sam1904

9 hours ago, fastricky said:

I'll go the other way and say a nicely done all Pastel Blau car is rare and a beautiful thing to behold. One of my fav colors.

Agreed 100%, this is a short - medium term step - end goal is a respray, maybe from the shell up. CV environment as it is though now isn't the time so I thought this would be a stop gap to hide the primer where I removed the trim...

51 minutes ago, mike said:

It's gonna be tricky wrapping the roof on a sunroof car; you'll have to remove the sunroof panel to wrap the material around the sunroof's edges, and it's gonna be tricky to do the wrap on three sides of the roof panel itself where it meets the sunroof opening because the weatherstrip is glued to the edge of the opening on the front and sides.  

 

mike

Agreed and know it wot be perfect. I need new sunroof seals anyway so was going to remove, wrap, replace! Even if i needed to wrap and trim up to the seal (and hence maybe have a 0.010" gap) I also don't think it would be the end of the world on this car. As it is going to look like a wrap I may even leave an 1/8" wrap from some features (E.g. waist trip, sunroof seal etc).

Thanks

Sam

48 minutes ago, esty said:

if you'll like it, go for it...one of mine is red/white

Thanks - painted or wrapped?

All,

Would love your input. I have a 76’ in pastel blau (or a slightly bluer shade from a previous owner respray). I then removed the knee trim and fixed a roof rust issue with a plan of repainting. I am now delaying the repainting plan and thinking of ways to cover the welding and primer…. (first pic). My thought is to try and recreate the blue / white color scheme as shown in picture two. My thought is prep the surface and get it nice and smooth and them wrap the car below the waist trim. I may not do the ‘A’ and ‘B’ pillars as this would be tricky (see below) but will also do a white wrap on the roof and then replace the sunroof seal.

What do you think?

1. Will white and pastel blau look close to that below?
2. Thoughts on the wrapping approach?

Thanks

Sam

Maybe the fact that with wide open throttle it pulls really strongly to 90 mph suggests that there is a damn vacuum leak? I am assuming it would be completely overwhelmed due to the higher volumetric flow at higher RPM’s?

Thanks All. Will fix the wire routing. Now I have the car running the same as it was again, running OK but with a lumpy idle.

As before if I pull the plug leads 1 or 2 the engine stumbles and dies, if I pull plug lead 3 it hiccups a little bit and if I pull #4 there is  no impact. So whatever is causing my idle issue is resulting in a dead cylinder number 4 and cylinder number 3 that is not really carrying its weight.  I haven’t done this at high rpm to see if the same is happening under those conditions.
 

I’ve sprayed carb cleaner Anywhere where there may be a vacuum leak with no effect.

Thinking what else could cause an issue just in one or two cylinders. I need to check the valve clearance again, could this do it?

Maybe time to take it to an ‘expert’! (Lucky that we have two in Asheville)

 Thanks

 Sam

Thanks for the information, I would imagine everyone is getting a little tired of my questions by page 6!

So if I look at the image below are my current set up you are saying essentially replace lead number four with lead number one and then just connect 1342 clockwise?

Unfortunately not, it is just a little diagonal scratch.Unfortunately not, it is just a little diagonal scratch.

No mark on dist!

15 hours ago, John76 said:

Sam,  Looks like the firing order is correct....but where is the rotor pointing???

Take the cap off. Make sure the rotor is pointing to the scribe mark on the inside edge of the dizzy when the TDC line is showing through the oval hole (on bellhousing). If not, rotate engine one full turn and check the rotor again.

It should be pointing to the #1 plug.

If your dizzy was removed, you need to make sure the rotor was hitting the reference mark after it is bottomed in the housing.

This makes up for the helical gear off-set.

I labeled your picture with the order I have.

 

Hey John, if you get a minute could you please check out below and let me know your thoughts. 

• I set the flywheel at TDC, have both lobes down / valves closed on #1 (firing?) and the rotor appears to be pointing at #4?
• This is how the distributor and leads have been for over a month unless something very strange has happened.
• Per your write up should the rotor not be pointing at #1?

I have the IE Ti distributor and also cannot identify any 'scribe mark??' on the edge?

Many thanks

Thanks, I will do and I’m also going to check the valves again tomorrow. I should be clear though I did not remove the distributor (have driven the car 200 miles since it was timed and that white mark out on a a reference between it and head), just removed the cap and the leads to check the lead resistance hence my confusion!

OK did some reading and pulled apart the spare carb I had. Is there anyway to test if this thing is working or is it a visual inspection?

Sorry for the obvious question. What is the power valve!?

If I keep trying to figure this out am I in danger of destroying the carb with this ignition in the intake?

Just to make sure I am not getting this wrong. Too retard the timing I turn in the same direction as the rotor, e.g. clockwise from above?

I am completely baffled. The only thing I touched was the plug leads. I’ve checked they are all in the correct order, 1342 clockwise and the timing as is at the same Mark but it has been for the last week or so where it ran fine, if a little lumpy at idle.

OK, something else! The good news is I did make some progress this morning and got the steering box in and the exhaust straightened out. I then checked the resistance on the plug wires and pulled the plugs which all looked a little cleaner. When I put everything back together and after verifying several times all leads in place and in the correct order I now have this very large popping through my intake? 

23 hours ago, Roland said:

I have been trying to follow your travails and still go back to the "easy-to-overlook" subjects.  It goes without saying that I may have missed something along the way.

 

You mentioned setting valve lash.  What setting did you use, and did you perform the task with the engine cold or warm?

 

As I indicated previously, I have witnessed better M10 engine operation with copper core spark plugs as opposed to fine wire plugs.  However, the differences may not have been as dramatic as most seem to experience, assuming similar branding, heat ranges and gaps.  You stated that your fine wire plugs did not evidence the same fouling as the replacement copper core plugs.  What plug gaps are you using?  I am assuming that your iridium plugs had a large preset gap and the NGK's may have been much smaller.  Without faulting either plug type, something changed ignition or fuel wise.  And, while a vacuum leak or leaks can play havoc with engine operation, are the plug readings the same for all cylinders - or just 3 and 4?

 

I have a little different take on ignition timing settings, considering certain unknowns regarding your engine.  A timing light is a wonderful diagnostic tool, but so are your eyes, ears and nose.  Your engine has likely changed since it was manufactured, allowing for the possibility that original recommendations are merely baseline settings, so that your engine may benefit from different ignition settings.  (Changes can come in all shapes and sizes.  This includes reground or worn cam lobes or resurfaced valve rocker heels - any or all of which can be easily overlooked and can affect valve timing.)  Using a timing light might inhibit your attempt to experiment beyond normal recommendations, so assuming you are not dealing with a vacuum leak or an obvious jetting problem, I would consider significantly more ignition timing - if nothing else, but to lean things out at idle.

 

 

 

Roland - firstly thank you for taking this time to help!. The issue is obviously I need to upgrade my wardrobe!

• I did set valves a few months ago but cannot remember the specifics. I assume I just followed the Haynes instructions...
• All plugs looked fouled but I think this may be excessive start / stop with choke and idling. When pulling the plugs it definitely seemed that 1 & 2 were doing all the work at idle.
• When I have been playing with timing by ear I have noticed that the current set point (33@3300rpm / 14ish at idle) is right on the edge of the idle falling off. It sounded better with a few more degrees of distributor cap rotation CCW when viewed from above but I thought that would be 'bad' (?). You mention 'more' timing - I assume this is what that refers to - More advance?

Many thanks

Sam

On 4/13/2020 at 4:39 PM, Mark92131 said:

 

Sam1904:

 

That connection uses standard push-on vacuum hose, no clamps required.  If you are using clamps, you are probably using a hose with the wrong ID.

 

Mark92131

Thanks and agree. Trying to avoid TOO many visits to Auto store right now so used what I had on hand (BMW R100GS fuel line in this case). Will get some right size vacuum tubing ext trip!

Maybe - but sometimes you just have to let it go. I am also 46 years old with 200K++ hard miles and I smoke a little too. It is what it is

With that said...I'll look into it!

After being publicly flogged in this forum for my Iridium plugs ;) I switched to the BP6ES plugs as instructed!

All plugs are in identical condition, I am also not that concerned about blow by as when I took the iridium plugs out they were not fouled and looked much cleaner.

With that said I do occasionally get a big cloud of blackish / blueish smoke at lift of after heavy WOT.....

Thanks

I just panted over my white paint on the ball and painted the TDC line and will try again....

On another note I pulled the plugs (new two days and zero miles ago) and they now look very rich. I jetted the 32/36 per C.D's prescription with two F50 emulsion tubes. The car seems to run best with the idle mix screw about 1 1/2 turns out.

Before I chase this issue could this issue be that I have had the car sat idling on jack stands for long periods of time as I chased other issues?

Thanks

Sam

16 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

To set your timing, plug/cap the vacuum line to your distributor, use the idle speed screw on the Weber to set your idle at 1400 RPM, use your timing light in the flywheel hole and slowly turn your distributor to find the ball at 25 degrees BTDC.  Lock the distributor down, connect the vacuum line, reset the idle to 900, then use your variable timing light to map your advance curve from idle to 2700+ RPM.  You should be around 10 - 12 degrees a idle, 25 degrees at 1400 RPM and 38 - 42 degrees at 2700+ RPM.  If you aren't getting these values, or the ball is jumping around in the hole, consider a distributor rebuild or investing in a 123 ignition distributor.

 

Also, the "OT" symbol isn't TDC, the line is TDC.  When the TDC line on the flywheel is lined up with the front edge of the flywheel hole, the line on your CAM should line up with the oil bar and your rotor should be on the #1 spark plug lead.

 

Mark92131

 

 

 

 

Thanks Mark, I just installed the IE Tii Distributor with electric igniter (mechanical, not vacuum advance). The instructions their suggested 33-35 Deg at 3300 RPM Which should result in 12-14 Deg at idle. Given this curve I am not sure 25 Deg at 1400 RPM is stil valid. I also need to find a good way to mark the timing points through the hole!

Fuel bypass valve shown on left. Vacuum leak was on connection to the curved input on the bottom shown by arrow on right.

OK, 90% better!

Plugged the booster line which helped 10%. The real help was the vacuum line to the bottom of the fuel bypass. As you know that fitting has a 90 degree radius and my line was just a little too large. Replaced with a different hose and added new hose clamps. 

Seems to be MUCH better now

My last question for now. Still trying to measure timing. Can you please check my logic below and let me know if I am missing something.

1. Using variable timing light
2. Painted the ball which I believe is at 25 Deg advance
3. Looking for 32-34 Degrees of advance at 3300 RPM so set advance on the light to 9 degrees.
   1. 25+9 = 34 degrees (PICTURE  1)
4. Can see the ball and it holds steady.
5. Next idle. A comment above stated you cannot see/use the ball at idle.
6. As I expect advance to be around 14 Deg my logic is (25 MINUS 14 =11)
7. As such I am setting the light to 79 Degrees (90-11) (PICTURE 2)
8. I then go back and forward but can still cannot see the ball.

Can I set less than 0/90 (retard?) and use the math as above with the 25Deg ball?

Thanks

Sam