doslucero

BBS RA wheels (15x6): $375, I stripped them to bare metal and found a small crack on one of the wheels.  The wheels are in decent shape.  They are from a VW.  Local pickup only right now. 

Seatbelts:  $75.  They need to be restored

Fuel Fume box thing: $10

Passenger Rocker panel: $50, This is a new part that I didn't have to use when fixing my car.  Will throw in additional pieces from the drivers side.  Local pickup only. 

Beltline trim: Driver quality trim.  Not pictured but will get some this weekend.  Complete set.  There are some blemishes. $250.  Also have some lower trim that is pretty trashed but will throw that in if you want. 

Arm rests (rear): $30, They are in good shape but I sprayed one with black vinyl spray as a test.  

Welcome!  I believe these wheels are modified early Porsche or early VW bus/bug wheels.  I've always loved this look but I'm sure quite a a lot of work went into making these work.  

5 hours ago, mbausa2001 said:

Having said that, I'm just trying to reimburse myself at $10 per hour for all the time & efforts I've put into this. People should not forget to cost out the time they put into bringing a car to a good status.   Nonetheless, I do value your opinion.

 I think its kind of common knowledge that when it comes time to sell a vehicle you restored, you never get paid for the labor or time you spent on the project.  The only way you can add labor, efforts, research, crying, loss of fingers, divorce, etc. to a price is if you build it for someone else who's willing to pay you a lot of money.  If I calculated the countless hours I've spent working on my car and added it to the price of my car,  I could probably sell it for a million dollars.  People are only going to pay around what the common value is for a car.  While our cars continue to go up, one cant expect to sell a car for $30,000 when many similar condition cars are selling for $13,000 (unless you get lucky!).  No disrespect, I hope you get over what you're asking for the car, I just think your selling points may be a little off.  Good luck if you do decide to sell it. 

Thanks for all the info guys.  Guess I have to keep looking. 

Thanks so much for the info guys! 

Quick question.  What if its a 91-92 getrag 240?  I haven't seen any info on other than the 84-85 ones.  

Here is the bottom of the transmission.  It has two mounting points.  So, from what you guys are telling me, its a later one that will still work on a 2002, just no mechanical speedo.  

Thanks for the info Preyupy.  Unfortunately I don't have the transmission in my possession.  Trying to work with the seller to get some more information on it.  I'll see if I can get some more pictures of the areas you said to look.  

I'm trying to figure out what year 318 this getrag is from?  The number on the transmission is 240.0.0490.90.  Also trying to figure out how I can tell if it has a mechanical speedo input.  I appreciate any help.  

I had the same problem.  One shock retracted while the other was stuck.  After trying to hammer on the shock with it still on the car, it still didn't budge.  I unbolted the shock and pulled it off the car (pretty easy, only one bolt, given you took off the bumper already).  Then I stood the shock upright and hammered on it with a sledge hammer (place a piece of wood on top where you are hammering).  It eventually retracted but I had to hit it pretty hard.  You could probably put it in a vice if you have one (I didn't).  Also, if the shock that is stuck is on the drivers side, take out the battery to get to the bolt (BMW cut a hole in the battery tray for easy access to the bolt.  Good luck. 

Hi rmoore007ri,  Yes I am still looking for an early bumper.  

Thanks for the info Buckeye.  I'll be using your write up when I do the bearing install this weekend.  

Thanks for the reply guys.  It was just strange that the companies that sold the kit's also sold the individual bearings and seals for a fraction of the cost for the kit.  I could see getting generic ball bearings for cheap but these bearing are Koyo and the exact ones that are part of the kit.  

When you took off the old flex lines on the passenger front, did you notice alot of brake fluid coming from the hard lines?  Or was it clogged?  You can rule out the caliper since you put a new one in.  You could try bleeding again, but also you could follow the line up toward the brake master cylinder to find the cause of you not getting fluid coming out the inner bleeder on the caliper.  There is rarely an issue with the hard brake lines, so you could take a look at the brake master cylinder, brake booster or linkage going from the brake pedal to the brake booster.  Sometimes the rod holding the pedals (under the carpet) gets rusted and give issues, sometimes the linkage from pedal to brake booster needs lubricating and in my case, the brake pedal would not retract because the bolt that helps pivot the pedal linkage to the brake booster was too tight (had to take me replacing all flex brake lines to find this).  You could also check the brake booster vacuum hose to make sure it has vacuum, check the check valve too on that same hose to make sure its the right way and that its working.  

In regards to not being able to get to reverse,  Sounds like you need to tighten the shifter plate under the car that stabilizes the stick shift and possibly get a shifter rebuild kit to fix the slop.  When I got my car, I could move the shifter a few inches in all directions in every gear,  I found it very hard to put it in reverse.  

So I've been searching online for the parts I need to replace the rear wheel bearings.  I've noticed that the price for the rear bearing kit's are around $80 (for one wheel).  These kits include inner and outer bearings, 2 seals and a cotter pin.  3 sites I normally buy from have a similar kit.  But on these sites, you can buy 4 individual rear bearings, and 4 individual rear seals for a total of around $35.  What am I missing here other than the cotter pin?  Surely a cotter pin doesn't account for the $100+ difference.  Does anyone have experience buying the kits?  Do they come with additional parts not listed?  

Thanks, 
Roberto 

I'm looking for an early rear bumper to replace my late model US bumper.  I want to spend less than $200 so I'm not looking for something in mint condition.  Preferably a short bumper but not picky.  I'm located in Phoenix, AZ.

Thanks,

Roberto 

Thanks everyone for the comments.  I'm leaning towards rebuilding the frigiking now.  After looking around the car though I see that I need to purchase a compressor, condenser and fan since they are not on the car.  I was hoping that after 40+ years someone would have developed a smaller, more powerful and more technologically advanced A/C unit that can be put in these cars but It looks like the old A/C units (when rebuilt) work about as good as anything else you can find on the internet now.  

I'm looking for some advice on whether I should try to rebuild a frigiking A/C unit or install a newer underdash aftermarket unit in my 76 2002.  The frigiking unit looks pretty beat up.  It was not working when I got the car a year ago so I pulled it out of the car.  It is also missing some knobs and has some cracks. 

I'm not concerned about having a period correct A/C unit.  I would like to have an A/C unit that works since I live in the desert and I'm wondering if anyone has experience using something newer and smaller than the frigiking.

I also am wondering about the installation and if it would be easier to rebuild the frigiking since it was already in the car or go with a newer underdash unit and how difficult that would be to install all the components that go along with the actual A/C unit. 

Thanks, 

Roberto 

While the e30 seats are very nice, the difficulty with having them in the 2002 is that they either sit very high on the stock 2002 mounts, or I've seen people cut out the stock mounts all together and sit the e30 seats on the floor.  e30 seats were designed to sit on the floor of e30 cars (not on mounts).  Looks like you have some decent carpet in the car and it would be a bit of an undertaking to cut out the mounts and drill holes to fit the e30's to the floor.  My advise is to drive the car as is till you can find some original 2002 seats or recaros that are better suited for the stock mounts.  When I got my 02, I found some e30 seats thinking they would be an easy fit.  After deciding I didn't want to cut up the stock mounts, I sold them and bought some recaro style seats that required far less fab work that e30's.  

2 hours ago, Driv3r said:

 

I have the plastic elbow and my car has sunroof. This plug was in my spare box. Should I remove the elbows and use plugs?

 

I've found in my research that the elbows are used to ventilate the cabin and typically sunroof cars do not have them so its interesting that you have both elbows and sunroof.   I don't think it really matters whether you use the plugs, elbows or no plugs.  The only reason I could see the elbows being useful is if you want to keep the cabin extra fresh and make sure there are no exhaust fumes traveling into the cabin from the trunk.  

15 hours ago, jgerock said:

Front hoses are a bear to remove. Try pulling up instead of down. I reused my originals since I couldn't easily locate the proper diameter hose from Lowes or Home Depot.  Spray a little lube down the A pillar and remove the antenna before pulling on the hoses.

Thanks.  I've tried pulling from the bottom and top.  The tube is softening from me pulling on it so much and I'm afraid its going to tear from inside the tunnel.  The tubes themselves look like they have barnacles growing in and on them and are completely clogged so that doesn't help either.  

Keys: 

My experience: my car only had one key that worked for the ignition when I bought it.  The key would not turn the door locks or open the doors.  Instead of forcing the key and potentially ruining the ignition key, I took the door handles off.  Its real easy, two screws on the inside of the door (no messing with pulleys or latches or anything).  I took the door handles to a locksmith, got new keys for each door, then lubed the door locks (luckily mine were not internally broken), then put the door handles back on and started using the keys.  The door locks were a bit sticky at first but now work great.  

These cars are pretty simple and relatively easy to take apart and fix.  I'm guessing your car runs.  Thats good. Check for hidden rust around the pedal box and front floor boards, as well as rocker panels and rear wheel wells (look in trunk).  

If I was you, I'd get it running good, get electrical gremlins figured out, tackle the rust, brakes, suspension, then all the other fun little stuff.

Haynes has a manual for the 2002 but I stopped using it when I discovered this website.  This website is a godsend for working on these cars.  If you have an issue with your car, chances are 10 people have already figured out how to fix it and wrote about it on here.  It's a little tricky to figure out how to navigate the website at first.  

Good luck! 

Hi Jgerock, 

Thanks you for the pictures.  Great job by the way.  I bought all the items to do it the way you did, but after putting the new hoses in, It was a really easy route to the plug holes since there is already a hole between the trunk and the cabin right where the hose comes down from the roof tunnel.  The hoses are already currently going out the plug holes.  And I thought, why drill holes in my wheel wells if I can route them out these existing holes.  I'm gonna try it this way and see how it goes.  I really appreciate the info.

I do have a question for you though.  I'm having a hell of a time getting the front hoses out.  Any advice?  

Thanks for the info Rocky and Steve.  Rocky,  How much for the 1?  Steve, Do you know how I can narrow down the search on that website?  I've scoured many pages and cant find them.  Any clue to what category they are in?  

Thanks. 

I'm looking for the oval plugs you find on the side of the trunk when you lift the trunk lid.  You find the plugs on sunroof cars.  I'm looking to modify them so that the rear sunroof drain tubes terminate where the plugs are.