sam1904

Just curious....

Just noticed these yellow and red paint rings on my cam and could not find anything on the Google or forums...

What do they mean, does it mean aftermarket or are they factory marks?

 Many thanks!

 Sam

20 minutes ago, KFunk said:

I'm a little confused, because IE's website says right in the description that those stacks do not fit the sleeve style, they only fit the tab style

"These 4″ velocity stacks fit 40DCOE carburetors with tab-style stack retainers, and fasten using the original Weber mounting studs and clips........These are intended for Spanish-made Weber 40DCOE Type 151, not meant for the old Italian-made webers. These stacks do not extend down in between the venturi and carb body. The venturi on Spanish Weber 40DCOE’s are held in place by a set screw. "

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/4-angled-velocity-stacks-for-40-dcoe-carbs/

 

Why anyone at IE would tell you different than their own website, I have no idea.

You are correct - if I had read and fully understood (which I didn't as I had never had my hands on the carbs) the description I would have known exactly what I was getting which is exactly as described. The aux venturis do indeed seem very solid with the set screw and without the sleeve so although not mechanically perfect likely a case of "works just fine, dont overthink it". 

I do wish there was not such a diameter difference that causes then to be hard too install and "untidy" but again sure they will work.(without the sleeve that centers them they fall too the bottom when installing, the tabs rotate and they fall out. When tightened up hopefully they stay in place!.....)

So for now a workable option as when I pull the pod filters the stacks are right there to drop my squirrel cages in...

On the afore mentioned call it was also mentioned the aux venturis are held in by a screw...

I don’t like it but it will get me down the road. 

This is my road car and it’s really dusty around here so I was looking to run the filter set up shown in the picture below.
 

I spoke to someone at IE (the owner?) and he stated that these parts are for the 40s, the sleeve is not needed and any small amount of air that bypasses the Stack because of the excessive diametral gap will not be an issue...

Not sure if I should cut the sleeves off the original trumpets and slide them in the gap to plug the hole?

thanks but those are what came on the carb and I have.

Am looking to add a filter and need an angled stack toclear the booster.

Sam

Do you wear a cape?

Let me know what you have and if it works I will just return the IE parts....

P.s linkage is on a and seems to work great!

Thanks!

it looks like if the right size the 45DCOE stacks above are more in line with what came off?

All, I am a little confused which will come as no suprises to those off you who have read other posts of mine!

I am installing a pair of 40 DCOE's and using Ireland 4" velocity stacks. When I remove the stock horns there is a sleeve that slides into the carb that the stacks don't have and the location diameter is about 2mm larger (A vs. b. ) When I mate up the stacks they are diametrically very loose. I am sure the tabs may center then a little but this and the lack of sleeve doesn't seem right??

Do I have the right parts?

Thanks

Sam

6 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

Sam you have a trunk mounted battery already. There are a 100 other potential spark sources besides the fuel pump. It will be fine. I did mount a inertia fuel cutoff switch next to the fuel pump so in an accident the fuel pump is cutoff.

I agree. (And think about it every time I hook the terminals up ? )

I did just receive one initial cut off switch but I’m concerned at how easily it trips and am convinced that any railroad crossing would kill my fuel pump.
I’m going to go ahead and install without but then add in the recommended Ford switch as soon as I can find one. 

Hotwin First Inertia Switch Vehicle Crash Sensor Standard Ignition Electric Fuel Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBK4873/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kEJ6FbFYKJY64?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

5 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

Just give the arm a slight tweak to the right. That's how both of my arms are.

Thanks, I am going to actually use a different linkage but that would have been an option if not. With such a short radius I was a little worried about shortening it too much but as noted above 'its not that complicated -  just a 4-bar linkage trying to turn a rod!!

13 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

That's why I mounted my fuel pump underneath the car and used the metal return line instead of the plastic one in the passenger compartment. Don't want to get sick off of gas fumes and crash your 2002.

Thanks. I was far more worried about blowing myself up!

Thanks all. I decided to go with a new linkage from halboyles. Didn’t want to grind the boss off, wanted to avoid idle sync issues. 
As an FYI even a carriage bolt would not have worked, around 1mm clearance!

I was looking at this this afternoon and wishing I had. One issue is I have this week off to get this done and then will struggle to find time for months. Do you have one in stock you could overnight tomorrow?

Feel fo to PM!

Sam

Hi all.

I am installing my Redline linkage with my new DCOE's and have a contact issue with what appears to be an unused boss on the carb. 

If you see the picture below even after changing to a flat lever warm on the carb there is no room for a bolt head that will not hit the cast boss shown with the threaded hole in it. 

As this boss is unused I was considering cutting it off - am I missing something as I really don't want to hack into new carbs!

Thanks

Sam

Thanks all. 

As the project is a little delayed I decided to order a tap on Amazon and tap out the M12 to a M14 x1.5. That way I can still use the two supplied plugs on the other ports. 

Sam

I see many comments around trunk mounting and have just started installing mine there. The only concern I have is having the pump connections (potential spark source??) In a sealed vessel (trunk) with the gas tank and say any emitted vapors?

Am I worrying about nothing?
Thanks
Sam

Hi all. Revisiting this post as I have a related question.

Converting my 76' 2002 to DCOE's and bought the IE water neck. The position of the temp sensor in the original valve was in the front hole (marked 1) and as you can see it fully protruded into the flow and right at the exit (entrance?) of flow to the head.

I am assuming this is the factory gauge sensor?

With the new neck the front hole is a smaller thread and as such no-go. I could place it in one of the other parts but in each case it would then be in a recessed port and not (as) exposed to flow (pic 2) and much more in line to the flow to/from the radiator as it is further back in the neck.

Would any of this matter such that I should look for another sensor or try and tap the from port?

Many thanks

Sam

2 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

You could order the parts and in the mean time cut a small length of the choke hose and plug it with a bolt and clamp, for now not pretty, but it would work until the plug comes.

Thanks, I actually just found a rubber cap that fits. As it will be under the carbs wanted to install when the manifold is off but will add it after by feel...

Sam

5 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

 

 

#3 and 4 in picture is what you need.

 

 Thanks, was worried you were going to say that. Installing DCOE's starting Thursday and was hoping to not have to order / wait on parts over XMAS!

On 2/9/2015 at 11:23 AM, eurotrash said:

yes, I think that is the other water choke connection.  I pulled mine and put a bolt in its place. 

Blast from the past post for you!

This may seem like a simple question 'how do I plug a hole' but I would rather ask than have a weeping coolant leak after the DCOE's go on!

So.....

how did you plug the hole?! 

I noted the machined face on the fitting/nipple I removed, did you use a plain bolt and a brass washer or something similar to get a good flush seal or just torque a bolt up?

Thanks

Sam

On 8/28/2020 at 3:59 PM, Conserv said:

You are smokin’ today, Mark!

 

Next week, you and John will face off in the new FAQ game: Name this Hole!

 

Yes, yes, and more yeses. The 49-state also uses the T1 temperature sensor on the topside, shown in this photo of my (uncleaned) spare, between the number 3 and 4 runners. On runner number 1, the bracket for the fuel return valve is still in place and there is a rubber cap on the nipple for the diverter valve.

Firstly, this is a great find - thank you so much. Have reviewed along with several other posts but still have a question about my T1 and T2 sensors. (in my case T1 also appears to be a ground for the electric choke on my 32/36). I have the parts arriving this week for a DCOE conversion and am tearing down / prepping.... As such two questions:

1. Am I correct in assuming that the 'gauge' temp sensor is the one in the water neck and I can just remove T1 and T2 (I have de-smogged car)?
2. If so do I leave the circuit open, close it or does it not matter?

Many thanks all,

Sam

p.s. when I say "prepping"...... As the parts are delayed by a couple of weeks prepping has turned into "while you are in there" and got very out of hand. If they don't arrive soon I will have catalogued baggies containing EVERY part of the entirely disassembled car.....

I am going to jump into this thread also! I have been chasing a ‘rattle’. I have removed all mechanical rattles (e.g. loose heat shields etc) and am now looking at timing chain. The noise is a ‘tappitity’ rattle only on overrun / lift off after throttle lift off and mostly when cold (or at least noisier). I pulled the chain cover and the pics are below. I clamped the chain with  at 3 and 9 I can lift it about 2-4mm. 
any thoughts?

Thanks

Sam

21 hours ago, man_mark_7 said:

When I lose things to tinker on with the car, that is when I begin to lose interest in the car. 

This is so true.

When my wife asks "why is there always something to 'fix' on 'Billie' (the blue car). (She doesn't mind, just is curious)

She doesn't realize there isn't always something to fix - I actually spend half the time looking for things / changes to 'fix' and the other half fixing them!

To drive the car makes me genuinely happy and calms me enormously but it is working on it that is my 'Zen' time!

As I side note due to maturing ( ;0), marrying and having my daughter later I have been fortunate enough to endanger retirement by drive for me what are some stunning cars... (Not supercar exotica but several very fun old 911's, True AMG's, E46 M3's, Fun VW's, 205GTI's, Mini GP1's etc...) - I can honestly say maintaining modest speed on skinny tires on beautiful roads in this car while watching the smoke out the back is potentially my happiest car place!

21 minutes ago, M2M3 said:

you left out an option...

 

single 45(or 40) DCOE.

 

probably the best option for you.  long runners.  better mixture management than duals. cheaper and easier to setup and tune.  looks cool.  sidedraft noise.  more than enough carb for a stock engine.  there is a manifold made specifically for this.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss, in this case it was just ignorance. I Will look into it! From first quick review seems a little less daunting and less associated knock on changes (Cooling lines, booster etc.?)

I assume the Lynx kit?

https://www.lynxauto.com.au/bmw-2002-45-dcoe-weber-kit.html