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Sahara

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Everything posted by Sahara

  1. Sahara
    Actually, never mind, that's a picture of the wrong manifold. I'm referring to this thing which clearly has electrical contacts on the end of it and was likely a sensor of some kind.
  2. Sahara
    Out of curiosity, what is your driving style, what motor mounts were you using, and what overall condition would you say your car is in? I'm trying to make a list of repairs/reinforcements to do on my car and I'm considering having the subframe preemptively reinforced, but I'm on stock soft motor mounts and don't track or autoX the car.
  3. Sahara
    Inspecting my motor and front subframe/suspension as I often two and came up with a couple of questions. First, please identify the sensor in the intake manifold, mine does not appear to be wired to anything, second, I know the driver side motor mount bracket has a reputation for going out but how strong is the rest of the subframe, especially the highlighted areas? I also never hear about rear subframe and trailing arm issues, are they just stronger? Anything to watch for there?
  4. Sahara
    I had a similar problem but no starter noise, just a click when turning the key and then all the electrics were dead. This was caused by a loose negative cable on the battery just as with @adawil2002. If you have a battery in the trunk like I do, I've found that the top of the battery box (if you have one) can snag the cable and work it loose over time.
  5. Sahara
    Is there such a thing as 'weak' rain gutters? How are they attached to the car? I'd love to throw a rack on but my rain gutters are in great shape right now and I'd hate to damage them.
  6. Sahara
    See the highlighted hole (bolt hole?) in my photo? Should something be there? Is it just a lifting point or for the smog/AC system? This was the best picture I could get, to be clear, I’m referring to the hole that would be furthest downward from the camera that seems to be on the extreme bottom right corner of the block.
  7. Sahara
    And a bit of a clatter on cold start if use too much choke, causing the car to tach up to 2000 rpm as soon as the motor turns over, is no cause for alarm either? Sounds like that’s just down to low oil in the head.
  8. Sahara
    So, after sitting overnight in 80 degree weather, I shouldn't be too worried about my VDO gauge taking 5-10 seconds to climb from 0 to like 35? That's at idle, once I get moving I'll see 60 to 90 straight way. I also get the oil warning light until the gauge passes 15 PSI which is what my VDO sender is set to trip the light at. I know this isn't the gauge 'waking up' as with the gauge energized (ignition on) I'll still see zero until the motor is turning.
  9. Sahara
    This thread, in which a guy says that you should have 80-120 PSI instantly.
  10. Sahara
    Six to seven seconds on a cold motor, 2 to 3 on a warm motor, virtually instant on a hot motor.
  11. Sahara
    That 2000ti is gorgeous. Good on you for keeping her up.
  12. Sahara
    Basically I have an oil leakdown issue when parked. It drains into the pan and I get low oil pressure on start for a few seconds. This is due to the o-ring/valve in oil pump and I have been quoted like $1500 to drop the subframe etc. to get to it to make the repair. I'd be open to that, but going that far there is a laundry list of other things I'd fix and upgrade and I want to get it all done 'while being there' so all in I would be look at like $3500+ in work. My '02 is certainly worth that to me, but it's not in the cards financially right now. In this warm weather I'm not as concerned because the oil quickly flows back into the head and everything is happy, but I drive this car year round until we get the first road salt, and it can be around 20 degrees Fahrenheit by then. I really like the idea of accusump that would let me pressurize the system for a cold start and generally keep the motor healthier, and the install looks far, far cheaper than getting to the pump ($1000+ in labor to get to a 50 cent o-ring really galls me). It looks like others on this board have installed it and @TobyB suggested an accusump for leakdown issues in an old thread. What are your thoughts? Is there way to have electrical control of it so I can prime it from in the cabin?
  13. Sahara
    @steve k. Are you interested in ordering some of these as you mentioned on the first page? They're free for you to use as I said but let me know if you decide to use them so I can ensure you get the correct sized files etc.
  14. Sahara
    Here is hot idle at 1000 rpm after adding oil. It is quieter for sure. Weigh in on whether this sounds healthy, please. CB369EC7-7ADE-44FA-B61F-D4FA4C520D41.MOV
  15. Sahara
    How loose is that loose? I know it’s louder than it was before the fuel starvation but it’s not screaming either. Only slightly louder at idle and the new sound 3k rpm. How alarming would it sound if it was in broken rocker territory?
  16. Sahara
    If my engine is from a ‘78 E21, would the valve cover gasket be the same p/n as it would be for a 2002?
  17. Sahara
    I am going to. A fellow 2002 owner is coming by my house to show me how but he’s not available right away.
  18. Sahara
    Basically what it says in the title. My engine quit at 4K rpm due to what we believe was a blocked fuel filter. Upon restart, the engine runs strong and pulls plenty of vacuum (19 to 20 inches) and the idle is bit rough but not horrific. However, I believe that the sudden shut down at a relatively high load made what were already somewhat loose (sewing machine at idle) valves quite loose (can be heard at 3000 rpm especially when letting off the throttle). I will be getting the valves adjusted by the end of August but I would like to be able to do some driving, about 100 miles, until then so as to enjoy the better weather we’re having. Would this be safe? I’ve heard loose valves are safer than tight valves but I’m also aware valve hammer can be a concern. To be clear, the noise levels are never awful, the idle noise can only be heard in a quiet environment and the noise at 3000 rpm is almost drowned out by the radio.
  19. Sahara
    Something similar happened to me but with a vintage Heuer dash stopwatch I spent months tracking down. The seconds counter snapped right off and the replacement would cost more than the watch is worth and have to be conducted in Switzerland. It still has the minutes counter so nobody can tell but I'm saddened that I can no longer time my runs to the coffee shop
  20. Sahara
    Alright, for real this time
  21. Sahara
    Right I just drove it to lunch. Got about 4 seconds of the light on the first start (after being parked for five hours in 75-84 degree heat) and got it again when leaving the restaurant not 15 minutes later, albeit for only a couple of seconds. I’m starting to lean toward this being the sensor or the wiring that associated it with the warning light, as I don’t think that amount of leakdown that fast would be possible on an otherwise strong motor. I do think the clatter was low oil but only time will tell.
  22. Sahara
    Oops. I’ll fix tonight.
  23. Sahara
    I have a VDO gauge. The gauge comes alive right away on start and sweeps up to like 35 PSI (the light cuts out during this process) and can to 60-70 if I raise the idle with the choke. I’m seeing normal oil pressure throughout the rev range, it’s only dodgy on start. This also means, as was pointed out above, I’m getting the light below ~15 psi not below 7.
  24. Sahara
    Cool. If I’m reading it right, it doesn’t sound like it’s worth a trip to the mechanic until I need something else taken care of. I will of course continue to monitor.
  25. Sahara
    Alright I drove it to work this morning for a good shakedown. No clatter, but the oil warning was on for about five seconds after the engine came to life. I have the VDO gauge and can attest to the oil warning in the cluster coming on at 15 and not 7. I think it just needed oil but the light not cutting off immediately on startup is a bit worrying.
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