paulram

Removed the swaybar tonight.  Picture attached.

Is it safe to assume that even though the small tab that held the bushing in place which is broken (see picture) it wont make a difference with an aftermarket set? The ones I've seen look like they have two holes which means I'd have to drill anyway correct?

Nbcbird...

I have the same pump and plan on installing tonight.  I see you have no filter before the pump... Any reason for this?  Also If you have this filter before the pump, can I eliminate the one I have now before the carb?

Thanks.

 

What you do next depends on which coil you have.

 

If you have a black coil:  you will need either a ballast resistor or a resistor wire, the resistor wire has clear insulation and is located in your blue bundle (just cut the blue sheath and take it out, this only applies to 74-76 cars), otherwise you should have a resistor mounted near the coil, run the wire to there and then on to the coil..

 

I have the clear wire on my 76 which look like it has been through the war.

Where can I find the same type of wire or do I need a resistor?  I tried searching but do not come up with it.

Ok...  So The two wires from smog harness on is in #12 fuse and that does indeed connect to the coil.  I need to replace is it has been spliced three times for who knows what reason.  Can anyone tell me what the second wire would have been for?  It seems to run off fuse 11 (the black and white striped)

As far as I can tell its not being used for anything.  This is the wire that is jumped through two relays and a connector.

So the poll would be...

ST 22 front / 19mm Blunt Rear

or

IE 22mm front/rear

I think I answered my question... when i googled swaybar for 2002,,,

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/139777-sway-bar-options/

i kept hearing a knock and rattle when I went over bumps.  Had the car on ramps today.  A couple of questions.

PO used Urethane bushings on front sway bar but the whole bar is loose and moves.  There are no sway bar bushings.  This may be my noise... Video Attached!

I have to remove the swaybar and fix this.

Should I...

1. Stay with urethane?  I drive on the roads and to work.  I like good handling but a nice ride too. Suggestions?

2. Buy a different sway bar?  I assume this one is stock... Suggestions?  Again I live on a mountain and like driving through the turns but im no racer...

IMG_0236 (1).MOV

Is the cluster grounded somehow without wiring?  I want to see if the ground in my cluster is causing the tach to jump but dont see a grounding wire.  Is it grounded through the harness?  Mounting studs?  Do you run a separate ground on your own?

http://www.my2002tii.com/how_to_dash_gauges.htm

Also, I have no cluster lighting at all but have oil/brights etc.  I need to check the bulbs but if the bulbs are good and my headlights work, how finicky is the dimmer switch to these lights?

At least in this car the interior wiring seems to be in good shape.

I'm sure this is where the smoke comes in as when I had the console and book on it wasn't as bad. The car is dry underneath and does not drip any fluids.  I need to put it on a lift and see.  Just wondering if anything else except the exhaust might be the culprit.

I'm sure this is where the smoke comes in as when I had the console and book on it wasn't as bad. The car is dry underneath and does not drip any fluids.  I need to put it on a lift and see.  Just wondering if anything else except the exhaust might be the culprit.

Preface... I have the smelliest car on the east coast.  Need new seals everywhere and have no console etc, just an old carpet. Gas oil and exhaust permeate my clothes after a long drive.

My car does not smoke on accel or decel but recently when i downshift in higher RPM and there is strain on the motor, my cabin starts to fill with smoke. I never noticed it until I removed the console two weeks ago.  It wasn't much smoke but today I hit an exit ramp at high speed and downshifted to 3rd at high RPM to find my interior with a fair amount of smoke.  Is an oily exhaust smell, not a burning plastic or electrical smell...

It seems to be coming out of the exposed gear shift opening.  Safe to assume a hole in the exhaust???  I haven't lifted it in the air or gone under the care but on initial inspection it looks ok. It would explain alot of my smelliness....

Paul

Thanks I'll take a look.  Out of all those wires, nothing is hooked up except one that leads into blue sheath and disappears into the car.  Don't understand where that is going but evidently is providing the juice I need. thanks for the links to the #12.  If I can run that directly, I can move a mess of wires.  There are so many cut and exposed wires I need to track down.

Quick Recap. New engine dropped in by PO.  Many wires cut, many not reconnected. It seems we may used whatever was convenient to get the car running. so...

I was told that all blue sheathed wires are emissions and should be able to be disconnected.  I have been disconnecting them and seeing the result.  Today I disconnected one that goes into a sensor in the manifold with no problem. Then I disconnected one that went to the coil which shut the car down (see picture of two wires spliced into female connector)  One of those wires (PO used speaker wire) goes to nowhere so no harm but the second wire (the one that when disconnected shut car off) is spliced into the orange relay.  This relay in turn is spliced into the other relay housing with no relay. This is again spliced into another connector.

I guess my question is if the only thing that is connected through all this mess is the wire to the coil (ignition wire?) Can't i get rid of this mess and just rewire it? 

Sorry for this long winded, confusing question.  I don't know where to begin in this decipher and referring to the wiring diagram is great when things aren't butchered, but I have a blue sheathed wire that starts my car.... UGH.  I tried to put these pics in order, spliced wire into orange relay, into relay connector with no relay into connector... 

"Does the squeal happen regardless of whether you're coasting, accelerating or in neutral?"

This is interesting to me as one of the 8 sounds I am trying to diagnose is a high pitched whistle or squealing that sounds like it's coming from the trunk area. Only on acceleration and when take my foot off the gas, it subsides.... Thoughts???

I also have a squeal from the engine which I think is the water pump but that is another story...

Wondering on the quality of the item.  I'm ok with paying the $105 if it supports small business and the guys that run them.  They also state "better than new".  Don't know how you can make a seal better but who knows.

Hey I did a search for LJI Seals and didn't find anything.  Any one use these seals under the hood?  It seems like all the conversations having to do with LJI are positive.  Was going to order today...

Hood Seal Kit - 2002

This hood seal kit include the two side seals at the hood latch (mounted on the body) and the long hood seal that crosses the hood (mounted on the hood). A custom made reproduction, these hood seals are better than new and will last on your vintage BMW 2002. A great gift item for someone special or just for you!

Car has Pertronix.  The new wire was run as one of the previous owners did an engine swap.  Unfortunately cut a ton of wires and left alot to be desired.  All other gauges are working.

When I started it this morning, it was working for a bit and then stopped again.  I just took it out at lunch and not working. I do not know if I connected it to the same terminal.  There was a wire to nowhere off one terminal and I used that one.

Its a wiring nightmare as far as peripherals.  No dash lighting, used the hazard switch assembly as hot lead for the radio, wires to nowhere everywhere.  I've isolated that alot of them are from the smog and can be removed.

I was under the impression the tach was a direct connect and no fuse involved???

My tach didn't work when I bought my car.  I found that is was disconnected.  I ran a new wire from the coil to the back of the tach last night.  It was working when I took it out today for my first drive of the year.  After driving about 5 miles it stopped working.  Connection is good/new.  The only thing I can say is that although it was working, the RPMs it read were very high (2000 RPM at idle, 5500 RPM in 4th at 55mph).

If the only connection is that one, is the tach no good?  Seems odd it was working and just died suddenly.

I guess my big problem is that they keep telling me pictures aren't enough to tell if the housing is broken. Anyway I either take it to the next level or just chalk it up to having 1 out of over 150 transactions on ebay not go my way.  I don't think that going through ebay resolution is going to give me justice and I really don't want to be the only debbie downer to give this guy negative feedback.

It just baffles me with his answer.

That being said if anyone needs a core,valve or controls... I'm your guy

A month ago I bought a heater box on ebay.  To be fair I asked no questions as I had none.  I just wanted the outer box.  It came in smashed and the seller (with over 400 positive transactions) told me that it was for parts only and that a picture could not be used in defining that the box was in good condition and that I may not have been able to see the problems and 40 years of temperature change affects plastic in ways that damage it.  He states I should have asked questions.  My point is that a picture tells everything and I had no questions. Am I being unreasonable to ask for my money back?  I told them I would eat the shipping and even ship the box back to them.  They obviously have done something right in the past to have 100% feedback.  I just can't swallow their answer.  Look at the picture.  What I received was a smashed fan housing and busted fan (I don't need the fan just the housing).  The picture shows the housing to be perfect. Does the fact that it is for parts only make this ok?

Their definition of used or for parts is:

For parts or not working

An item that does not function as intended and is not fully operational. This includes items that are defective in ways that render them difficult to use, items that require service or repair, or items missing essential components. See the seller's listing for full details.

Their third response... I won't bother with the first two....

"It's common sense to ask questions on an item like this especially for a 40 year old plastic heater box that undergoes years of temperature change. You should never assume anything. The listing clearly states "no returns ask questions. We disagree with you that pictures are enough to warranty the condition of the housing. We have no pictures of the box the way you claim you received it to go by, no way of knowing that damage actually occurred in shipping, no way of knowing the box we possibly receive back is the box that we sent you. The parts that we believed to be useable on the heater box were clearly stated. What you describe you received contained all of these useable parts. Essentially you received exactly what was described in the listing as usable. Even if some of the parts on this we described were less than perfect, it is sold for parts not working and in need of repair. You say we don't have to eat shipping. You don't take into consideration our time for finding the part or vehicle, getting it to our place of business, removing the part from the vehicle, listing, packaging, and delivering the item to the Post Office and other expenses along the way. If this were an item that is returnable we may have included a restocking fee to cover costs like this. As it is return shipping is bourne by the buyer. You asked for our email outside of eBay to communicate about this listing and send photos. This is a red flag for us, you can send photos directly through eBay messages. Photos are not entirely likely to change our position on this matter, but they may help. Because we do not automatically agree with what you state without any support other than your word is not cause to sling accusations of us being crooks and thieves as eBay sellers or is it conducive to resolving an issue such as this. We do honor what we state in our listings. Any eBay representative examining our customer care will see that we take of our customers."

Is this the same car that was for sale a few months back on ebay in Las Vegas with no reserve????

Anyone have a heater box looking to sell?  I really only need the outer box where the fan is.  Mine is too broken to hold a fan.  Just bought one on ebay that was packed so tight the fan shroud was totally cracked in pieces....

Don't need controls, core, valve etc.... just the fan side of the box....

Ugh.....

For $1200 I'd buy it tomorrow if if was closer...  Again,  it would be for the sum of the parts, not the shell.

Paul

(by the way, I'm selling all of the foam you'd need, really high quality, as well as the rivets and grommets),

Rocan,

I need to put this back together.  I was cleaning it tonight.  Unfortunately the half that holds the fan is totally cracked and won't hold the fan.  I am also have issues getting the blade off the fan motor shaft as my motor is shot and bought a new one from Blunt. I just bought another on heater box on ebay from Hawaii as it was the only one I could find. Hopefully it is all in good sorts.

I'd be interested in seeing what you are using for foam/grommets/etc.  As soon as the new box come in, I need to tear that one down and make one good box out of the two and need all that stuff.

Should I bring the core to the rad shop if is doesn't leak?  I guess if it's out I might as well.

Paul

It would be cool to have a place where we could post what we do or what we sell for a living.  I for one would give '02 guys a discount just for the fact they drive an '02.

It would be nice to find one of the members who sold fishing gear or cool manly stuff.

The Rack Attack sounds like a strip club.  I would like to work there!!!

I spent 8 years looking on ebay and craiglist for a local car that was rust free in NJ.  I finally found one on Craigslist that was indeed rust free.  My only concern was finding a rust free car to work with.  The fact that it ran was a bonus. I took my time as it really didn't fit into my lifestyle (or garage) and was in no rush. I have owned two rusty problem cars previously and just drove them. Nothing else.  The real problem aside from safety is you really don't want to spend money on anything because its a rust bucket and it is like pissing into the wind. Once you have the shell, it doesn't bother you to spend the money.  You know you'll either have the car for a long time or be able to sell it and recoup your money. 

My wife laughed at me when I brought home a poorly sprayed car with no bumpers and thought I was crazy.  I laughed because it only cost $3500.00 and felt like I finally found the lost treasure I had been searching for and got there before anyone else did.

I do need to know... How much was he asking???? It might be worth it if you needed a parts car.  I know I do.