Pdxguy

34 minutes ago, NYNick said:

Figure out how much you think you're going to spend, or want to spend fixing up this car or any other 2002 you buy. Double that budget number and add it to the purchase price. Then go scour the market for 6 months to see what you can buy for that money.

 

Think I'm kidding? Nope. It's reality and will save you hundreds of hours.

N of one but that has been my experience

About $30k

Looking at switching gears from my current "Pile O' Parts Project" to purchasing a drivable car. Don't mind body/paint not being perfect, blemishes are fine. Interested in a 2002 that has been modified for handling/braking/power but can still be used for routine driving. 

Standard transmission, prefer 5 speed.

Whatcha got?

Thanks,

Dennis

PM sent

I have a set of earlier door cards if interested

Dennis

PM'd regarding a diff and passenger side saddle door card

2 hours ago, jk16vturbo said:

For the price, did you get a dyno sheet with it?  

Alas, no. (Insert inappropriate joke here about what else should be included for the price  )

Dennis

Bump for price change

Happy Thursday,

Dennis

I have a complete Metric Mechanic drivetrain with Korman carb set up using Hal Boyles carb linkage system

2200 rally engine

     Using 1978 block for A/C pulley attachments

     318I head

80amp alternator and high torque starter

Weber 40/40 DCOE set up by Korman

     Weber DCOE carbs

     Intake manifold

     Water neck

     soft mounts

     Hose/clamps

     K&N filters

     Gaskets/drain plugs

     fuel filter

     Hal Boyles Ultimate carb linkage system

123Ignition with modified shaft

Getrag 240 4 speed OD transmission

Stahl Header/muffler

Metric Mechanic build time is at least six months, likely closer to a year. This can be shipped in the next two weeks. 

The price of the 2200 Rally Engine has increased $2000 since I purchased it. It has never been installed, sitting on crates and in boxes. 

Below are the specs for the engine, pulled from Metric Mechanic

MM 2200 Rally M10 engine

The MM 2200 Rally engine is a very reliable 160hp street/track engine that is modernized with many mechanical improvements. This is general description of the engine.

Displacement 

• 2130cc = bore 92mm x stroke 80mm
• Compression Ratio 10.0:1

Head

• Machine ported for a 22% flow increase over stock
• MM’s patented Surface Turbulence looks like concentric grooving. It is done to the valves and combustion chamber walls. This increases fuel economy, makes for a cleaner running engine and reduces detonation to prevent head cracking. 
• New inspected rocker arms
• MM Sport/Rally cam is 290° duration with 10.75mm lift. This cam produces a broad power band and a smooth idle when used with a Weber 38 DGES carburetor.
• MM special dual valve springs prevent valve bounce at high rpm by increasing the seat pressure and prevent valve train wear & rocker arm breakage by lowering the nose pressure.
• Manganese bronze valve guides.

Block

• MM forged 92mm piston is very light but strong at 300g (stock piston is 500g). 
• Taper wall piston pin weighs 89g vs 135g stock.
• Moly 1.2mm Compression ring and 3 piece oil rings, for long life and low Oil consumption.
• Rod is a light weight 525g “H” beam design, that is 143mm long (8mm longer than stock).
• Rod and Main bearing are dry film Moly coated.
• New timing chain, oil pump chain, guide, and tensioner rail.
• MM rebuilt and blueprinted oil pump with bronze bore for the pressure relief valve.
• Oil pan baffle has a horizontal baffle to prevent oil starvation under hard cornering.

All clearances in the engine are measured down to .0001” or .01mm and recorded. The engine is fully blue printed.

I understand it is a monster of a price. If you are the type of person who can rebuild an engine yourself, this likely isn't for you. (I wish I was). 

Thanks for looking,

Dennis

12 hours ago, Dugan27 said:

Cut and stitched up a leather brake handle cover. And a bit of the direction I'm heading with the floormats, etc. 

 

Please keep in mind I have never cut and sewn leather before in my life. Burnishing was so so. 

Looks great!

5 hours ago, visionaut said:

Heretic. Burn him. He's a witch.

1 hour ago, davidhayes said:

I also have the early bumper brackets (front and rear) and all four overriders from the 1970 Agave car. The overriders have seen better days (a broken or stripped bolt or two and worn out rubber), but it could all be useful to someone. Let me know if there is any interest in them. The bumpers aren't available as I installed them on my 76.

PM'd you regarding the early bumper brackets

On 9/9/2022 at 10:57 AM, Rakearch said:

 

 

 

 

I did remove the US side markers and converted the wiring from USA to Euro as I found original old stock harnesses so IM not a total Purest.  I also made the 5-spead swap. 

Off topic resurrection to an old thread. When you converted from a US wire harness to Euro, what were the changes/adjustments you needed to make? I inadvertently purchased a new harness only to realize it was for a 1974 Euro 2002 and I have a 69 2002. 

Thanks,

Dennis

PM'd

4 hours ago, John76 said:

OCD is an incurable disease.

Technically, it should be CDO, alphabetical. 

Welcome!

Finally finished rehabbing my heater box, and with 2 or 3 bolts to tighten down managed to drop it. Broke off a corner of the top piece. There is about 5mm of open space communicating with the interior of the box. I can fix it, wondering if I can get away with leaving it as is. The firm closed cell foam that goes between the top and back piece can cover the gap with the lighter foam strip that goes around the front top piece would be over the top of that as well.

Thanks,

Dennis

Looking for the later heater control as noted in the pictures below. Also looking for a wire harness for the same. 

3 hours ago, its55 said:

 

 

I'd like to get this done.  Do you have a high resolution file that you can post?

 

 

 

 

I took a printed binder to the printer and he copied it off of the page to enlarge it. I can take it back to him to do one for you if you like. Hit me up if you would like to pursue this.

Dennis

Had an electrical diagram blown up. Printer ended up making them larger than asked, but it sure is easy to read…from space. Won’t need a magnifying glass now!

Elec diagrams.HEIC

Thanks all for the info, as always, this forum is a wealth of info

Dennis

1 hour ago, jgerock said:

Pics of the heater box deflectors removed from my 1971 Agave 2002 vin 2572558.

 

Perhaps earlier cars didn’t get them because of the cardboard flaps on the shorty center console.

Don't suppose you still have the deflectors and want to sell them?

Couple of questions about the heater box.

1. My heater box is missing the curved vents circled below. Is it available, and/or needed? Pictures borrowed from another site.

2. The two holes in the plastic where the metal tab attaches in the picture below on my box are not open. There is a slight recession where the holes should be, but it doesn't go all the way through. Did someone repair it in the past and cover the holes partially? I can drill it out easily enough, want to make sure I need to. 

Thanks,

Dennis

I will take it if available.

Thanks,

Dennis

Looking for a Clardy AC, face plate, side panels, evaporator and blower. If you have the other components that would be great, but starting with the hardest to source pieces. 

Thanks,

Dennis