doslucero

On 6/27/2018 at 10:59 PM, Bibm5 said:

Are the mirrors still available?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

Hi,

They are still available. 

Selling a driver quality set of mirrors.  Driver and passenger.  Not looking to split up the set right now.  I have all the mounting pieces.  $100 plus shipping.  

Selling 4 turbine wheels.  They came off a 320is.  They are in good shape.  The tires are old and probably no good for driving.  Would prefer local pickup in Phoenix, AZ.

Thanks,

Roberto 

Radiator came from a 1979 320i.  Looks to be in great condition.  $50 plus shipping. 

I've read all the treads already chief. 

I'm replacing a 1976 2002 rear diff with a 1979 LSD diff.  The half shafts for both cars look to be the same length for these particular year cars.  

Here is my question for someone who is familiar with this install and year cars:  Is it possible to swap the 2002 diff flange into the LSD.  This should in theory allow me to use the 2002 half shafts and save me from having to buy the spacer kit or do any modifications to the cv joints.  

Also:  I'm not sure how these diff flanges come out since they dont have a center bolt on the outside.  I'm guessing there is a ring holding them on inside the diff which can be accessed when taking off the diff cover.  

Thanks in advance for any help.  

Roberto.

12 minutes ago, zinz said:

 

Jim’s is somewhat different these days...but still awesome  

 

Ed

That's real nice but not an option for me.  Thanks. 

52 minutes ago, tzei said:

If you want EFI then source 1.8i L-jet system and put that to 320 engine. Done this and it was good.

Hi, To tell you the truth, I'm not really sure what I want.  I have not looked into installing a EFI system.  I'm currently just waving my options with what is currently available to me.  My first response to the thread was simply to gain more information after reading the responses about trashing the CIS system.  I would rather not source parts from a 3rd bmw to upgrade the fuel injection system on the 320i engine but if that is the only option, I will dig deeper into that.  Im just wondering what if any parts of the 320i fuel injection system can be used for the modification mentioned by JimK, and if that modification can be done without sourcing parts from a 3rd BMW.  

Thanks. 

Thanks so much for the info guys.  Really good advice!  Got a question about the CIS for Toby and JimK (Awesome looking set up by the way JimK).  Without going into too much detail.  How complex is it to get a set up like Jimk's and would i have to source parts from other BMW Cars.  Could I use some of the Fuel injection parts from the 320i?  I guess my question is, since you guys say to throw away the CIS, is it worth installing that 320i engine if you guys say the CIS is garbage.  Im thinking I can drop the 320i engine in without making major modifications to the car, drive it for a while and if the CIS gives me problems down the road than I can do a more modern Fuel Injection conversion at that time.  Keep in mind, the 320i engine was rebuilt 50,000 miles ago (not sure if they rebuilt the fuel injection system) and my current 2002 engine is on its way out. 

Thanks again,

Roberto 

So I need to rebuild my engine in my 76 carbureted 2002.  I can either rebuild my engine or I have the option of buying a 1979 320i with a fuel injected M10 engine that was rebuilt 50k miles ago.  I can get the 320i for $500 so I'm leaning towards that option if its a relatively easy engine swap.

Here's my question for someone that may have done this swap: Aside from dropping the engine in, what modifications need to be made to my car for the engine to work?  I know the throttle linkage will be different.  Are there alot of electric changes that need to be made?  Do I need to make changes to the fuel delivery (I have an electrical fuel pump now)?  Lastly, I have an aluminum radiator that should work on both engines.  

Thanks,

Roberto 

1 minute ago, spuriouspseudo said:

Oh hey...  I think that those are my files, unless I'm mistaken.

Can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2848355

 

We should keep a log out of materials used and whether they're lasting or not...  I did mine out of ABS.

 

I think that I'll post up a thread later on tonight...  doslucero, be sure to look for it and add your pics and any advice.

Yes they are.  I didn't know if you wanted your name mentioned.  Thanks again!  The parts are working great!  I'll keep an eye out for your post. 

Finally fixed the sunroof.  Ended up saving $600+ by 3D printing the plastic pieces that are prone to breaking and put them on the existing cables. Thanks to a FAQ member for supplying me with the 3D printing files.  Apologies for the messy pictures, it was a bit of a dirty job.  Lots of 40+ years of dust and dirt in the sunroof tracks. 

Thanks for your guys responses.  I ended up fixing the issue.  I first put the drivers side drum on the passenger side and it did not stick so I ruled out the drum as the issue.  I accidentally bought a 3rd handbrake cable and i decided to swap it for the one I just put on the drivers side just to see if it made a difference.  It did and the rear brake doesn't stay stuck anymore.  Since it was due to the cable, I'm guessing it was the spring because I checked all parts of the cable to make sure it was seeded correctly.  After inspecting the new faulty cable once i pulled it off the car, I didn't notice anything bad about it though.  Thanks again for your help.  

I'm stumped.  I just replaced both handbrake cables cause the handbrake was not working (wheels were spinning freely with handbrake on or not) and now the drivers side rear wheel stays stuck (does not spin) after releasing the handbrake or after releasing the brake pedal.  The passenger rear wheel spins just fine after releasing handbrake.  Im wondering what it could be.

Things to note:

-One of the adjuster bolts on the drivers side rear wheel was stuck but I got it turning.

-Engaging handbrake with drum off moves pads in and out but with drum on, it gets stuck when engaging and releasing handbrake

-I bled the brake

-I'm able to get the wheel spinning again as soon as I wiggle the drum off (with alot of effort) and place it back on. (very strange)

-Caliper looks old but is not leaking

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Selling a set of front bumper guards in good condition. 

Installed a new water pump, radiator, electric fan and fan switch.  Pretty straight forward job.  Had to drill a couple holes for the radiator and got all the wiring parts needed at the local auto parts store. 

Thanks for the reply guys.  I'll look into a 90 degree drill.  There are still two bolts holding the bracket to the engine block which is a good thing but I would like to fix this sooner than later and I would like to do it without having to pull the engine.  

I just bought some new motor mounts and was planning on installing them and noticed a possible broken bolt where the motor mount bracket attaches to the engine block.  This is on the passenger side.  The motor seems to be pretty secure despite the broken bolt because I've been driving it for the last year.  I was wondering if anyone can help me with some options on what to do since I cant get a normal hand drill down there to tap it out.  

Thanks, 

Roberto 

Thanks for the info guys.  I checked the float level and it looks to be correct.  

Hi,

I am having some starting issues with my 76.  It has a 32/36 weber and a electric fuel pump that is regulated at 3.5psi and I believe the issue is fuel related.  I just put a new 32/36 weber carb on with a manual choke.  The issue I was having with the old water choke 32/36 was that on the first attempt at starting the car, it would crank over but then immediately die when putting foot on gas.  Then every attempt after that to start the car would result in it cranking forever but never turning over.  I would have to wait 24 hours to try it again where it would crank over on the first attempt but typically die when pushing the gas pedal.  

Now with the new carb, It will start on the first attempt with the choke fully engaged but then after warming up the car and turning it off, then trying to restart it, it will crank continuously and never start.

I think that I am flooding the engine since the car needs to sit for a day before starting again but this is an issue with both the old and new carb and I have checked the float levels and they look to be correct.  

Could it be anything else? 

Thanks,

Roberto  

Looking for a dip stick.  Mine is shot and the rubber part completely disintegrated.  My car is a 1976, not sure if that matters.  

Thanks,

Roberto 

I'm interested.

Just sent you a message.  

I'm looking for a used rear bumper.  Preferably short style.  Looking for something in the $350 range if possible. 

Thanks. 

My advice is to buy a welder.  Or borrow one in my case.  No need for gas, just a mig that plugs into a regular socket works fine. 

I was in your same position more than a year ago.  Never welded, had rusted floor boards.  The task looked far beyond what I thought possible given my skillset but once I started it, it was a pretty straightforward easy process, just time consuming, and so satisfying at the end.  

A family member let me borrow a welder, he showed me how to turn the machine on and that was it.  I learned how to weld on my floor boards.  I saved a ton of money and now know how to weld.  

Don't let the unknown deter you.  Anyone can do this task.  You can buy all the stuff you need at harbor freight for pretty cheap if you're on a budget.  Not the best tools but who cares, they work.  

Here is a link to my blog post about welding my floor boards.  

Looking for an early rear bumper to replace my diving board.  Just got a front bumper so need to get the rear.  I prefer the shorty bumpers but not super picky. 

Not looking for a prefect bumper.  I don't mind if it needs some work.  

Thanks,

Roberto