i know how you must feel.  i so wanted to park my rusty beat up '71 1/2 Malaga  02 on the grass next to some sparkling beauties, but alas, i couldn't break free of other pressing priorities (like home repairs).  there's always next year.  Otto (my dog) and I will have to be content parking annonymously in the parking lot.  Looking forward to Brisbane...

how much for a restored 72 tii

...just guessing from the enthusiasm of his written words, i'd say, alot...

imagine if the appraiser provided a low-ball number after all the bills were added up, how the post could have been worded.

i've got a bone stock, no optioned 1966 Ford F250 pickup truck that was formerly owned by the Stockton school district.  Other than the nameplate and a couple side markers, there's no extra frill on this truck.  not even a radio or hubcaps.  i wouldn't change a thing.

i always want to give myself a 'forehead slap' everytime i recall the time i passed on a rusted out 74tii missing the injection bits, but with an unnoticed 323i close-ratio 5 speed tranny in it.  he wanted $800 for the car, including delivery to my house; i offered $600.  he declined.

yea, it had the tii struts and brake booster and rear trailing arms....

at the time, i already had a driveway full of POS shells.

by the time i came to my senses, it was gone.

to add insult to injury, shortly after missing that deal, i reaquired a stock '75 02 which would have been a great repository for those bits...

i wouldn't be surprised if the eBay seller you identified wound up with it as that car was essentially in his 'stomping grounds'.

i guess i just 'threadjacked', big time...

Bolinas Ridge to Alpine Dam is my personal favorite, and, btw, the origin of the "ultimate driving car" sales pitch of the 70's

you Sir,

have exceptional recall....

+1 on getting a quality flare nut wrench - snap on seems to make the best though I have been using an old 7/16" MAC (7/16" is a tight 11mm) for years and it has never let me down. 

 

Most other flare nut wrenches spread like a $2 ho and will leave you feeling shame and remorse...  much like a $2 ho.

this seems like a lesson some of us have to learn, unfortunately (the wrench that is).  i too started out with a craftsman flared wrench and in return, was treated to rounded lines.  the cost of the one Snap-on wrench equaled the entire Craftsman set and it has never failed me.  looking at the difference, the Craftsman wrench has chamfered edges which lesson the contact surface.  other than this wrench, i have no issues with Craftsman tools.

at this point in the discussion concerning who took what from whom, i'm gonna have to speak up in defense of the Neanderthals, if it wasn't for our greedy ancestors who out-farmed, out-hunted our forebears, we'd all be picking berries (and fights) with lionclothes on, and not worring about mortgages, tuition, rent, employment etc...

We all know he is a dirt bag....can we stop talking about him? Kick him out of this forum write a sticky warning ppl of him and then be done. I'm tired of being reminded of him!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hey, check this out...

you have the freedom NOT to click on this post.    you couldn't resist, could you?  and now you want to preach to the rest of us.

it is a public service AND entertainment all bunched into one convenient post.  like rubber-necking on the freeway...

Forget the front passenger seat...

that rear seat is where i'd want to be if i ever took a road trip in your car.  nice work.

without photos to show the jury, i'm gonna have to offer that i have never seen entire floors on an 02 rotted out.  water collects in the low spots.  i've never seen the raised area under the seats rotted out.  i too have a rust-bucket car i've worked on and off for the past couple years and i found that i could salvage a large portion of the existing floor by removing ONLY that portion that was truely swiss cheese.  Just because you are fortunate to have obtained large sections of replacement metal does not mean you should use it.  i do know of one car that received an entire floor section from another car.  sadly, a perfectly good, rust free car was cut up just for that purpose.

it's my opinion that you lesson the risk of distortion by working in manageable sections.  i had to remove both rear sections of floor boards, but i did it one at a time.

i used rubberized caulk primarily to seal up the gap between the aluminum trim and body, thinking it would displace water and prevent condensation.  i used enough to fill any gap/cavity under the trim piece.  corrosion requires an electrolyte to proceed so the best defense is to keep those rivets encased in waterproof environment if you are concerned with electrolysis. 

another 'danger' to consider is that the carbon dioxide released attracts mosquitoes.  ask me how i know.  it's like honey to bees.

if cars could think, i'd be guessing that Pinkey's pretty bummed right now that his replacement has arrived.  i think you did well on your new car.  the PO was a regular poster on the FAQ years ago as i recall.  get a die grinder and a MIG and you're set.

with the cost of rechroming plain steel bumpers, one has to wonder why NOT to switch to stainless steel...

Bill, i am very sorry for your loss.  although i don't recall your son posting to the FAQ, i felt i knew of him through your posts.  i do recall you referring to him as Revin Evan in your sunroof swap writeup and i enjoyed the photo of him with a cigar stub in his mouth as he set a grease seal on a rear trailing arm (IIRC) in one of your other fabulous pictorial writeups.

my sincere condolences to you and your family.

the KEY to bumper refurbishment is to lower your standards.

the chrome on your bumpers is spectacular.  remove them and take a rubber mallet to them with the aid of an anvil or some such.

good as new...

and don't forget to spray some 'unterbodenshutz' on the inside to keep 'em from rusting.

Studying SCR's photo logs provided me the courage to tackle my rust repairs.  Were it not for his selfless sharing of technique i don't know if i could have done the work i attempted.

i still have a copy of his 'pigcheek' fabrication post of several years ago,... 

....just in case.  it's on my bucket-list.