Stein-man

Hi, Jim - Not sure what "trimmed" means. Can you speak further about this? Thanks, Jim! - Rob

When I start the Tii up, the 5th injector does it's job, and the car fires right up. After about 1.5 seconds the 5th injector stops, and the car dies. I have tweaked the WUR to run richer in steps - no change, and leaner in steps - no change. Thusly, my problem doesn't lie in the WUR. On a whim, I put some small visegrips on the return line - the car fired right up and continued to run, a condition I haven't been able to achieve in the two weeks that I have been wrestling with this. On the back of the pump, where the return line goes to the tank, there is a fitting with a restrictor or check valve. I popped out the microscopic snap ring and have extracted the guts. I'm not sure that everything is in there, since I have never seen one before. The spring goes back in first, followed by the "relief plug" for lack of a better word, then the microscopic snap ring. Am I missing anything? Can I shim the spring to make it stronger against the relief plug? What should I do with this latest data point? - Rob

Phil and GWB - I have been focusing on the WUR. I had sent the pump out for calibration and cleaning at H&R, who does lots of 230/280SL K-fisch pumps. I *presume* they as least looked over the WUR. I took off the throttle body and unhooked the plenum end of the air enrichment hose. I sucked on it, and when cold, air does indeed flow through it. With a screwdriver, I raised up the preheater to operating height, while flowing air through the WUR. It does indeed stop air from flowing when hot. Since the motor is a 2200cc,, I decided that it needed more enrichment than called for in the factory manual. So, I gradually screwed down the washer/nut and tried to start the car. Same as before - starts great with the 5th injector, then dies after 1 second. So I went the other way. I set it to factory cold clearance, then put on another 1/2 turn of height on the nut, so the clearance is around 3mm cold. Lo, and behold, it started and continued to run, though at 2800 rpms. While running, I quickly backed off the throttle screw until it cleared the D-cam and backed off the mixture screw until it gave clearance. I think I have to reduce *slowly* the amount of fuel that enters the engine from the WUR until the idle comes down a bit, then dial back the throttle stop and mixture screw. Now I have to also wait for a cord that I lost for my Zeitronix AFR meter getup. (BTW, miserable customer service there) After calling for two days and sending two emails, on my 12th call to them I got an unpleasant gent who ultimately guided me to the correct cord on their site).

GWB - True confessions. I took off the throttle body yesterday to have a heart-to-heart on the bench. I also removed the black runner to its left. One o-ring never got put on. It *might* have mad a difference. More working today! Phil -

D - I get what you are talking about with moving the eccentric to mod the AFR of the engine. I will try this today. Thanks for the tip! Xavier - A day or so ago, I melted my #1 plug pickup lead on my timing light. I just ordered an Innova 5568, they look great. All - I have spoken with a local wizard. Since everything else is brand new, we decided that I should focus on the throttle body, which reflects what D says. Also wizard recommends capping the tap that ties into the valve cover vent pipe. I'll be working today, it seems! - Rob

Hi, Andy - Thank you for the kind words. Mark H. and I have spoken a few times during the past 18 months, during which I put my car back together. He's reluctant to do a house call, but maybe it'll happen this time. Before I saw your post, I called him and left a message. Hi, Mike - I am on the path to finding someone local that can be my Kugelfischer whisperer. I have read and pretty much memorized the factory procedure and one from Jaymic. They both say pretty much the same thing. I thought a WUR would do it, but it didn't make anything better. Hmmm. - Rob

To All - I am in Boulder, Colorado. Jim K - Thanks for your words of wisdom. I have avoided the whole topic, since I sent it out for full rebuild. As things go, the 2-3mm gap in the preheater in the cold position was zero. It's still hunting and doesn't want to idle. Xavier - Thank you for the good ideas. A vacuum leak makes some sense around here, since coughing back through the throttle is part of current behavior. The little hose coming off the throttle body tees into the larger hose that vents the valve cover and goes to the air cleaner. It should run fine with no air cleaner, right? The hose from the warm up regulator to the intake plenum is new, and firmly cinched down. Paul - I have clamped the hose from the WUR to the intake plenum when the engine is hot, and nothing changed. I also have messed unendingly with the CO screw and the throttle stop screws. The throttle stop screw needs to be screwed way in just to keep the engine running. Your injectors are working great, though! - Rob

Hi, All - My car's resto is mostly finished. I put in the seats and the center console. I am down to making it run well. After diagnosing a bad temp/time switch (a new part!), I put bought and put in a spare. Now the car starts immediately, since the 5th squirts for 1-2 seconds. After the two seconds is over, it runs poorly. I have to massage the throttle to keep it running. After a minute or two, it runs by itself with the throttle stop in the tuna can cranked up a bit, though it "hunts". It should run all by itself, right? ? BTW, I have a reworked Kugelfischer pump, reworked injectors, and a reworked distributor. I have been messing with the throttle stop and the CO screw in hopes of better behavior with some luck. Before I melted my timing light lead on the exhaust manifold, I tried retarding the timing 4-5 degrees. Slightly better, though when I drive down the driveway and back, it feels doggy. I pulled a plug - slightly on the rich side, probably ok for now. Maybe the engine is just new. I would be interested in anyone's thoughts, thanks!

Hi, D - I have good ground there! - Rob

D - Which earth connections did you check? Where are they on the wiring diagram? Thanks! - Rob

0257 - Good tip, thanks - I will check it out tomorrow, during daylight. However, the plug only goes on one way, so I'm not optimistic. - Rob

Hi, Paul - The thermo-time switch? Yes, I did. There is a pretty basic test in the MFI supplement. It's test of the bi-metallic strip in there. It didn't work for me, so I think I have a bad (new) one! ? - Rob

Hi, Marty - It stops pumping when disconnected. I just discovered that my thermo-time switch, which should show rapidly decreasing voltage when 12v is applied to the other lead, doesn't decrease the voltage at all. I just bought this thermo-time switch, and paid a pretty penny for it! ? So, it appears to be not working, at least if the BMW fuel injection system instructions are to be believed. If true, this would make it just pump fuel endlessly. - Rob

Hi, All - I have a small quandary I need some help with. My car is a fresh disassemble/assemble restoration job. Recently, I have been starting up the new engine and just observing. I noticed that it ran great with the fifth injector disconnected. I took the fifth injector out and stuck it into a graduated cylinder to verify a 2.25 mL output before the cold start relay dials it back to nothing. It squirts full-on, full-time, and filled up my graduated cylinder in a jiffy. I verified the ground on the connector goes to ground, and the other lead is 12V full-time. I have a "new" cold start circuit board this bright dude here on FAQ developed as a guts-replacement for the 49 year-old cold start relay. It also did the same thing: full-bore, full-time. My thermo-time switch in the water divider is a new part ($). Does anyone have any ideas for me? Thank you in advance! - Rob

Hi, All - I am still looking for this valve cover diagnostic port/coil wire wiring harness, and the orange port cover. Anybody have one? Thanks! - Rob

Fjord - Since I am "spiffing up" the diagnostic port that sits on the valve cover, it's not that important to me that it actually function. If it looks like it does, I will stop there. You got the plastic blocks and the pins from Mauser? That is the $10 tip of the day. Just today, I uncrimped two of those tubular fittings and re-crimped them - no fun at all! I will troll Mauser. As for the orange cover, I am still skunked until I can get someone to 3D print one or find a suitable used replacement part. Thank you! - Rob

Lots of vendors have a diagram, (parts book p.12/9), of the ignition system for our 2002s. On the one for my '72 Tii, a diagnostic wiring harness is shown as a single part number, including the molded part that clicks into the bracket on my valve cover, and also including the orange cover. I ordered one from my vendor and got a piece of ignition wire 16" long. Not exactly what I expected. When one Googles the part number, all the results are plug wiring only. Something is amiss here. Does anyone have an extra of these, maybe including the orange cover? My car came with this harness, but it's too gross to put back on, and it was absent the orange cover. Thank you! - Rob

Ray - I think it's hard to screw up the headlight wiring, it's pretty basic. The high beam stalk is another situation. The back side is simple - four soldered connections. The bakelite piece has been expoxied to the housing, so someone has been in there "working". Maybe that makes it more suspicious. Also, thanks for the tip - I had the pump unplugged during cranking for oil pressure. Jim K - You should know that IRDave has said that since his wife is leaving town on Thursday, that day or soon after might be good times to get together and see if we can get this project moving forward. Besides the fuse blowing, it's time to start her up! Keep in touch. - Rob 720-331-2002

Jim K and Dave - Cool! Let's keep in touch. - Rob 720-331-2002

Esty - Bingo for you. There are two screws one can remove to access the switch connections. They were all correct, by the way, except for the wire from the directional stalk which went on the only available spot. After a full-on rebuild of my light switch, which works like new now, I have to report, sadly, that I didn't improve the #2 fuse blowing situation. Hmmm. Also, with the ignition switch in the on position, I get a small arc when I hook up the ground lead to the battery. If I pull each fuse out of the fusebox, I still get the arcing. Hmmm. - Rob

Hi, Esty - Is this applicable to a '72 Tii? I would like to think that the ignition switch wiring would be the same for many years and models of 2002, but I could be wrong. Seeing the numbers is a bit of a chore, but I will check my switch out tomorrow, thanks! - Rob

Hi, Dave I had a small breakthrough in the fuse blowing department. I bit the bullet and pulled my instrument panel and took out the light switch and pulled its plug. Put a fresh fuse in the #2 spot, turn the key to the on position, and no puff of smoke from the fuse box. Aha, the switch! Given any chance, I can get micro in a second. I proceeded to take the light switch apart. Wow, spring loaded ball detents, sliding contacts, and the rheostat - all filthy from 49 years of use. When I put it back together, I realized that the switch Does indeed have two positions! I am bonding it together with 6 hour epoxy at the moment, so I don't yet know if I did anything to solve the problem du jour, but I will find out tomorrow. Sure, I would love it if you came down for a visit. I also could use your help making it run - have gas, have oil in it. I think my capacitor may be weak. I static timed it, and the spark wasn't what I call snappy. I have turned it over a bunch to pump oil around, but I haven't make anything ignite in a cylinder - an ignition problem. Give me a call, we'll talk, thanks, Dave! 720-331-2002 - Rob

John - At your basic Autozone! - Rob

Tii owners take note: Well, I think this episode is over. I sourced a nice, white 26R battery. It does NOT fit the battery box, it's too short to hook under the ledge in the front and use the stock holddown at the rear. I did manage to engineer a small spacer of a profile that will hold the battery down in the front via a single screw, while spacing it rearwards about 3/4". In the back, the stock 6mm hold-down works great now. I don't want to tell how many hours I spent looking for the 26R, and, later, a battery that is .75" longer that will actually fit the battery box, front and rear. In this year, 2021, they don't exist, as far as I am concerned. So, the 26R it is until something changes - spacer/holddown required at the front. - Rob

Hi, Dave - Small update. Yesterday, I had the lights, turn signals. fan, and directionals working, but I keep melting the #2 fuse. That governs the taillights, the parking lights, the license plate lights, and the instrument panel lights. My new handy, dandy electrical chart was right on with the colors of the wires. Wiring is correct at the taillights. Lots of these are hard to wire incorrectly. Using the chart, I verified correct connections underneath the #1 and #2 fuses in the fusebox. Yay, a correct electrical diagram. The handy chart did Not rise to the occasion for accuracy around the ignition key. Of course, even blown up, it was impossible to read the numbers on the chart for the ignition key where a particular color goes. Instead, I used pictures I took of the wiring to the key after I drove the car into the shop. When I put a new fuse in #2, it's hot immediately. The hazard button has a molded plug on it - hard to go wrong there, I think. Still working on it, though I have run out of good ideas of things to do now. ? - Rob