Naseem Jarjoura

Im interested in this. Ill PM  you

I thought the bushings would compress yes. However once I put them in i quickly departed from that idea. I don’t think it’s going to compress them enough, if at alI. was about to return them and order the ones that come with the steel sleeves but the fellow thats selling them closed shop until Jan 7th.

I want to finish the project and reassemble every thing so I decided to epoxy the bushings in place. Those overpriced sad examples of a bushing are not going anywhere.

? lol

i know it sounds like stupid question but I have same ones for my 14” rims and they measure 11” across. 

What are they across? 11 inches?

I’ve done this many times and this time I’m second guessing myself. Which way Is correct when attaching fork to throw out bearing? Pic 1 or 2?

I Have the 6 fuse box. I pride myself in having only 6. It’s laughable. 

I used volvo ones in mine. They are actually better made than the BMW ones. Metal parts rather than plastic.

thats a great price. Where were you last year.

The last one I managed to press the entire thing out without using hacksaw on that outer steel sleeve. The new trailing arm bushings just pop right in with no effort. They get compacted once you torque them in to the subframe.

Cut a notch out and then was able

to press it out. Here is what it looks like.

And a pic of the new bushing. 

YSo i just received the new bushings from Germany. The replacement bushings are rubber with the steel insert. The original ones as some of you may know have an outer steel sleeve that’s pressed into the trailing arm. This steel sleeve does not want to come out when I put it on the press. In fact when using the press to remove these bushings you run the risk of bending the trailing arm. Not good. I can get the bushings out with heat and press. Does anyone have any experience with the removal of steel sleeve? I’m going to try and saw a notch out and then possibly I’ll be able to knock it out?

Interesting. Thank you

I don’t know the answer to your question but I was just checking out the site. Beautiful seats! What style did you go with? 

Good to know thanks Chris. I’ve had this piece here since I bought the car many years ago but could never figure out where it would possibly go. Not even for this car I don’t think. Does it look familiar to anyone?

I have a sunroof on mine. It’s the same as the 2002. Number one rule - never Allow anyone to operate the sunroof. I replaced absolutely everything including  both sunroof wires. The ones made for the 2000 are about $350 per side hence why you don’t let anyone touch the crank. I picked up a pair of wires out of an old Volvo for $350 and they are actually better made. They use steel rather than plastic components. 

I’m ok with using generic seals rather than having no seals. I happen to have both sides door seals NOS that came with NOS front fenders i bought a few years back. I may never install the fenders because I’ll probably never paint this car. I’m all about wrapping now as I can have fun with changing the look of the car when ever it pleases me. I have black chrome strip on it now that’s coming off soon. I’m going to wrap the entire car In blue Chrome for the summer.  Get your sun glasses on.

thanks for the image duggi. I’ll see what i can find because that beat up seal bothers me 

On a side note. You may notice that the reverse gear Is chewed up a bit when you open the box up. I think that’s pretty common from people grinding into reverse over the years. If you come across a reverse gear hang on to it because chances are it needs replacing.

I’ll send you pics of the internal workings when I get home.

In retro spec i could of swapped out the selector rod from the 66 and put it into the 72. It’s not that difficult and if you plan on changing all the seals / gaskets it’s the best way to go. I’m not sure what I’m going to do with the 66 gearbox now that I have it apart. I may use the housing as a plant pot and make a display piece out of the gears with an electric motor attachment to rotate the gears. Either that or I will try my hand at rebuilding it one day. Doubtful though. Right now I’m replacing the door seals that I’ve been sitting on for last couple years. Wow they go on so beautifully. Use only the 3m weather stripping adhesive for that job.

Yes I’m swapping out the 66 gearbox for  a 72 gearbox. I had to build a relationship with each gear in order not to grind gears. The car is a blast to drive but the gear shifting took the fun out of it at times. I had to shorten the gear selector rod to compensate for the difference in length of the rod coming out of the gearbox. Much longer in the 72 vs 66. Plus side is I have an extremely short throw now. Too short therefore i am experimenting with different length connectors as seen in photo. 

I’m wondering if anyone can tell me what i can use as a replacement rubber seal here. Picture attached.

thanks

N

Thought you might like this Duggi. I’m swapping out the original 66 gearbox for 72 unit.  I’ll finally have the hole to look through to view the timing marks. However, I found myself curious about the aluminium flywheel so I purchased one from IE. Well turns out there ate no timing marks on their flywheels. I repurposed some gemstones as my markers. Ruby and Diamond markers.

Having a BMW as a hobby car has cost a many their marriage. What better way to repurpose that wedding ring when they toss it at you as they walk out the door.

Hahah .. i actually do the decorating in the house. The light fixture is in the garage where I have a living room set up in front of my car. I’m pretty sire my car was built in Jan 1967. A lot of the parts are stamped 66. I was under the impression my long neck is the 4.11 but I don’t know where I got that info from. 

I like to repurpose things so I use old bmw parts As handles on my garage cupboards.

I’m Yes I have the long neck and the early half shafts. I have a spare long neck as well with 3.1 ratio and I think the original one that’s in the car is 4.1. I’m making up the last digit here so go easy. I kept the original front subframe as well thus forcing me to pay stupid money for the left motor mount. I never had a weight attached to the motor mount? Sounds odd. 

Ive attached pics of the Parts we are referring to. The BMW light fixture is a prototype version 1.0

 Grill is for 1500,1800 or 2002 It does fit on my 2000tilux but I went with the narrower version. Paid 350$ for this one originally. I could keep it and use it as a back up for my 2000tilux as they are getting harder to find in this condition but could also use the $ for other projects. I can send pics of it on the 2000 by request.

21 hours ago, JWT said:

Thank you but the JB weld is not something I trust for that piece.  

I would feel the same way had I I used the putty. I use the 2 part epoxy and can’t believe how strong it is. I have 3 of them and I used the epoxy to hold them into place whilst utilizing the existing hole. 

Very nice. We will have similar setups. Do you have these iron blocks on the subframe behind the bushings? I’m guessing they are for weight balance? Other side is bigger.