jerry

that gear has spalled, which is a fatigue crack mechanism.  welding as mentioned is one possibility.  i'd grind out all traces of the spalled area first.  use a high Cobalt filler metal (stellite) or high Nickel for a little more weld crack resistance.  you'd probably want to preheat prior to weld, say 400F and let it furnace cool after weld. 

alternatively, if you could machine a clean section out, you may want to try merely silver soldering or braze a piece of tool steel, such as a lathe cutting tool blank into the carefully prepped area and then hand grind to shape.  when you're close to finish size, polish using 400grit emory cloth.   yea, lot of work, but perhaps a solution.  it's primarily in sliding contact so if you can acheive a smooth transition it should stay put. 

these are the kind of parts one typically finds in the 'Free Stuff' 5 gallon bucket, next to the miscellaneous for sale parts.

On 6/4/2016 at 8:00 AM, shermanmartinez said:

Unfortunately, if you do not have the spacers and shims that were in the trailing arms it will take some measuring to figure out what thickness of shims are needed to get the right fit.  It will also require somebody getting those parts used or new if you don't have them available.  The brake line does require a way to prevent it from spinning as was mentioned since it is not accessible from the inside of the boxed section.  The flanges of tii trailing arms were also hardened whereas those of  the carbureted 02 were not. 

sherman,  i'm not really sure what you are referring to as flanges on the trailing arms, tii or otherwise?   are you referring to the bearing bore area?  or is it the separate wheel hub axle flange?  dang, i did not know they were hardened.  gonna have to take some rockwell hardness readings to sort my stash out now.

one VERY important detail is missing from your description.  original tii trailing arms have a hex-head piece welded to the interior of the trailing arm to prevent the flexible brake line from rotating because there is no access with a wrench possible.  without such a piece you run the risk of spinning and  cursing like crazy to free them up once they seize up and they are prone to stubbornness over time.  done right, retro-fitted standard trailing arms are a sure way to ensure that the interior is all clean and not rusted through.  i've made a set up before and was fortunate to have access to a sheetmetal punch to reproduce the brake line hole to match originals.  i had to hand file the hex-head feature i described, though, but it worked. 

as for the shims, they are referring to the measurements that are depicted in the 'blue manuals' (and Haynes manual IIRC) of the wheel bearing and axle stud, including the spacer piece.  i have yet to come across a trailing arm where the measurements did not correspond with a random set of spacer, shim and bearing, but that may just be dumb luck.

a good deal comes along on eBay once in awhile.  about 2 years ago i got a pair of Alpina struts, calipers and rotors (the ones with the bulge and 'upside down strut insert') for $500, delivered to my house.  the seller posted up some ambiguous photos and i took a chance.  no one else bidded against me.  The rotors are down to 18mm from the original 20mm and a NOS set sold here on the FAQ for $1000 alone about 6 months ago.

if there is wear on the inboard bearing surface of the spindle i'd be loathe to pay 3X his initial suggested price query.  at the lower price i'd be more forgiving but as the asking price rises a buyer would be well served to ask for a close up photo of that area.

the spring perch is another area that can rust out and weaken.  that can be dealt with, but worn spindles, not so much...

 i'm almost certain that you should not tighten your suspension on jack stands but rather with the tires on the ground so that they are torqued in the running condition.  otherwise you will unnecessarily shorten the life of the rubber bushings.  i typically have my car sitting on four cinder blocks so i can get clearance to get underneath.  if you want to get really anal, put someone in the driver's seat as well.

those tend to hibernate on the bottom recesses of doors.  they're very shy and really don't like daylight.

glad you saved it.  those 76's really are solid cars.  i had one and it just felt more solid and quieter than all the other 02's i've driven.  hope you find a way to keep it in CA.

21 hours ago, Coastalcrush408 said:

 

Thanks for the "bling mechanic" comment, Ol Jerry! Since that car was totaled I swapped everything and I mean everything salvageable from it to another car. I kind of take offense to your snide remark. You said yourself "the car was mechanically sound when you sold it. you make it sound like I put a gt grant steering wheel and spinner hub caps on it and then said fuck it and intentionally drove it into a wall... 

 

The 71' helped this 69' that had been sitting for 20+ years live again. With every end there is a new beginning, Jerry. Such is life. I'm sorry I crashed the 71'. On disassembly I could see how much work you put into it. I can promise you though that, that car meant more to me than you and that having my first accident ever in that car really bummed me the fuck out... 

 

 

 

Max, i am sorry that i referred to you as a Bling mechanic.  i am guilty of pressing the 'submit' button without considering my words.  i did not intend to infer anything about your crash.  in fact, my disappointment is not with your care and feeding of this car.  you got this car from the guy i sold it to.  THAT person was all excited about getting it and talked about how he was gonna have it painted and show it off at the Brisbane show the following year.  i even gave him the paint to finish it.  when i saw it last year at Brisbane i was disappointed to see absolutely nothing other than the add-ons i referred to installed, and the trunklid stripped of paint and left to rust.  other than that, it was exactly as i left it.  so much for all the talk of 'fixing it all up and keeping it'.  i did not know that it had already changed hands at that point.

sorry for the slight.  let's move on.  when a car is sold, it is no longer my concern what happens to it.   i get that.  sometimes the unthinking side overtakes the rational and i'm guilty of being fallible. 

btw, your replacement car looks great. 

i've used rubber grommets found in the electrical section of your favorite hardware store.  having nylon or delrin bushings is overkill, i think.  nice to have, but, really?

what a pity.  if it had been a vintage alfa or porsche, there's no question that it would have been revived.  frame rails and noses can be replaced...

oh well.  easier said than done and the economics just don't add up, yet.

2 hours ago, GoFaSSter said:

Jerry,

 

I still have the car I bought from you. I am hoping to have it at Brisbane. It will all depend on my work travel schedule. Good luck on this one, I am sure it will be beautiful!

oh yes, i didn't mean to forget you.  i was tired typing and just cut it short.  you too have taken that car to the next level and returned it to its former glory.  fjord looks so much better on the squaretails.   i hated having to sell that car, particularly but i've got to whittle down my dead 02's and i'm so loathe to cut them up.  finding caretakers like you is what makes it palatable.  having a 40 year old survivor totaled within 6 months of ownership is a real disappointment.

i hope to see you this saturday.  i'll be 02-less again.  SIGH...  i'll be bringing my boxer Otto, though.  he's better looking than i am too.

i'll buy the walnut shift knob if it's still available.

...and i'll be at brisbane

thought i'd update this thread.  buying the rotisserie was the easy part.  assembling it without any instructions other than a photo of a similar looking contraption i found on the internet, i thought, would be the most difficult/time-consuming part.  wrong!

it took me a better part of a day to sort it all out and roughly assemble it.  that was the easy part.  figuring out how to attach my 02 to it took more thought and effort.  since i have a roundie, the attachment points are limited, and a considerable distance from the rear end.  i chose to mount the rear to the two differential mounting points using a custom-made bar.  i was lucky to have an ample supply of structural tubing at my disposal that i salvaged a couple years ago.  i copied the bolted plate system of the rotisserie to allow for adjustment as necessary.  the front was a little more straightforward with attachment at the front subframe mounting points.

my initial plan was to do a quickie suspension rehab in time to take this car to Brisbane next week.  one thing lead to another, and well, here i am. 

i think i'm gonna deal with a repaint and bodywork this time around.  i sold my last 02 after doing all the mechanical and rust repairs, but never got around to painting it.  i sold it for what i think was a VERY favorable price to the buyer for the amount of work and condition it was in.  the 2nd owner after me totaled it within 6 months of ownership.  bummer.  the guy was a Bling mechanic only, sticking shiny bits on it primarily before totalling it.  i don't want that to happen to this car.  this is a sister car to one i restored about 10 years ago and learned a lot on that effort.  the owner of that car took it to the next level and still has it as far as i know down in L.A.  so, my motivation was to USE this rotisserie and to do that, i figured i'd start with a relatively straight car. 

i present to the 02FAQ, 2575914 as it appears today.  i think i'll start another blog as i did for its sister 2576240, 10 years ago (i was one of the first project blogs when that section was added to the FAQ).

3 hours ago, supertoasty02 said:

Do these fit in a 1974 2002. Base model ??

yes

i'll offer 50.00 shipped to CA as long as you are certain it's not just a stock swaybar.

i don't quite remember what the stock diameter is, but this appears to be slightly thicker.  IIRC, Suspension Technique fronts are 22mm.

i'll offer $80, shipped to CA...

4 hours ago, worzella said:

.

.

of the 6 or 7 front subframes i've sandblasted and repainted, all of the cracks initiated lower down the engine mount.  if you look closely at the edge of the mount shown in the photo you will notice that the edge of the mount has relatively sharp edges from the original stamping operation.  i always take a file and dress the edges slightly to give about a 0.010in chamfer or less.  if you're spending more than a minute or so, you're doing too much filing.  the current subframe i'm working on is the only one i've ever seen without a crack.  it received a minor dressing and a welded piece making a sort of triangular section to reinforce the aft edge (where my cracks typically originated).  i would assume the piece you are showing is heat treated for added strength, otherwise i don't think it would be too effective.

i'll play...

yes

wow, that video makes it look really easy.  judging from that i ought to be able to complete a total rebuild in about a weekend or two...

if only,

post  up photos of your spare tire well.  with a fair bit of effort (to make it appear seamless) it is much easier in my opinion to repair rather than replace.  i've done both.

i'm betting that i'm not the only one who was hoping that you were offering an original Golde sunroof wind deflector for $50, but realistically, had it been so, i was already too late...

comment removed as unwarranted and unnecessary.

220 grit alumina is a nice media to quickly cut through rust and leave a nice surface texture for paint to adhere.  No.13 glass beads is more expensive and is better suited for components that will receive paint as it leaves a somewhat polished surface.  sometimes you can start with 220 and finish up with No.13 if you are so inclined.  you'd be surprised at how resistant tarry oily surface crud is resistant to abrasive blasting.  clean the oil and grease off before blasting.  i'd use a wire wheel to remove the undercoating if you must.  otherwise, just clean it and only expose areas of obvious rust.

btw, never use sand.  silica is bad for lungs...