Naseem Jarjoura

Early style 6 bolt crank shaft with pressure plate and flywheel. Plus 6 bolt bearing housing. 

Crank has been polished and it's ready for install standard size bearings.

$100 for the entire lot plus shipping.
 

2 hours ago, MoBrighta said:

Maybe you are missing something, I don't know.

 

Who is selling it for $75? Does that $75 price include shipping to you, or is the actual delivered cost closer to $90?  ((found it: $77.29, $93.79 delivered - from Australia, delivery date unknown... Mo))

 

How many do they have on hand?  I need at least 30 (so far, the number is still growing).

 

Will they wire it for your exact car model, without any damage to the wiring harness?  (I will do this)

 

Are you offering to buy these, and then do the custom wiring and distribution to everyone in this group buy? (I will do this - and I could use your help)

I am also offering this group buy for the E3 / E9 coupe and sedan models, three, five and six series cars, even seven series owners can take advantage of this group buy.  Can you help by wiring them up for simple 'plug and play' installation in those BMWs, as well as 2002 round and square tail cars? 

 

If you would like to help, send me a private message, I will be grateful - even if it is just information!  If it proves useful, I will be glad to find a better deal for the group with your help.

 

I look forward to hearing from you, Naseem! 

 

pull up the bus because Paul posted this

https://www.ozautoelectrics.com/hella-matrix-led-high-level-brake-lamp-sedan.html

i am missing a few links in my timing chain so I must be missing something.

I'm looking to pick up three 1960 700's 

one of them is a coup and the other two are not. My vision is to convert all three of these cars into electric vehicles. Has anyone done a conversion on one of these? I think I'll stick with a 45hp electric motor for 

the sedans but for the coupe Im going to go bigger and  build

it with my daughter. I Don't want to keep a single thing mechanical original. I will definitely be focusing on incorporating more safety features before I let one out the door. 

 

I'm  Doing my research into what EV kits would be suitable as it will be used as a daily city driver. Great EV for a student or anyone that wants EV with a classic twist. I'm not sure how much an E version 700 could possibly sell for. I'm thinking somewhere in the 25-35k rang?? Canadian dollars. What do you think?

Oops, they look like they would work for my application.  I'm not familiar with this part obviously. Sorry Rick.  Was thinking it was an adjustable selector rod. 

Am I missing something here? 90$ Through the group buy but if I just order online it's 75$

I could of used one of these a couple weeks back when I put a new 4 speed in the car. The selector rod coming out of the gearbox was longer in the 72 than in the 66. So I shortening the linkage. I ended up shortening it too much and brace yourself for this. I used a couple metal pipe fittings to extend the linkage. Worked ok and I had super short shift action for a while until the pin holding it together popped out while I was driving.
 

I like what You have made here and it looks like the length is adjustable. I'll try and pop by and say hello next week and maybe pick one of these up. 

I’ll Take the heater core and the heat shield 

I spent the last couple days trouble shooting power issues in the 2000ti. The red charge light came on and would stay on solid red. I opened up the alternator checked and cleaned brushes. Replaced some wires and tested power regulator. Everything checked out ok and Was in working order. So why is my battery dying on me and why is it not charging?  I replaced the battery, still same problem. I decided to replace the alternator  and order a new power regulator. I figured it must be the alternator. The multi meter I own is pretty useless making my tests unreliable. I punched my visa number into the machine in hopes that it would take my troubles away.

boom! Hit enter! 
Salvation would soon be at my door in the shape of a Bosch alternator and regulator of unknown origin.

Sadly, my credit card didn’t work.   Technical issues...I was tired of working on the car so I called it a night without placing the order. 
When I woke the next day I couldn’t stop thinking about why the red charge light won’t turn off. Then I remember reading that the dash warning light is actually part of the charging circuit. When the light is on the system stops function. Alternator will not charge battery. To make a long story shorter. ..I discovered that the warning light had grounded itself inside the instrument panel causing it to stay lit at all times. A piece of electrical tape wrapped around the bulb housing and my charging system is operational again.

Amazing how this little bulb crippled my car and tormented my mind. 

luckily I didn’t order a new alternator. I did however pull the new battery out and put the old and fully charged old one back in. 20% restocking fee on the new battery when I return it.  No biggie...just glad I didn’t have to fork out a bunch of dough to fix it. Instead I ordered a short shift kit. My makeshift version using some plumbing connectors came apart 2 blocks from my house. Good thing I was in 2nd gear at the time so I managed to get her home. 

I’m running the original steel wheels 14” 195/60 R14 tiger paw.I don’t think you can go any bigger.  I tried 15” but bigger rims start to make it look more like a truck I found. Plus I don’t think it’s safe to use spacers on a vehicle that was never intended to have big tires. The suspension was not designed to handle such big tires and it doesn’t do you any favours in the performance department either. Just my HO based on experience. 

I spent around 3 hours maybe more removing and polishing the brass that was hiding under the black paint. Love the look of the brass.

Here is what the linkage looks like in the 67 2000tilux 

I have this exact same setup on my 67 2000tilux 

On 3/18/2021 at 6:28 PM, Hans said:

Realoem shows part number specific to NK cars. I think its longer.

I used the one from 2002 and they worked just fine 

I made my own by cutting the unused portion of the shim out and drilling a hole. EI can pound sand. I’ve given them enough chances over the years but they just don’t give a shit about customer service or working with their customers. In not so many words they may as well just tell me they don’t need my business and to beat it. I’m about to remove their logo from my windshield and Save myself the embarrassment by recommending them to others. Terrible customer service. Waste of a great name and brand. 

3 hours ago, Hans said:

What about that place in Duncan?

Not aware of said place.

I don’t but it’s the same as the 2002. 

I’m at a stand still with my car until I can find a 1 mm shim for my oil pump. I’m in Vancouver Canada. If anyone has one they can sell me I would greatly appreciate it. IE and Pelican can’t help me. 

I would buy both .05 and .1 shim if available.

thanks

Yes I think I can get away with a new chain and and another shim if need be. The Pump itself is in good working order and the gears are not worn. I hope the chain I ordered is the correct length. The BMW one was on back order and the after market one I ordered a few years back was too long. Apparently it was a known issue with the after market ones at the time.

Thanks for the clarification. I find it odd that my oil pump is not found even in the parts book I got from W&N for bmw 1500-2000tii

Yes its out of an NK. Same pumps as the 2002's. The internal workings are not the same as the diagrams on realoem. Even the sprocket is different.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3357-EUR---NK-BMW-2000tilux&diagId=11_2581

I can’t find any BMW logo or part number anywhere on pump. Only thing I see is this logo.??

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3357-EUR---NK-BMW-2000tilux&diagId=11_2581
 

I ordered a new rotor inner, chain  and sprocket for my oil pump. The new rotor is threaded therefore I can use the later sprocket. However, when I look at the diagrams on Realoem my oil pump looks similar to the 2 versions outlined but definitely not the same. The rotor in my pump has 7 teeth and The design is different. Can anyone tell me if they have seen a pump like this? Also, there is no pressure hose assembly the feed connects directly into a hole in the block. See pics.

I’ll take it. I could use it.

I’m interested In the entire package but I’m on the other side of the planet practically. it would have to be picked up on a pallet. Would you be willing to pallatize it and I can have it picked up? 

Ill have to pass. Just discovered that the valves on #1 and #4 may of touched down so off she comes.