Santawillis

Greetings! I would like to see how difficult the process of registering a vehicle is in the state of Vermont. Currently, my car does not possess a title, as it was lost by a previous owner who is no longer around. I am planning to relocate in the upcoming months, and registering a vehicle without a valid title can be challenging in my current state of residence, Illinois, if you move. Coincidentally, I am getting married in Vermont within a few weeks. I am considering the possibility of personally registering my 2002 car there during my visit. Could anyone provide information on how this might impact the registration process? Additionally, I have aspirations of eventually moving to Vermont, so I am keeping my fingers crossed for a smooth transition. Thank you in advance for any assistance or guidance you can provide.

I also shared the wrong link...this is post carb rebuilt the above video was pre-carb rebuild. Now that I am looking at it not much of a difference. Shared album - Rafael - Google Photos PHOTOS.APP.GOO.GL

@zinz that is a great reference point! Thank you guys for the pointers. @visionaut new mounts! And @popovm I did check vacumn and everything seems to be still plugged. I will check valves and timing! It could also still be my carb, I am planning on upgrading to 45s in the near future but plenty of work to do before that

Here is a link! Shared album - Rafael - Google Photos PHOTOS.APP.GOO.GL

@tech71weird! Not coming out on my side off and on I apologize! Let me see if I can get a sharable link.

I do have an exhaust leak! Working on getting it sorted

Hello, I lack exposure to idling 2002s, although YouTube is a treasure trove you can never tell what is considered "normal". How is my idle? I just rebuilt my carb, currently car is sitting a bit below 1000 rpm. Let me know your thoughts! 20230505_174334.mp4

Many thanks guys as always, this community is incredible! I will keep an eye on it as temps begin to climb

Happy Sunday and Holidays to all! Weather is finally starting to get up in temps here in Illinois (70s) and I picked up a new coolant temperature sensor (FAE 62110788115 from FCP Euro) the temps are amazingly stable, right in the middle of the gauge and sometimes even below after a bit of warming up and 15 minutes of driving (I am grounded to my cul-de-sac since the car is yet to be registered), yet the hose below the thermostat housing seems cooler than the hose on top of the thermostat housing which is a sign of the thermostat not opening. But the temperatures seem fine! I am confused, am I overheating and not noticing? Am I being incredibly OCD? Hoses are pressurized and the radiator is brand new Hi-Efficiency from BulntTech. Attached photo is on engine shutoff so pardon the lights.

Vermont! Register your car in Vermont, that is what I am planning on doing this summer so I can get plates. Then you can transfer to your state later.

Okay! Went for another drive today after 5 days of tinkering, it was GREAT and I will explain the absolute goose chase I went down. First - Brake issues got me to remove the master and the small peg at the end of the booster, I found that when I install the master I have to push the piston for it to sit flush with the booster, I found out that it is not ideal and was probably causing my master to always have pressure when is not desired. I ground the peg so it was not engaging the master when I installed it( I will probably need a new booster but for now this will suffice my itch to drive this thing!). while I was at it popped every single piston at the caliper out and silicone greased every single one. I got fresh pads because the other ones were toast (literal toast very burnt). I lubricated every point that the brake pedal is associated with and today no sticking! I did find two further issues, my thermostat does not seem to be opening up, not sure if this is an issue with the thermostat but a new one will probably be ordered just in case. I don't think the car was overheating, my guess is it would be more apparent, I have brand new hoses and a new radiator to boot. The second new issue is that I need to pull the brake pedal up after depressing it, I did replace the return spring with a rather weak one so I probably need to get a better one. The stronger return spring "returned" onto my face causing a rather nice bruise, thank god I have 2 months until my wedding! Second - I was running the incorrect coil, car came with both a Bosch "black" and a "blue" and it took me chasing the ignition wire to see if the previous owner removed the resistor, and they did. So a new 3ohm flamethrower and she is running very very smoothly vs the "blue"!!! I definitely need to rebuild the ratty 32/36 that is on there now which will further help. All in all, I was able to start from a stop in second gear, I have no hesitation from the engine and I was left with a big old dumb smile on my face! On to the next thing, thank you, EVERYONE! @popovm, @dlefebvre02, @John76(my savior), @Mike Self, @Mark92131, @2002iii @Dudelandand @Son of Marty for getting another 02 back on the road!

This post actually explains the coil situation the best so I am bringing it back from dead. My original California 76' has the .9Ohm resistor and I replaced the original dead coil (not sure why it was dead) with an autoparts store 1.5 Ohm coil, its been running well enough. My question is, is running a 1.5 ohm coil when the original black coil is .9ohm really make a considerable difference? Car is idling fine? Am I running a total resistance of 3.3ohms? .9 from resistor, ,9 from cable and 1.5 from coil? What am I missing here? This whole coil discussion seems endless! HELP! @John76 is my usual savior!

@popovmthat is 100% the same symptoms I am experiencing now! I went ahead and applied a copious amount of silicone lubricant all over the brake linkages and went for a wet drive. At first, things were great again but alas my optimism was short-lived. I think I may just completely start over in terms of brakes, first checking for sticking pistons on the front calipers and disassembling from there on. I may remove the booster and get a better look at the brake pedal assembly and see if I can narrow down what is going on. The good thing is the car, engine-wise, is great, one wheel burn outs( not really but the wet pavement sure assisted) and great shifting. Once I get this figured out I think I will have a really fun car that I will enjoy for many many years

Alright, I am still stumped. Took the 2002 for a quick drive and at first, it went GREAT! Started from 2nd gear with no problem and had plenty of pep and was a blast! But then 10 minutes into it felt lethargic and had smoking front brakes - It would not roll down a hill with the car fully in neutral. I did try to "bed" the brakes with some pretty good stops, which seemed to cause the problem to worsen. Before the drive, I blend all 4 corners once again thoroughly, and checked for caliper operation and it seemed to be working fine. I am now convinced something is going on with either my front calipers or master (mind you this is a brand new ATE master). Fuel pump was functioning really well and the fuel lines seem to be doing okay as well, probably a future replacement as I don't like fire very much but they are not the source of the problem. Plugging the vacuum leaks actually thoroughly improved the experience! My current plan is to yank the front pads and check if they were installed correctly, but it is extremely bizarre that the front brakes seem to be getting worse the more I drive the car.

@dlefebvre02 Absolutely! I need to crank the windows when driving it because of how many fumes run into the cabin, makes the engine sound likea bit of a fart as well. I am hoping to soon acquire a header to replace the current manifold as well as dual Weber 45 152s to help on both ends of the spectrum but this is after I fix the major issues currently going on

@John76 - Based on the diagram you suggested there are a few ways to "interpret" how to vacumn line to the carborator from the advance pod can be routed, would you suggest I route it directly to the Carb or throught the black valve? I guess I can hook it up both ways and find out but wanted to see if you had any suggestions I market it up based on what was present and removed.

Update number 3 - I am sorry for so many and since rain is coming for the next few days this will be the last until the weekend. @Son of MartyThe brake master is hooked up correctly, and the rear brake line is connected to the brass nut BUT I had my lovely fiance hit the brakes while I spun the front wheels, after she applied the brakes it became EASIER to turn the wheel, and then as I turned it more it became harder until it was pretty tough. We repeated this on both front wheels and they both had the same diagnosis. I am not sure if this means the caliper is sticking, not sure what else it could be. @Mike Self (1) remove the cap atop the pump and clean the filter screen underneath - There was some debris in the screen of the pump and the cover, I cleaned that out, I may want to replace the filter since it has been more than likely gathering debris as well, I have a spare one somewhere. (2) disconnect the outlet side of the pump and crank the engine to see how much gas the pump squirts into a jar--or remove the pump altogether and do this manually (the former is much easier). - This will be the next step once I have a jug to get this going. I would also check the operation of your ignition. The advance pod on your distributor should be connected to the vacuum advance port above the base of your Weber carb facing the passenger fender. - Indeed it is connected to the carb, but there are two vacuum ports on the carb itself, one higher than the other, might switch the two to see if I get any improvements. I also moved the filter from the hot surface of the engine so no problems should arise! @2002iii I think part of my problem is a low idle and it did not have a chance to warm up, but slow and steady Anywho, any suggestions on the brakes is greatly appreciated as I continue to tackle the issues, the brakes would explain the car being sluggish.

@John76 I will make sure the lines are connected as follows! That will be the first thing I do today after work. Thank you again for your diagrams they have been extremely helpful. @Mike Self Will be giving this a shot today after work, @2002iii I have also picked up a gravity feeder so I can test if the fuel lines are indeed the issue, the more I think about it the more likely it is that those lines are on their way out but that shouldnt been too bad to replace, I believe Blunttech has fresh lines at a quite affortable price, but first lets see if that is the root cause! Do you guys think the engine is running o.k from the video posted? Rafael

Alright, a bit of an update as I had a free hour to work on the car and some time to head to the autozonneeee Replaced the fuel hose from the sender to the plastic line and moved the filter before the pump and replaced all of the rubber hoses there while I was at it, the fuel filter fills well with fuel but after it runs for a bit the fuel reduces level drastically. I have attached the video, please don't mind the brake clean on the manifold as I was trying to make it a bit more presentable lol! @John76 and @Mark92131- There is a vacuum pod that has a vacuum line straight to the carb, I was able to take a few extra pictures post-plugging some of the vac leaks. I think its time in San Diego was in the early days of its life, so around 1976 and a bit after, and at the time it would have been red Fuel flows cleanly from the sender to the filter so my best guess is a bad pump unless the level in the filter is normal. @Mike Self I did try from a level surface to move in 4th and it indeed stalled immediately, no clutch in my future hooray! @Son of Marty - The brake master does indeed look to be hooked up incorrectly, the line currently on the brass coupling is heading to the front passenger calipers, I am guessing they are flip-flopped? Anywho, the car still runs a bit rough but I did see a slight improvement from before by plugging the vacuum leaks, or at least what I believe are leaks, I still have to trace some of those down. The diagram was incredibly helpful @John76, thank you! So depending on the verdict a new fuel pump is incoming! I may have missed some suggestions above and I apologize if I I have 20230320_182612.mp4

@Mark92131 The fuel fitler was filling about 1/3 of the way if not a bit less and the car seemed to be running stronger, now its maybe 1/8th of the way and sometimes just fumes (surprised its running honestly) so I am guessing that is too little gas to get the car running well at speed?

@Son of Marty good call! In the brake refresh I may have swapped lines around, I will double check!

@John76 you are a savior, these are fantastic and will make things a lot easier today when I am doing my exploratory mission. I am glad this community is so great! Ill post back my findings.

@John76 Do you have any diagrams handy on what I need to plug where vacumn wise? If this is a "use your search skills" I will proceed accordingly but you seem like you have a lot of knowledge that I may need! Sounds like I have a bit of a frankenstein.... Vacumn is not my area of expertise, neither is electronics but it seems like I need to get up to speed rather quickly.