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  • Gender
  • Location
    Portland, Maine
  • Interests
    Club Racing, Instructing, wrenching on racecars, sailing, travel...

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  1. Liking the look of the restored 13x6 BBS and 205/60 tires, but I need (3) 60mm center caps to complete the look. Don't need to have the BBS logo (but it would be nice) - just looking for functional plastic caps. Anyone have these? Thanks. JMc
  2. Son of Marty looks like there are a few options (including Bilstein B8s) for a 1975 VW Rabbit. I'll get the specs on them and order a pair to work with shortened struts - sounds like a good alternative.
  3. OK, having just installed 'standard height' home-made coilovers (IE perches + 2.5"ID springs @ 7"x300lbs) with Bilstein HD shocks (standard height) and adjustable camber plates (IE), I'm a little concerned about shock travel. It's set nearly as low as the spring perch adjustment setup can go with the bottom of the front fender lip at 23 1/4" from the ground and the rocker panels are 7" off the ground. This chassis height works for me, but the strut shaft looks like it has a max of 2" strut travel to the top, so bottoming is probably inevitable. Now I see pix of the setup on the Clarion car and it appears to have the sleeve shim placed above the upper bearing, which was something I was considering to see if it buys me more strut tube travel. Before I take everything apart, has anyone done this and are there any reasons not to try it? FYI, I think I'll take my original struts and shorten them, assuming there are some shortened strut insert options. Did Bilstein ever produce more of the shortened ones? Thanks. JMc
  4. Thanks both of you for confirming. I see folks asking for and/or selling "both left and right struts" and was concerned that I was missing something. 🙂 JMc
  5. Is there any difference between the left and right front struts? I'm converting some to coilovers and don't see any obvious difference. What am I missing?
  6. Had some success balancing the Weber 40 DCOEs this weekend, and adjusted the idle settings. - the engine runs much smoother now, The Weber manual instructions were helpful and very systematic. The Redline synchrometer showed an imbalance across the front carb barrels and a big imbalance between the two DCOEs. I put it all together after one last check of the linkage, went to start the car and the starter made a crazy clattering / crunching noise. Found the Solenoid had purged both the 'securing screw' and the 'engagement lever pivot bolt' (see picture). I've had intermittent issues with the starter since purchasing the car but these were not fasteners I thought to check/tighten. Now on the hunt for these two unique screws so I can get back on the road!
  7. mike - Good question. I ended up using stainless 3/8" washers on the plastic side for those rivets, as well at the ones to re-attach the flaps, etc. Decided against rivets for the final assembly of the fan housing to the box, because it was sandwiching a closed cell foam gasket and that looked like a rivet fail. Went with stainless screws and washers there.
  8. In the 'seemed like a good idea at the time' category: I decided to tackle the non-op heater box in my '75 given that a) I'm in Maine and it gets cold here, b) there are fabulous detailed directions for this complex project here on the FAQ, c) many of the needed parts are still available, and c) the coronavirus lockdown thing. This project exposed some crappy past work done to try to keep the heater working, and required just about every tool in the shop. I ended up doing soldering, rust removal, painting, plastic repair, wiring, fabrication and of course cleaning and polishing. Fortunately I was able to find a used heater box with intact plastic (critical). In the end I followed the FAQ instructions pretty closely, with a few adjustments and tweaks (e.g. adapt the fan cover to accommodate a later heater core with the larger inlet/outlets, etc.). So I finished installing the heater box yesterday, which of course was the hottest day of the year so far in Maine (83+ degrees). Other than needing to tighten a few clamps it works perfectly. Used a newer fan motor and the airflow is strong! So I guess I'm looking forward to some cold weather?
  9. Did a bit of fitting and the front strut bar is in behind the strut tops now.
  10. OK, now that I have the fuel pump straightened out, the car is pulling hard up to about 6500RPM. Seems like I am getting the benefits of the 300 degree cam, higher compression and webers. Now the question is do I swap out the Tii exhaust manifold + stock exhaust for an IE long tube header and custom exhaust / muffler from the header back? Seems like that should optimize the power output, though I have not seen any good dyno comparisons of exhaust setups...
  11. Tim - Let me look back through my records and see what I can find. I found a cable that was very similar with an end collar that worked, got the seatbacks working, and then replaced them with Recaros...
  12. visionaut - I fitted the strut bar in both directions and found that positioning it behind the strut was seriously misaligned and would require shims and/or opening up the bolt holes (not my preference). So I swung the plates around and the fit ahead of the struts was near perfect. Had to make a minor mod to the bracket for the brake fluid reservoir, but it all worked out fine. Also avoids brake booster line interference. No trumpets on the webers, just the plate, filter and metal screen. There's a small open space ahead of intake, but that's it. Who sells the stub-lip trumpets? Those sound like a good idea.
  13. Making slow but steady progress cleaning up the engine compartment and the wiring on 'Webster'. Before: After:
  14. Well, I finally found a rebuilt Bosch AL41X alternator on E-Bay. Installed it in 20 Minutes and back up and running. Looking forward to an evening drive to see how the electrical system supports the lights, fan, fuel pump, and sound system. On another topic, also managed to get the fixed camber plates in, safety wire the front springs in place, and install the front strut brace. Productive week!
  15. The actual swap really is this easy once you find an AL41X alternator.
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