Sharktrainer

On my 5th now in 1 year, breaking the last one a week ago. Installed to the letter each time, but have a high output turbo setup and running a 4 speed manual transmission with 8 hole guibo. 

Am I using an inferior guibo?

On 1/12/2018 at 4:48 PM, Bumpky02 said:

It’s been pretty cold over here the last month.

I seen you about 6 months back when I was over there working in the Marriott installing some industrial machinery. Quite a nice 2002 you have.

Aloha 

$196 yearly registration plus $20 yearly safety check here in Hawaii.

Waterspot remover with crushed diamonds works very well and will also polish it to almost chrome. Diamond Magic or A1 work well. Use a white scour pad or blue one.

It's the 123 Tune + Bluetooth  distributor and using my backup iPad Air for the time being that doesn't have cellular, which in turn makes the speedo feature, the zero, inoperable.

Back on the road finally.

Left scratching my head tonight where boost disappeared to. In the morning I think I'll beeline to the wastegate then work from there. Crappy video with headlamp throwing shadows. 

*tick* *tink* noise is turbo drain hardline bouncing off main pulley at low idle from me forgetting to fasten the bracket to it.  Sorted after I took video.

Thanks for the responses. Guess I'll go for it and hope for the best. 

I anticipate blowing the head gasket in the next few months during autocross and will replace with a pure copper head gasket. Anyone foresee issues with copper and G05?

Nobody uses white vinegar and salt for this anymore? Way cheaper way for us to combat rust here in Hawaii, the origin of rust IMO.

I use it in all my Mercedes and have a cache of it on hand, so was wondering if it is bad for my M10. My thinking is that my old Mercedes (M110, M103, M104, M117 and M119) engines are more or less alike as far as metals, etc. 

Also just installed a complete alloy radiator if that's a factor, although remote. Plus turbocharged.

Waiting for a bigger, better turbo than my current one to show up from Sweden. Spools way faster which will make boost more predictable to me with this modified Holley 4150. When the back twin throttle plates open and dump fuel from the boost referenced bypass regulator, hold on.

Turbo that's on the way;

Compressor housing
0,60 A/R
Inducer 70 mm
Exducer 92 mm
TRIM 57
Inlet 102 mm
Outlet 2.5”
360 bearing

Turbine housing
0,63 A/R
T3 undivided flange
Exducer (outlet) 64 mm
Inducer 75 mm
Outlet 3" V-band

 

3 hours ago, bento said:

Is it running? Curious to hear how this blow through setup works. 

Yes, runs very strong and quite scary in the rain, but doing some needed upgrades so down until then. 

Rough cut out hole in my hood so I can close it. Undecided on scoop/cowl design. Lowest profile as  possible.

Frustrated that my 'direct fit' alloy radiator isn't. Fins smashed up against water pump pulley almost, with 1/8" to spare. Guess I have no choice but to mod the radiator brackets.

I lost the center grill at an intersection and need to replace. Not crazy to spend $500+ at the moment, but found one from an earlier model 1602 with 5 vertical slats versus mine that had 4 vertical slats per side. Will it fit my '71 2002?

Stock with E12 head and new stock camshaft for now. Only have 6 weeks until autocross season and unsure if Ireland could complete me some lower compression pistons in time. Fingers crossed she can handle for the time being.

Eventually I'm going to wedge a mini-roots supercharger in between the intake and carb so I can compound/twin charge it so no flat spots anywhere when I hit the throttle.

Yes, running fine and run hard before turbo install. Warmed up before goosing throttle.

I just have stock oil filter setup on now. Waiting for some an10 fittings to install my oil cooler setup.

Are the sandwich style adapters rubbish?

So ran it for the first time. All was well and hit 4800rpm and then bam! Oil filter gasket blew out the side and drenched entire front of car in oil. Everyone standing by also drenched, heh!

Anyone know which oil  filter works with a M10 turbo setup? I'm guessing I have a restricter type oil filter on now.

Well, here is where it lives now. I will cancel all this rubber I think and go all rigid via welding the ducting.

Thanks! So are you building a drift car?

Yes, my car but an older photo and when I finish the intercooler routing it will be a 'turbo roundie'

The day I got the car. 10 months of welding and body work. Not one panel was free of rust. Hawaii air eats up old German cars quite quickly.

0.8 is huge for panel patching. Try 0.4 or 0.6, but you'll need a new smaller sleeve. More than likely you have the reversible wheel for feeding small gauge wire on your welder.

Also a 110V welder does better than a 220V for these task.

Which shielding gas are you using?

What size wire are you using and are you using flux core or shielding gas? 

If you could get a brass rod behind the repair area you want to close up, it will counter burn through. Hope you used weld through primer.

From what I've read out there in regards to length of vacuum line is for lack of a better term, BOV lag. 

Other things I've read on location is a 50/50 split in the automobile forum world. Before and after with many theories which both make sense, so it seems comparable to the 'which came first, the chicken or the egg' question.

I've heard not too close to the throttle because some have claimed bent throttle shafts and not at turbo because it can cause nut on compressor to loosen.....etc..