its55

8 hours ago, AmazonGreen said:

A new engine ground strap fixed my problem. Switched out sender for good measure.

Thanks.  I had already done that.  It was working fine until suddenly it didn't this weekend.

7 hours ago, Hans said:

Is that 50 bucks for one round cabl with no pigtail? 

It includes the pigtail, see the little note "61121350305 Negative Battery Cable is Ref No. 06 in the diagram below".  Still not cheap.

As noted in another thread, working on the dang temp gauge issue again after fixing it by adding the various grounds and checking out the gauge cluster.  For some reason it began pegging hot again.  Have a new temp sensor getting delivered today so hopefully that solves it.  I'll also be bleeding brakes this weekened.

1 hour ago, hollowridge said:

@its55 Unfortunately I do not have this style.

 

But here is the info for the key you need.

H1 Silca Key Blank

WWW.TRADE-KEYS.CO.UK

---

Silca Reference H1 For HK Cutting Codes - Dimensions Blade length (G): 17.100mm (0.673in)Blade width (H): 6.000mm (0.236in) Category Cylinder lockVehicles Use CARSCYLINDERSPADLOCKS 20 MMPETROL CAPS Secondary

 

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Well, let me add to this thread.  I DID have my temperature gauge working after it was pegged hot.  I added the instrument cluster ground and an additional engine ground (negative battery cable to driver side of engine compartment).  I had earlier checked out the temp gauge as noted above, and had performed the hot water / ohmmeter test on the temp sensor.  One of the above actions apparently corrected the problem, and all was fine for a few weeks and I have not driven the car at all.  Last weekend I had the motor running for a short while and the gauge was working fine.  Now, suddenly, its pegged again (while car is off, engine cold).  Any ideas?  I have ordered a new temp sensor...?

is that the original factory attachment point?

If anyone has a pic handy or can provide one, can you show me the proper/original location of the engine grounding strap(s) for a 1973 or earlier 2002?  Mine is a 1972.  More specifically, I'm asking where exactly should the smaller strap coming off the larger negative cable attach to the body (see pic at the below link).  Thanks!

I need to get a pipe for my tool box

A pricey option…. 

BMW 2002 3.0cs Front Seat Headrest Chrome Cover - rogerstii

WWW.ROGERSTII.COM

---

BMW 2002 3.0cs Front Headrest Chrome Cover

On 3/12/2022 at 9:51 AM, hollowridge said:

Yes I have the two styles still. Let me know which one you need, how many and send me a PM.

 

@its55 I think I might have a couple of these I need to check.

 

@71bmr02 A locksmith can usually get it done if the are experienced. Also especially on the older ones there are only a few key code options from my findings. But that would require testing to see which one fits yours. Your style is the newest one and is available new for $50. You might be better off selling yours used without a key and buying a new one instead of paying a locksmith to figure it out. 

 

For those looking for something unique. This is probably one of my favorite locking caps. I have one on my touring and love it.

 

Tank Cap BMW 1600 2000 2002 Karmann 1600 GAS CAP BMW 1600 2000 2002 Karmann

WWW.EBAY.COM

---

Ein neuer Tankdeckel von FAAB - abschließbar. classic parts from wum-autoteile. Karmann 1600, 2000 Tii, 1602, 1600 Touring, 2000 Touring, 2002 Cabriolet. new locking gas cap - BMW 1600 2 Touring, 1600 4 Touring, 2002 Ti, 2000 Tii Touring, 2002 Tii, 2002 Automatic .

 

Bump for follow-up ... any update regarding having a key blank for my cap?  Thanks.

Hello, are these complete sets, front and rear carpet?

I'd like to buy a used window regulator in good working order for my '72 2002, passenger side.

A little garage improvement today...mounted pegboard and a TV (w/ Apple TV) over the new workbench.  The quality of work and productivity will be greatly improved!

18 hours ago, hollowridge said:

 

 

@its55 I think I might have a couple of these I need to check.

 

 

 

Thanks, I appreciate it!

On 2/26/2018 at 4:48 PM, hellayego said:

I have a locked keyless gas cap from a '67 1600, any way you can help me determine which key might work? I'd be interested in buying multiples to test which works if that's an option.

Thanks!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is similar (a '72 2002) to but the reverse of yours.  I'd also like to get a blank to fit mine if the seller can help.

6 hours ago, visionaut said:

At least we can still get gas at Taco Bell for only $1.39…

 

ba-da-bum

Not for long...  ?

24 minutes ago, Eissmann said:

Noticed some loose bolts while under the rear end to replace the gasket on the differential cover. Looks l  like  I need to use some loctite and tighten these. 

FYI also in case you need it - 

Cleaning up that hard-to-get-to driver side of the engine compartment...there's a little bit of the typical surface rust in there to tend to...

8 hours ago, 72pdx02 said:

A few weekends ago I replaced my steering box with a rebuilt one I got from 2002ad. They have always been quick to reply to my emails in the past and I was surprised with how quick the steering box arrived. My old one had a bad dead spot when making right turns about 10 deg from center and also leaked really bad. I also replaced my engine mounts since they looked original. 

I've emailed 2002AD  from their website and do not get replies.  Do you have an email address you can provide?

Thanks.

14 hours ago, Yojedi8802 said:

I usually consider RealOEM.com my bible when it comes to identifying parts, assembly and reconstruction details for classic BMW restoration projects.  As a matter of fact I relied heavily on it to complete my 5-year '87 535is ground-up resto.  However it seems otherwise for my current 72 roundie project.  I am faced with some bodywork rust issues in typical spots that likely many of you had dealt with.  However one particular area I need details on (where firewall, wheel well and front floor panel meet)  so far I've not found any information available on RealOEM.com.  Those sections seem completely missing.    

 

Am I missing something or do you guys also concur with my observation?  I've also tried Wallothnesh and several other classic BMW retail sites with no luck.   Are there more resources out there?

 

Jerry

 

I don't know the answer but maybe if you hunt around YouTube you might see something you need - one example - 

Also I have a '72 Roundie, if you would like any pictures of certain areas let me know.  Mines all together so I would not be able to take pics of any "hidden" stuff.

Cancel culture is a terrible idea regardless of what it involves.  People should have the freedom to decide for themselves what they want to see or buy.  It was much better to be oil independent like we were not so long ago.

Got the interior (under dash) back together.  Removed the driver side grille to access / remove the battery tray.  Now I could much better access the area under it and between it and the firewall along the top of the subframe.  Needs a good cleaning in there, which I started.  Checked the small filter that's in the weber.  Good thing I did, whoever installed it did it incorrectly as it was crushed / twisted.  Ordered a new one.

On 3/4/2022 at 6:31 PM, chargin said:

A used one could be ok but it’s basically a 50 yr old spring that could snap at any time even if the rivet is ok, this was one of the jobs I really disliked, taking everything apart and then adjusting the window height and dwell angle PITA 

 

but that’s just me 

Your point is well taken.  I'll probably end up going new.  2002AD never responded so I'm not sure what's up there.

On 3/4/2022 at 5:23 AM, its55 said:

 

Update - well, the wiper switch is "working" but only if I press on the rocker switch more firmly and hold it in place, i.e., it won't make the contact on its own.  I suspect that the little contacts in there are dirty / corroded and its very difficult to access.  I've tried contact cleaner but so far that's not helping.  I'll play with some other ideas.

 

 

WIPERS FIXED!!  Kept working at it, trying different solutions.  In the end result I used a slightly bent paper clip end to get behind the rocker to the contact and did some scraping in there.  After that, pushed the rocker in an the contact was working!  However - when I reassemble the switch and through a series of tries, I realized that the white tab (which is part of the end cap / spring / tab assembly, see pic) was simply not pushing the rocker in far enough. I assume this is due to wear over the years. I tried different things to cause it to be closer when pushed (such as the wire you see in the pic) but ultimately decided to simply sand the cap down a bit so everything fit tighter.  After several attempts as I did not want to over-do it, it finally works and the wipers are now operative.  Whew!  At this time, all electrical stuff is working on the car.

I emailed 2002AD about their used ones with a question but they have not responded after about a week I guess I’ll try again. I am aware of the Ireland ones, but hope to save some money!