sam1904

22 minutes ago, kbmb02 said:

@sam1904 Whichever you choose (I’d suggest the 38/38), you’d benefit from having your Tii distributor modified so that the ignition advance curve is more suitable to your carbureted engine. -KB

Thanks, I'll do some Googling on this. Is it something that can be done at home or a 'send it away to someone' type job? (I do not have and machining capabilities here)

Thanks all, have started a DCOE spreadsheet (my other guilty pleasure) and am looking into going that way.

Reading this reminded me how much I missed the beauty of a great looking set up! (picture pre-kid ) 

Thanks for the input!

(No issues with learning to drive the DCOE's - I have not been without at least one carbureted car and bike at all time in two decades!)

All,

I am seeking some wisdom around a carb change. I am also aware that there are many posts on this matter, books and other areas of wisdom and can promise you I have read them all! I have however still got some questions to ensure I am interpreting and applying what I read correctly.

I have a mostly stock, de-smogged 76 motor with stock compression, Tii distributor and IE Street/Track Step-Style header and 2½” stainless system. I am currently running a 32/36 that was jetted per recommendations on this site (and ran well) and then added a sync link and again re-jetted per recommendations (running very rich now..). Aside from the richness I really enjoyed moving the torque down the throttle response curve with the sync link and the sensation of more power (even if none…)

The car is not a DD and is just used for short trips in the NC mountains purely for the joy of driving it ( hard…)

The 32/36 is tired and I want more – ideally similar throttle response to the sync link and if possible more power out of that motor. So 38/38 or 40DCOE’s? Four questions based upon what I have read:

1. Will either or both give me a noticeable power bump with stock cam?
2. I see the comments as to drivability. How do both fair and what does this ‘drivability’ comment actually refer to? (won’t idle, wont start, tip in hesitation etc...??)
3. I see comments as to the ‘issues’ setting up and maintaining the DCOE’s. I am fine doing the leg work to set up if it falls within my abilities and wondered what is the issue with keeping them in tune. If it is just throttle plate adjustment I used to have to tweak my six inlets on the 40IDA’s with a Carb flow meter (AKA the snail) every week. …or is it more than this?? (E.g. float levels, fouling, linkage issues etc.)
4. I hear the praise for the DCOE noise – I assume this is intake noise? (not everything breaths better – exhaust response / noise?)

Many thanks in advance,

Sam

Looking for front door panels, armrests, handles etc for a 76' 02. Black ideally but any color will work. Can refurbish if needed.

Thanks

Sam

Used knife-less tape and white vinyl to accent my numbers / roundels and satisfy my inner 12 year old a little more...!

Pleased with the result.

On 8/17/2016 at 9:25 AM, theNomad said:

I have an ST rear bar so maybe the fine tuning will solve it. Also the new rubber donuts could stand being slightly smaller

 

I found that "pre-loading' the system solved this with my sways.

1. Line up system so it looks good.
2. Tighten everything
3. Loosen clamp between muffler and 'over axle' section
4. Rotate muffler CCW from rear of car - try about 5-10 degrees (may need to tweak - essentially you are dropping the exhaust hangers a couple of inches down from the car)
5. Re tighten
6. Now when you push up on the muffler to close the couple of inch gap you have created it lifts the center section (it does by necessity rotate things a little when going up but as it is 10'+ to the next hard point no issue at all)

Has worked 100% for me and got rid of the rattle!

All

On 5/9/2020 at 10:28 AM, chargin said:

One easy solution to beef up your exhaust note and preserve the wallet would be to simply Eliminate your center muffler, I’ve even seen a local tuner installing the IE in this way new   

All,  here is my experience. First of all a little about me so you know what I was looking for. 46 years old, history of lots of beautiful sounding cars that I miss (E.g. C63 on a downshift or my straight pipes on a 911 3.0 with 40 IDA's!  ) and looking for something that has nice sound to match the non stock looks of Billy but definitely not anything 'ricey', overly noisy (e.g. would make you embarrassed to drive past your neighbors) or with any significant drone. The car has a stock-ish motor.

I started with the IE Step headers and 2.25" stainless system. Beautiful system but although I did not do a back to back test it sounded very stock (Quiet in cabin) to me.

I then had a local shop remove the center resonator. It did not drone at any speed but was a little too loud under wide open throttle. (Basically anyone looking would look 100' ahead because it was louder than it was fast!) The tone was also deeper than I think fits the character of a 4Cyl and this car. Ultimately not for me as I just felt a little self conscious...

I had the same shop put the resonator back in and make me an interchangeable rear section. This replaces the IE (5" diameter) muffler with a 18" magnaflow / flowmaster type small diameter pipe muffler (see pic). I love it! It has a great little raspy sound that fits the car under open throttle but is almost silent on a neutral or trailing throttle. Would recommend!

Let me know of any questions,

Sam

On 5/24/2020 at 12:20 PM, SteadFast said:

Where did you order the meatballs from?

 By meatballs do you mean numbers? If so I created images in PowerPoint and sent them to Fast Signs. were about $50 for two.

Sam

Meet Billie. (or for most of you that have helped fix her and keep her running say hello again!  )

19 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

Uh.... Did ya remove the little wire clip in the cylinder that locks the float in place for shipping? 

 

That'd be something dumb that I promise I never did.

 

Ever.

 

Except that one time I did. 

On the one I got it was a pin and not a clip and yes I did remove it ? it is the type of thing I would do though!

The sender is now working well. As it appears my old one would've been if I had aligned  the tabs and tightened the nut!

6 hours ago, Henning said:

Aluminum and steel weld to each other??

 

h

 

No. Probably not. 

Doesn't look like a friction weld because it is not continuous - likely brazed??

Awesome, thank you so much.
 

I thought I tried every permutation and combination of wires and spades but I must’ve missed the critical one!

4 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

What’s Macgyver about swapping grommets?  Generally speaking, I know they take the liberty of swapping out the grommets before hand (like your buddy experienced).  However, I’m sure in the rush around an expedited order I’m sure it got missed.

 

Super cool looking car.  I like the number placement.

MacGuyver is getting it connected up, filed and bled using parts on hand etc  BEFORE I get the grommets. We have a 12 car drive this Sunday and at the VERY earliest the grommets will get here NEXT Thursday if IE jumps on it today...

9 hours ago, TobyB said:

You can make it work with hardware store parts- and zip ties.  Think racer, not restorer.

 

t

 

Thanks all, it seems we are all on the same page - try and MacGyver it with electrical tape, shrink wrap and something (yet to be determined) stealthily stolen from my wife's keepsake drawer and re-purposed! Don't worry Billie definitely sees herself as 'raced' and not 'restored'! I was hoping there would be a silver bullet and someone would say "those grommets are the same as a Chevy windscreen washer pump!"

10 hours ago, halboyles said:

In a pinch you can use some layers of shrink wrap or electrical tape around the new booster inlet.  And, if you can't find the grommets locally, I have some and could overnight them to you tomorrow.

Thank you so much for the kind offer, if you have some and are going to be at UPS let me know and I can PAYPAL, if not please do not put yourself out. Where did you get them and can I find them the same place locally? (They are not from a Chevy WW Pump are they! ). The grommet I am looking for would have the OD of the large one below (20mm ish and ID of the smaller 8mm ish). The smaller one actually pushes inside the larger but is just a little too unstable to work even though I assume this is a low pressure (atmospheric??) line

9 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Did you order a tii master? If memory serves me the tii cylinder has that raised ridge along the top where on most 02 cylinders its much lower what is the size in mm cast on the side.

I did, 22mm. IE has it as a replacement for the stock "We also recommend using this master cylinder as a functional upgrade for standard 2002’s with dual-circuit front brakes as it has a larger 22mm bore" no mention of MacGyver in the description.... Also as shown a few posts up a buddy ordered the exact same part and it came with 20mm OD / 8mm ID Grommets...

Thanks all,

Sam

Thanks, looks like I am screwed. My buddy ordered the same master cylinder and it came looking like this. These guys are really starting to annoy me.

Thanks. That is an option but I just expedited these parts and worked around the clock all week to get them here to do our ‘mini vintage’ this weekend.
Anything Ireland do is going to be end of next week on the East Coast. 

Just received new brake booster and master from IE and have two issues ....

Booster

The ‘nipple’ for the vacuum hose is smaller than the last booster. (10mm OD plain vs. 12mm barbed). The nipple on the Intake manifold is still 12mm. The elbow on the new booster is bayonet versus push in style of my previous booster. As such I cannot swap them out. I am assuming that I cannot hose clamp compress a 12 mm tube down to 10 mm without a vacuum leak. Any thoughts?

Master cylinder

The ID of the grommets for the elbows feeding fluid from the reservoir to push into are 12 mm on the new master that I received and 8 mm on the old. The tubing from the reservoir still has an 8 mm ID due to the 8 mm nipple on the reservoir. The bushings cannot be changed out between the two master cylinders as the OD of the bushing is also bigger on this new version. I cannot find any elbows that are 8 mm on one end and 12 mm on the other or an imperial alternative. Any thoughts?

Thanks

Sam

I have the IE step headers and IE stainless system on my stock 76 and am disappointment with the sound (very stock)

Any recommendations on what to do/ask local exhaust shop to give it a little more enthusiastic tone (I know - very subjective but looking for something that sounds great but doesn't drone terribly and set off car alarms)  without starting with a new system?

Delete center resonator?

Change muffler?

Thanks

Sam

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/stainless-steel-exhaust-system-2002-late-style/

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/street-track-step-style-header-2002-e21/

5 hours ago, racer86 said:

Hi Sam, 

 

I have the exact same issues. 

 

I removed my intake and exhaust and found no physical obstruction. It's a mystery. Hopefully my manifold comes back on Monday so I can put it back together and try some more stuff. 

 

If it runs with more air, maybe it's over- rich. I'm going to try BP5 plugs so they run hotter and I can run richer. 

 

I have a 4 branch ex manifold and it has been suggested it my be causing scavenging on 3-4 thouh I'm not convinced as I'm on a stock cam...but if you're not could be a factor?

Good thought, it might not be not enough air, it could be way too much fuel in that runner. 

Hmmm. I have it on a stock motor.....

back pressure issue on the twistier #3 and 4 runs?

“This header was designed for race engines with more than 175HP. Our customers have reported dyno results which show these are absolutely the best performing M10 headers on the market. Photo shows header with optional ceramic coating.”

This one with a stock cam......

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/race-step-style-header-2002/

17 minutes ago, flagoworld said:

 

You sure? I Have a set of BP6ES that I swapped for R plugs during the EFI build...

I will tell everybody it is a vacuum leak if you give me those plugs! Those suckers are going to get hard to find ?

2 hours ago, tech71 said:

i dunno... If there were a partial obstruction limiting airflow into #4 you could still be getting fuel in there, possibly a lot of it as in way way rich.  "de atomized" fuel could puddle in the runner, any pressure differential could then draw raw fuel into the cyl. The other 3 cylinders would also likely run rich.

Carburetors....Shades of Fred Flintstone.

Heres another reach to throw out... An obstruction in the exhaust side of that cylinder would also seriously affect proper airflow. Saw that once as a young lad working at a car dealer.  A defect in a double wall exhaust pipe. It was a new car.

Thanks for this, I will check into it. I’ve been thinking so much about the engine breathing in I didn’t think about it breathing out! I did put a new Ireland Engineering exhaust manifold on this thing a while ago and honestly cannot remember if it ran better before I did that!?