irdave

39 minutes ago, ray_ said:

I think it takes (or can take) a bit of play out of the assembly also.

 

I don't replace mine when the fall off

This is kinda' where I'm at- it actually seems to work exactly the same. :shrug

Maybe next time I take all that sound damping off the door I'll look into Jim's solution, which I'm sure works perfectly, but in the meantime? It seems to work fine.

Started to wind the window this morning and had a pop/bang. Window still goes up and down, this spring was down in the door.

Haven't had the chance to look at any parts diagrams yet, but thought I'd ask you guys...

Edit to add, nope, didn't search, didn't do anything, just asked. I've been a bit of a train wreck lately, sorry.

This one, too.

Scheel seat. Foam is in surprisingly good condition. Bought it from Cal before he bugged out to Texas to try. Didn't work for me, maybe it works for you.

Text is fine too

970 to two too 9597

Brand new, current, pair Sparco GT seats, black, with BMW brackets. I opened one up to try it in my car, but my seating position is too modified from stock to work. Bought them directly from Sparco a couple months ago.

Text is fine, too 

970 to two too 9597

My license plate is literally MCMLXX6.

(Word Tom.  I've been lost in a dark place for a bit, but I think I'm finding the way out.)

This is totally the one I was thinking of.  Climb dance.

R&D engineer at a mountain bike company.  We totally might be having a friends and family sale going on right now.  If I know you and you're looking for a new bike, ping me.  Might be able to help you out a little.

I've had life going on, so haven't been around, but still driving the car daily...

Some guy, holding up traffic, asks me,"What year is it?"

Me, being annoyed already and a bit of an asshole, said,"2022." And drove away. 

But I think that's going to be my new answer.  I mean, if plastic grills and square lights don't tell you enough, then it doesn't really matter what year the car was made.  And honestly, my car is more '88 than '76 anyway...  Maybe that's what I should say when they ask for clarification; '88.

I, too, have looked at rack doctor.  I replaced the e30m3 rack on my car with a z4 non M rack.  It's designed as electric assist, but I just run it manual.  It's lighter than the others and isn't that bad to turn, even with 16x8s.  I did need to make / cause to exist the steering knuckle- linkage, so it's not a direct bolt in...

I think, basically, if you get the whole rack, most of them work fine.  It's the joint in the middle that sometimes is female sometimes male on the rack that catches people out.  Also, some of the e46 racks are not linear as they move through the range, just so you know.

6 hours ago, jp5Touring said:

Not everyones cup of tea but I like it. NSFW 

 

 

Me, too.  My car isn't anywhere near that silly, but it's a lot closer to that than stock.

BMW E30 M3 Group Center Lock Hub Adaptors

RACECARSDIRECT.COM

---

Brand new and boxed. Also fits E24, E21 & E36

In theory, this could be the left side part number from BMW... 31.21.2.220.798

And this could be the right side... 31.21.2.220.799

There's also the guy in NZ that builds all the reproduction Group A e30m3 parts, bet he has some.

Did you try contacting BBS directly?  But yeah, pro'ly not cheap.

On 3/18/2022 at 11:07 AM, Leucadian said:

When GME goes to the moon, I'll be reaching out to you guys.

 

Amazing stuff, truly impressive.  

Sign me up with this ape.  I'll be there then, too.

21 hours ago, danco_ said:

My car stays colorado. It's my favorite 2002 color.

...

Thank you Dave! 

 

I don't have first hand experience with the group buy carbon hood and trunk lids I know a handful of people who run them and say that they are pretty good, but no one that says they are truly great. I can say for certain that we won't be using hood prop bars. Gas struts might work for the trunk lid but I like our current solution for the hood. It's hot rod style and very light. I'll post more on this. I expect SOC hoods and trunks to be considerably lighter than those of the group buy. We have done a few hoods and each lighter than the last. We found that we were using too much resin during infusion and we can get away with less and still achieve desired goals, which is lighter and more rigidity. We'll likely offer a hood for the all-stock guys who don't want to use hood pins. I don't care to see them either, but getting rid of the hood latch bar and the big metal pieces it attaches to is worth the weight savings and opens up the engine bay considerably. It's a good look and with regards to heat...we don't need it here in California. The weather here is truly the best all-around. 

 

I think the 5100s will be fine. I had them set up spring and shock valving for a 2000lb car. If it's better than a 250lb spring'd GC set up, I'm happy. 

They don't fit great.  They barely fit 'good.'  Really, they're good enough.  Especially the trunk lid.  I think using the waist trim can help hide some sins, but they came with a car I bought a while ago, so it's easy for me to complain because I didn't have to pay all the money for them.

I bought a damned Miata last fall.  Um, there's something to light cars.  My 2002 is 2500 on the scales, consisting mostly of e30m3 parts.  The weight savings to the Miata is very noticeable.  I've removed a little over 300 pounds from my car from when I got it, couldn't imagine getting another 500 out of it...  It'd be so nice.

Looks awesome.  Really, it looks really cool.

I have a set of from the first group buy of carbon hoods and trunk lids.  I saved 30 pounds from the hood and 20 from the trunk.  Added gas struts front and rear.  The rear torsion spring was so stiff that you would start bending the trunk lid before it started closing.

AST; the ones to stay away from are the 4200.  I bet the 5100s will be great.  Nice that they made you a window to be able to adjust them.  And don't let anyone fool you, the rebound adjuster adjusts the compression more than the compression adjuster on a lot of shocks.  My mind was blown on the shock dyno a couple months ago.

I have OE e30m3 hanging pedals, probably the same as the rest of the e30 hanging pedals, and it moved my seating position back about 4 inches...  In my old car with regular pedals, I had a Momo hub adapter, a pretty tall quick release, and a very dished Sparco wheel.  I'm still trying to figure out how best to make up a bunch of that space to get the steering wheel back to me in the seat.

They look awesome!

And more transmission talk- if they fit the m10, they'll fit the s14...

When I was looking at putting FCR's on my previous car, the car racer guys reported noticeable gains going from dual Webers to a rack of FCR's on their Pinto (?) engines- 2L guys.  Like 20 hp gains.  Who knows the state of tune before and after, but I got to the point where I had a rack of 4 in the shop before I went down the path I did with the new car...

I think this is a worth while venture.

On 1/8/2022 at 10:40 AM, LarsAlpina said:

Be careful with those turning wheels for the adjustment of the backrest position (second photo in the trunk). This type of them tends to break faster than you can say "poop".

 

Best regards,

Lars.

I made a 3d printed part to replace mine.  Didn't try to make it look original at all.  But damned if it doesn't work just fine.

22 minutes ago, lewisfoto said:

As the title says the factory shifter knob on my 02 won't tighten any more. You can thread it on and off no problem just when you get to the end it "skips" Was thinking maybe some blue Locktight? I don't know

I could get behind that.  Might work good enough to be a permanent fix; and if not, it'll still unscrew.  Might be able to get a jam nut that has the same pitch, put it on first, then back it up to the knob- the threads down there might support the load...

16 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I have an itchy finger and a brand new plasma cutter... you have my attention. 

Might have to call them about the plate, but that's where he says he got it, and I have no reason to think he lied.    Save the plasma for something else- I think you'd want this cnc cut.

Yes, they'll fit.

1 hour ago, 2002iii said:

Making a T5 transmission fit in an 02 is going to involve a lot of tunnel modification.

 

You can buy a bell housing for a Ford T9 transmission like what was used in the Ford Sierra and Merkur xr4ti. You can buy an aftermarket T9 from Quaife.

265 already fits in my car, but options are always interesting, as are gearboxes from Quaife.

3 hours ago, Dudeland said:

Every time I think about rebuilding the 245, I go on FB  and google RX8 transmissions. 
 

One of the guys on s14.net stuck a T5, like Toby has been saying for years, behind his s14 with an adapter plate, and lo and behold! it works fine.  I'm looking at a 6sp box from another car for another car.  If / when I get my hands on it, I'll measure it up.