AirDoc

49 minutes ago, Schnellvintage said:

Did your tach wire , located at the back of the tachometer gauge get shorted or fall off and short against the body.. a loose terminal could fall off / short and kill the engine. It’s happened to me before. It comes off the negative side of coil and won’t allow the points to work properly.

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  @Schnellvintage  Just removed the cluster.....ground wire is connected surely...however I disconnected from tach..still no spark...unsure this would make any difference.   thanks for the input/brainstorming.

46 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

This suggests that your dizzy is not functioning as required. I just read through this thread and I can't tell whether you are running an aftermarket ignition or the stock configuration (sorry- perhaps too many beers on my part). 

Current configuration is backdated to stock (points, condenser).

7 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

The square tail light cars have a resistor wire feeding the coil.  It replaced the external ceramic coil on the ealier roundier cars.  The wire looks like a speaker wire, with a clear jacket that's usually yellowed with age.  The wire is spliced into the loom at the firewall, just behind the distributor.  If you are using a blue coil, you do not want to add the resistor wire to it.  You can dig out that splice and take full 12V from there and run another wire to the coil, to bypass the resistor wire.  I'd leave the resistor wire in place though, in case you ever want to run a black coil.  Assuming the resistor wire is still good.

 

Which plugs are you running?  Resistor plugs + R5 rotor + resistor wire + blue coil = too much resistance.  (Toby even says so).  Problems usually arise at higher rpm though, so I've read.  You have something else to contend with, it seems.

 

During the smog delete, the resistor wire was bypassed from the fuse box to the coil (new wire).  thanks for the input

8 hours ago, TobyB said:

Test first- you need to see if you have switched ground

at the negative coil terminal.  You can do it

with a small light bulb- unhook the coil negative,

and wire in an indicator lamp, dash bulb, something like

that that draws 3-5 watts.  It should blink on and off

when you crank.

 

When that doesn't happen-

Time for a set of points.   

I bet both your electronic modules are toast.

 

t

 

@TobyB I put a small Trailer LED Lamp in series as you mentioned....the light stays on with ignition..and during attempts to crank...no blinking on/off ...whatcha think?  Thx

6 hours ago, jimk said:

Is there 12v at the coil positive with key on?  It will be 12v resistance wire or not.  No 12v, chase for the open connection/circuit.

We have 11.95v measured / confirmed..power with key on.

3 hours ago, airborne85 said:

Maybe try replacing the spark plug dist/coil wire.........The one that goes from distributor to coil......funnier things have happened

 

 

ira

New wires...however...I also verified that wire is good...swapped with the old wire back/forth  Thanks.

1 hour ago, halboyles said:

Check continuity on the wire (black usually) from the coil negative to the condenser.  No connection, no sparky.

I just checked continuity in that circuit again....it's all good....hmm.....still thinking.

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Test first- you need to see if you have switched ground

at the negative coil terminal.  You can do it

with a small light bulb- unhook the coil negative,

and wire in an indicator lamp, dash bulb, something like

that that draws 3-5 watts.  It should blink on and off

when you crank.

 

When that doesn't happen-

Time for a set of points.   

I bet both your electronic modules are toast.

 

t

 

I like this bulb check...Let me scrounge some stuff up and see if I can check. Thanks for the input

1 hour ago, Schnellvintage said:

Is the resistor wire still installed and with what coil are you using...? Proper ground from battery/frame to engine??
Fwiw



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Using Blue Coil with internal resistor.  the old one and new one are the same

Ground - yes, Battery/Frame/Engine - removed the wires, cleaned them also....they are new.

thanks

2 hours ago, adawil2002 said:

Could have burned out the Pertronix if not running 3 ohms of resistance. 

Could be bad condenser out of the box.

Points correctly gapped?

Is the distributor possibly rotated 180°?

 

How old is the coil?

Points correctly gapped and verified to not be sticking

Distributor oriented correctly - had a buddy double check with me

Coil is new - both old coil and new coil have been tried to no avail.

Condenser - tried with old and new condenser....then again...both could be bad

thx for the input

2002 Troubleshooting Guru's ......I need your assistance please

Looking great!!!

Bling on....nice

Adam...that looks like a Clardy if i'm not mistaken ....a Frigiking I had before was much narrower..and the BEHR has a much different look.

6 hours ago, RobC said:

To the OP, I saw your car at the vintage, and I am betting this is what happened.

 

Thanks

Rob

+1 ...but making that large drive to the Vintage...I didn't have the heart to even mention the idea of swapped springs....

Adam...Aesthetically I like the look of the BEHR...that's all.....use the one that doesn't have any leaks....hahah

Watching the progress....loving it.

Awesome Car....I have ridden in personally.  Great Bimmerphile....Someone will get a great car...and working a/c ...it's cool

Wow...I wish I had time to go see that car....looks to be a deal for a roundie

...and relisted for $55k buy it now

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-2002/173761433475?hash=item2874fd0f83:g:aWkAAOSwMQ1cS42d:rk:2:pf:0&vxp=mtr

On 1/23/2019 at 11:17 PM, xr4tic said:

I put a cheap ebay aluminum Hon-duh rad/fan combo on mine

 

No long term feedback though, the engine blew shortly after

 

Test fit:

 

Narrower than the E21 radiator that was in it:

That is the same radiator that came in my car...I was wondering what it was from...learned something new today.

Is that Dewey's car from Virginia?

Yes...he has been very fraudulent with me - taken payments thru Zelle - unethical/criminal activity.

Awesome Video!!

Do you mean Brian Baker...the same guy that took quite a few folks from the FB group....he got me...and long gone...can't find him.  PM me if you have any information..I'm out quite a bunch also.