Sharktrainer

Ah, transmission tunnel modification. No big deal though.

Thanks for the info. ?

Here are the ones at my house, have many more at storage. It’s a sickness.

81 W123 Euro 280E AMG. Other aero bits (skirt, trunk spoiler, rear valance) are off for some rust repair. Might swap in M119 Mercedes 4 cam V8 with big turbo after body back in shape. 

‘91 W124 coupe

2002 e46 325ci

1970 El Camino restoring. Working on rust now is why panels out of alignment.

I have the H&R sports cup 60mm/40mm kit on my Mercedes W124 AMG and it takes corners like a cat on carpet. Liked it so much I bought another for my W124 coupe but never installed it yet. Oddly, it came with orange Koni shocks and struts on this order. 

Blew up my turbo M10 a while back due to too much boost and have this early M50 equipped e34 I want to use in the 2002 and eventually boost it. 

I also have a 5 speed manual from an e30 325is which from what I’ve read will be pitched when mated to M50, which is fine. The auto transmission in e34 is cooked.

My question;

What electrical components do I need from e34 for engine to operate for the time being? Transmission electrical stuff tied to ‘brain’ going to be an issue, or do I need to nutter bypass it or...? 

Eventually I’ll get a stand-alone management put in when turbo phase starts, I’d just like to get it mobile.

Agreed.

13 hours ago, irdave said:

 

The 5000 turbo cars should have been out about the same time; I bet the turbo parts are pretty available.

Owned an ‘81 5000 Turbo about 25 years ago. Problem with those manifolds from what I’ve read is they are not T3, something of their own design. I’ll just make my own turbo manifold and intake manifold if I pull the trigger.

For now I’d like to put a 6 cylinder fuel distributor with a bigger Venturi from my old W124 Mercedes , and try boring out throttle body. Have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator somewhere to get some kick out the KE  Jetronic 

Also will delete cat to free up some flow.

Here’s what it looked like the day I got it.

Bought this for $500 and threw some tint and wheels on it. 85 GT Coupe with 5 speed. Not a Quattro so not bad ass. Maybe turbo the 5 cylinder 10V in it and see what can be extracted in the future. 

Suspension tired but other than that it has been pretty reliable for the 6ish weeks I’ve owned it.

Have some fender flares coming for it from Ukraine and give it a Groupe B rally look.

Last time valve clearance /springs were adjusted/checked? If you pull the valve cover, shine a light down into chain tensioner void and see if it’s in good shape. On another note, your engine sounds a little late on timing.

On the fuel pump I suggested is 2 fuel pumps in one. One half operates all the time and other half only when it senses boost, which is where the 160gph number comes from. Of course you have to use a fuel regulator with bypass/return with the fuel pump I recommended.

On my setup currently,  I use a Holley 4150 blow through carburetor which ask for a lot of fuel on boost, therefor my 130gph fuel pump struggles to satisfy it when needed at WOT.

This is what you need, especially if you’re going for max hp. I will be ordering one after I finish rebuilding my turbo M10.

no affiliation

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152779510651

Those Vietnam bumpers are actually pretty good quality. Very popular with owners of vintage Mercedes-Benz, particularly the old ‘70’s and ‘80’s R107’s roadsters. 

$400 obo shipped to US. 

Eye on one carb repaired with stainless pins and epoxy. Strong repair, not janky. 

Gaskets all fresh and will included various new air correctors and jets to help you tune it to your application. Also including a new synchrometer. 

You will need carb to intake gaskets, intake to head gaskets, and 8 M10 nuts (if I find them, I’ll put them in the box)

Went turbo route long ago and these need a new home. 

Refurbished by 123ignition USA

New board and wires

1500 miles mechanically

Zero miles electrically

Bought another one new while this one was being sent for repair. 

No cap or rotor included. Price is $400 shipped to the US, all states.

Paypal preferred

Bought a weathered '70 El Camino to transport my broken turbo 2002 engine/trans around to machine shop/s. Hammering out a deal on a dolly to use with it for when it breaks down. $200+ tows are getting old. 

Developed a nasty hammering when I get on the accerator hard on my 4150 blow through turbo M10. What say you? Only knocks/hammers at this point...other than that, no hammer. If I ease into the throttle, it's non existent.

Timing is tits.

Valves adjusted to spec.. triple checked.

Sound seems like it's right at the firewall.

Short video clip 

I install/repair big ass industrial laundry machinery on military bases, navy ships, hospitals, hotels and prisons/jails throughout the Hawaiian Islands. 

Some examples of the heavier weighing in at 12,000 pounds and 17,000 pounds.

Interested in a good shape e12 head, maybe even a rebuilt one if price is right. Naked head is fine too if it's all that's available.

Also I live in Hawaii, which is a state of the USA. We have USPS, Fed Ex, UPS, DHL just like the US mainland for those unaware. No customs paperwork to be filled unless you are sending me a fruit basket with my purchase.

Mahalo

3 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

If you get a bluetooth 123 distributor, you can turn on the immobilizer from the app any time you are leaving the car parked.

Sure does give piece of mind don't it. I no longer worry about my car when I leave it at the airport or when going diving/beach etc whereas before I'd get a bit of anxiety, never really relaxing.

Arrived. Whew!

7 hours ago, Bibm5 said:

Those look pretty cool. Could you post a couple pics of what the car looks like during the day with the lights off? I was thinking about doing something like this to but I'm curious what it looks like.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

 

Put in 6k headlights with RGB angel eyes controlled by remote. 

So talked to Ed at 123 Ignition USA where I purchased my Tune Plus from and he will repair under the 1 year warranty free of charge except for shipping to him. He seems to think it's the board inside. Also the blue ground wire has a weird for lack of a better term, blackened copper strands like something shorted out.

Went ahead and ordered another Tune Plus distributor for the time being which should be here this Friday....didn't want to wait a week and some days for mine to return back to me. Having a spare seems a logical move after this fiasco. 

I dont have the USB version but rather the Bluetooth one.

Just bought, didn't realize there were others available. It has boost sensing inside per literature and has been great for many months on boost up to this point. Destroyed many tuner boys with their modern setups...370Z's, WRX's, SRT's, built Hondas...etc.

Gauge on iOS only goes up to 15psi/1bar

Yeah, I was thinking the 1bar boost may have been too much and finally gave up inside the distributor. 

That explains why it only registers 1bar on dashboard app, heh.