doslucero

Thanks Lorin.  I think the screws would be a nice custom touch to the BMW not Porsche.  I've been in a few Porsches with the screws in the door panels.  The advantage of the screws with my plywood door cards is that if there is warping of the wood, the plastic clips are not going to keep the door panels flush to the door yet screws will keep those door panels flush and straight and there isn't an worry of the clips popping off.  The plastic clips worked great with the original masonite backing because those backings were more forgiving.  I may try the plastic clips first and if they don't work, I'll see what I can do with screws.  

Thanks for the replies guys.  I'm really wondering if anyone has experience using screws and whether they screwed directly into the door metal or into something that can be put in the existing clip holes in the door that will catch the screw.  Adawil, I already have holes in the door cards where the original clips go.  Simeon, I agree It would be a shame to screw through the vinyl but check out the singer door panels below.  I think the screws could add a nice custom touch if done tastefully and I hate the original plastic clips.  Dang, thanks, I've done many online searches and have seen the abundance of plastic door panel clips available.

I recently made some new door panels using vinyl and plywood for the door cards.  Does anyone have experience using door panel screws as opposed to the plastic clips? I made holes in the door cards for the clips but the holes are not the perfect size for the original plastic clips.  If I was to use screws, how might I attach them to the doors? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks.  

Roberto 

If you decide to get it running.  Check out AutohausAZ for parts.  They're located in Tempe and are way cheaper than the dealership.  And they have a will call to pick up your parts a day or two after you order them.  Good luck! 

Great looking car!  Restore it.  I'm restoring a 76 in Tempe/Phoenix area right now and mine wasn't nearly as well taken care of as yours.  I wouldn't even paint it.  That color looks killer.  

I'm restoring a 76 in Phoenix right now and while I've done all the mechanical work on it myself so far, I have got a couple leads on some shops that you may want to check on.  Vaughan Motor Works and Bo's Motor Works.  Both shops are located in Tempe.  A relative takes his e30 to Vaughan and says they are super nice and do great work.  I was told about Bo's from a guy that saw my car on the street.  He said he used to own a Tii and had Bo do some work on it.  I've stopped by the Bavarian Motors shop and talked with the owner.  They seem pretty legit and the owner said he has a lot of 2002 parts in storage that he's been sitting on for years but I asked him about doing some work and he quoted pretty high so I guess it just depends what your $$$ situation is.  Please let us know where you end up going or if you're interested in meeting up to talk 2002's. 

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the pointers.  I did switch the wires but didn't screw the turn signal back to the fender.  I didn't know the screws provide the ground.  Ill try that tomorrow.  Thanks. 

Update:  I believe I found the source of the problem.  I took Mikes advise and disconnected each individual wire from fuse #8.  There were two grey/white wires going to #8.  One wire went to the back right tail light.  When I disconnected that one from the fuse.  It still blew.  Then I disconnected the other one and It didn't blow.  So I followed that grey/white wire.  Come to find out, It goes to the front right turn signal.  I had no Idea #8 fuse goes to the right turn signal.  As I followed the wire and got close to the turn signal light, there was a split that was not connected to anything, It has some cobwebs in the split connector.  That could have been an issue.  As I got closer to the turn signal, I couldn't pull the wire out from under where the turn signal light sits.  I think corrosion took its course and that wire was stuck in the right front fender.  I ripped the wire out and replaced it.  I definitely think that wire was hitting something in that fender but I couldn't tell cause when I ripped the wire out, It broke in half.  So I replaced both wires to the right front turn signal, plugged them into the turn signal, plugged the grey/white wire back to the fuse box and the fuse did not blow!!.  The rear right tail light was bright as ever and the gauge lights were bright too!!.  So I messed around with the turn signal and got it to turn on but not blink.  I believe that the turn signal is bad.  I got it from a 2002faq member which is in pretty bad shape but I wont name names.  The connectors on the turn signal that touch the bulb are wonky and don't line up correctly.  The plastic is completely cracked so I'm going to get a new turn signal light.  Thank you guys so much for your help.  

Thanks for the info guys.  I'm going to do some continuity testing today after work on the wires to the rear tail light and the lightbulb socket.  I'll let you know what I find.  I have about 15 extra fuses so hopefully I don't blow all of them before finding out the issue.  Mike: I checked the seatbelt sensor wires.  They aren't hooked up and don't look to be shorting but I'll check those more thoroughly today.  LB72: I recently replaced the reverse light sensor on the transmission and fixed the wires.  I don't believe that is the issue because the backup lights work but I'll get under the car and take a closer look.  Thanks Simeon for the link.  That process seems a little confusing but I'll read it again when I have more time.  Would I be able to do that test with the light tool below?

Every time I turn the lights on on my 76 2002, The #8 fuse breaks.  I know that the #8 goes to the rear right tail light and brake light as well as the instrument cluster lights. Neither the right tail light or instrument cluster has working lights.  I checked the wires going from the tail light to under the dash.  I didn't find any wire that was contacting metal.  I rewrapped the wires to the rear tail light.  I took out the gauge cluster, non of the wires going to the gauge cluster looked fried.  I even replaced the light switch cause it was falling apart.  I also checked the wires going into the fuse box.  I didn't see anything out of the ordinary.  The only other thing that the #8 fuse goes to is the fog lights but I don't have fog lights so nothing is hooked up.  If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.  I also checked the ground to the tail lights which is near the left tail light.  I cleaned up the ground.

Thanks, 

Roberto 

I'm looking for a light switch for my 76 non tii.  I attached some pictures.  I kept burning out the #8 fuse and when I tried to take out the light switch to check the wires, it fell apart in my hands.  Looks to have some missing pieces.  Please let me know if you are selling one.  I don't believe it is fixable but if anyone has any information on that, I would greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks, 

Roberto 

Update: I found the brown and white wire funning from the gauge cluster.  I couldnt follow it through the firewall because it joined a ton of other wires so I cut the wire under the dash, added a new wire and connected it to the temp sensor.  It still didn't work.  So I got a new sensor from autohausaz, went to pick up the next day at will call and now the temp gauge works.  It runs a little hot so the next step it to replace the thermostat which I have an extra one that came with the car.  Thanks Toby for your help again. 

Thank you Toby.  My car is a 76.  I'm going to need to take the gauge cluster out to look for the single brown and white wire.  I don't see it by just looking under the dash.  I do see a brown and white wire that is part of the main plug that going into the back of the gauge cluster.  There are no loose brown and white wires around the engine so I'm thinking that this wire may have been taken out completely before I got the car.  I'll post an update with my findings. 

I'd suggest pulling back the rubber tar to see how much rust you really have.  I welded in some sheet metal on my drivers side cause it wasn't that bad but had to purchase a new pan for the passenger.  Take a crow bar and a hammer to the tar and it should crack and peel off like a fresh baked tray of crystal meth.  Here are a few pics of how my rust repair went down.  The nice part about yours is that it looks like your petal box is solid,  Mine was rusted through on the bottom with a fist size hole in it.  Had to buy a replacement from a 2002faq member.  

Hi, 

My temperature gauge in the dash cluster is not working and there are no wires going to the temperature sensor on the engine.  Can you tell me how to wire the temperature sensor and where the wire/wires connect to to make the gauge work?  I feel like the engine runs hot and I cant tell when it's overheating.  I've searched all over and haven't been able to find the answer.  When I got the car, there were no wires going to the temp sensor.  Also, I haven't been able to figure it out from the wiring diagram.  Thanks in advance.  Any tips will help.  

Update: 

I took the battery in and got a new one under warranty.  They said that is was so dead that even jumping it would not start the car.  The funny thing is that the battery was only 3 months old.  I put the new battery in and it started right up.  It does not need a new starter so thats good.  So I believe I could be only two things: The alternator or a short in the wiring that is draining the battery.  If anyone has any advice on troubleshooting the cause of my battery draining, I'd greatly appreciate it.  

Thanks,

Roberto 

Thank you for the response Mike.  I tested the battery on my own with the voltmeter (11.73).  Autozone tested with load tester.  I do think the battery is weak, but if a drained battery was the issue, wouldn't jumping the car make the car start?  Also, this is relatively new battery.  Only 2 months old.  The reason I think there is a battery charging issue is because this is the second battery I've got in the last 4 months.  Definitely think there is a charging issue.  So I will check the seat belt interlock.  This is the first time hearing about that.  The wires going to the seatbelt are disconnected.  I have never used the seat belts in the car and prior to these starting issues, I've run the car without the seat belts fastened which leads me to believe that the seat belt interlock is disabled.  Can you tell me where to locate the starter relay?  It it near the voltage regulator or under the dash? 

Thanks, 

Roberto 

Hi,

I'm trying to diagnose a starting issue with my 1976 2002.  Any advise as to what I should look at next is greatly appreciated.  

What the car is doing:

It wont start. it clicks once when turning the key.  The front light and turn signals also stopped working when the car started failing to start (but the back lights work).  I've tried jumping the car and it does the same thing.  The issue started a couple weeks ago when I was trying to start the car, It cranked just fine but the engine wouldn't start, after cranking it a bunch of times, I checked the spark plug wires and distributor cap, made sure those were connected.  After jiggling the spark plug wires the car started right up.  Then it died a few minutes later and it needed a jump.  Over the last week, I was able to jump the car but when I turned it off then tried to start it right away, it would not start.  Now the car doesn't start on its own or with a jump.  

What I've done: 

I tested the battery.  Took it into Autozone and they said it was good.  I checked it on my own just a couple days ago and its only showing 11.73 which is low.  I replaced both positive and negative battery cables, new wires going to starter solenoid, new negative battery ground wire, new ground wire on the alternator, cleaned up the chintzy wires going to the alternator brushes, new voltage regulator.  I did the screwdriver bypass test on the starter and it clicks just once.  Before I take the starter off, is there anything else I should check?  I also don't believe the alternator is charging the batter correctly.

Thanks, 

Roberto 

Thanks again guys.  I'll check the carb gasket to make sure it has the correct holes for the idle circuit (have not done that).  To answer your other questions,  I checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any.  replaced all plastic/rubber caps with new ones.  The new primary idle jet/cover threads in fine and has a rubber seal (I just cant screw it all the way in or it will starve).  This is also the same issue when I had the solenoid.  I have plastic floats set to correct level.  Aux Venturis are correct way.  The carb is tight, with new gaskets.  I also replaced the power valve near the float.  Not sure what the plunger is?  I tried to search for it.  

Thanks for the responses guys.  Here's a few answers to your questions:

The issue started when we noticed the solenoid (on primary jet side, my mistake in thinking it was the secondary) was loose so we tightened it and messed with a few carb settings and it got worse.  Also I can see the jet of fuel squirt into the carb.

Background on the car: 

Bought the car a few months back.  It wasn't running.  the weber carb was off the car.  I put the carb back together with a basic kit, installed new plugs (gapped correctly), new fuel filter (pump works fine), gas tank is clean, took the car for a short ride and it didn't exibit the current issues.  Then I installed new plug wires, adjusted valves, noticed that the solenoid was loose then the issues started.  

Carb details:

The 32/36 is old, but I cleaned it out really good, replaced the solenoid with a regular plug and size 60 jet.  The secondary has size 50 jet.  Not sure what the other jet numbers are without taking it apart again.  It still needs to have the primary loose to idle.  I also replaced the accelerator pump so that shouldn't be the issue.  It has a water choke, originally it had only one hose going from the manifold to the choke.  The other was blocked off.  I got a new hose and attached the 2nd choke hose from the choke to the engine block.  I adjusted the float (made sure the floats actually float).  Installed a new float filter.  I noticed that the primary bottom butterfly flap was a tiny bit open at rest which allowed some fuel to get through and stain the side of the port.  I adjusted the flap so it closes properly and doesn't block the little hole on the wall of the port.  After all this it still exhibits the idle, loose primary jet/ backfiring issues.  Also when I'm adjusting the idle mixture screw, or the secondary idle jet when the car is running, it doesn't seem to change how the car runs at all.  This doesn't seem right.  Also, all the jets are cleaned and should be working fine.  

My thoughts:

I don't know if the jets are the right size, probably not.  

Do you think it could be anything other than the carb?

I don't want to get a new carb until I can diagnose the problem.

Thanks for all the help.  

I have a 76' 2002 with a 32/36 carb.   The car starts fine but when you step on the gas, it wants to die.  In order to rev the engine up, the gas pedal must be pushed slowly.  I took apart the carb twice. I replaced carb gaskets, parts and checked the float.  I replaced the solenoid with a regular secondary idle jet.  That secondary jet must be unscrewed a little to have the car idle right.  This doesn't seem right.  I checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any.  I have a water choke.  There was emissions on the car but everything was blocked off when I got it.  Sucked on the vacuum hose coming from the distributor to the carb and it did move the distributor components a little.  At this point, I'm not sure what else could be causing this idle/ running issue.  When I'm driving the car, it does this same dead spot when I step on the gas,  it happens the most going into second gear.  It also backfires sometimes when I step on the gas to fast.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  It also runs rich.   

Roberto  

Thanks again Mark.  Thats a big help.  

Thank you so much for the reply Mark.  That helps a lot and you answered pretty much all of my questions.  One last thing I'm still confused about is the last sentence you wrote about pictures 1 and 2.  You said, "the other hose on the carb connects to the nipple under the carb on the manifold, black hose in picture 1".  Did you mean the black hose in picture 2?  Below is a picture of my carb and choke unit.  The red hose is coming from the same place as picture one on my original post, that goes to the bottom choke connector one the carb (red arrow).  Then the other hose with the blue arrow (which comes from the nipple under the carb on the manifold) goes to the top choke connector which is covered in the picture.  After this I should be good correct? 

Thanks again. 

I recently purchased a 1976 2002.  The weber 32/36 carb was off the motor so I rebuilt it.  When putting it back on the vehicle, I'm a bit confused as to where certain hoses go.  I don't live in California so I don't need all the emissions stuff but there are some funky splits going on with some of the hoses and top hole on the water choke connected to the weber carb is plugged.  Please see the write up I did in the three attachments below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

FYI, not all these photos are of my vehicle.  Only photos 3 and 6 are my car.