paulram

Mine keeps falling off.  The rubber is brittle and it is missing the bushing that it rides on.  I'm hoping to get a Rocan Designed Pedal shortly. I have to tap mine on with a mallet but inevitably it falls off in a day or so.

Got the oil catch can today in brushed finish.  Looks good and not too big.  Since it was fabricated, it looks that way.  I like the industrial look of the welds and that is looks handmade.

I'll try to mount the same spot as Marshall as there are holes already there.  May have to make a bracket of some kind.

There area bunch of wires in the blue sheath.  These are all for smog (except resistor wire)???  I'll wait before I start ripping out wires until I find out more.

Also, what is this piece.  It is hooked to the carb via vaccum hose.  Smog as well??  I didn't trace the wire.

Thanks.

As for the 4 wires from the coil,

I have a red and black running to the Pertronix, a black and brown running into a blue sleeve just above the coil and then the yellow.

The yellow wire is spliced into an black wire in the receptacle that has been previously cut and reaattached.  Honestly I have no idea when it comes to wiring and where this harness was originally and what the orange piece plugged into it does.  I have work to do.  I'll report after I figure out the function of the existing wires.

That mystery wire on the valve cover may hold the key to something...

Fubar.

Still could use a photo of stock wiring config in the engine compartment.

I just got new vanity plates...

I guess I need to be more familiar with using a continuity tester/multimeter to diagnose random wires. 

These are two of the wires that are coming through from the cabin.  A base exposed black wire and a brown wire.  I will try to figure out where these go to.

Wish there was an easy way.

Does anyone have a visual of the wiring and how it connects into the engine compartment on a 1976.  I'n not looking for wire colors and connections but specifically how it is mounted and looks.  Looking for the correct harness/adapter and how it is connected to the body itself. My version of being wedged into what seems to be a washer fluid mount surely is not what the German engineers envisioned.

I need to start undoing the wrongs and it is a long list.

Besides no tach, no dash lights, no fans etc.  Driving in the rain is a big problem with no defrost

I've read a bunch of previous posts on tachs not working.  Mine does not work either.  I need to diagnose and get the tach working in order to do timing and not blow up motor.

A little history (I really have no history) but....

The engine was replaced at some point and the wiring is a mess.  It's fubar but runs.  

It looks all the wires were cut and spliced back together.  Unlike most threads I've read, I have wires running from my coil but no working tach. Can anyone tell me what color wire would be coming from the tach into the engine compartment on a 76 '02? There are wires not connected to anything.  I need to confirm there is wiring to the tach as well.

Here is a picture of my coil (running pertronix), a random green and white wire, and a picture of my spliced wiring mess with random wires not hooked to anything.  I don't know where to begin.

Sorry if I am asking the wrong questions but tracing/testing i am an amateur...Gin and tonics...expert and can give advice.

In my rebuild kit the powervalve has a slight bend to it.  It don't fully understand what it does.  It seems quite a mystery.  Will it affect performance?  The diaphragm at the end is fine and makes a good seal and the spring seems to work.

I actually did not buy that one (it was on amazon).  I ended up buying this one (non polished) as it was the smallest one I found and I liked the way it looked.  I'm sure I could have gotten one cheaper but they were in Pennsylvania and I liked their "about us".

http://www.jmfabrications.com/store/products/Small-Oil-Catchcan.html

Marshall...

Aside from concocting my own can or dropping a tube to the ground (which I would prefer not to do).  What is a reasonable solution?  I see ones for sale from $25 bucks up to $250 bucks.  I have no problem with buying pricy parts that give me some benefit but this seems like a necessary evil.

I saw this one for like 60 bucks that doesn't look obnoxious.  

I swapped my old air cleaner to a Redline Chrome Air cleaner.  The previous air cleaner has the valve cover breather vented into it.  The new one also has an adapter to fit into it as well.  Do I need to vent into the air cleaner or can I just install a stand alone filter?  It would seem that the hot nasty air would do nothing good for the carb but venting into the carb would get rid of some of the smell in the cabin.

Actual picture... Based on a visual, I would say that the darker more tarnished tube would go with the darker more dirty barrel.  This would be the larger emulsification tube on the 32 barrel?

Paul

I have totaly disassembled the 32/26 and everything has been straightforward.  I did however mix up the two emulsioning tubes and one looks to have larger opening than the other.  I don't know if that is the case or just an optical illusion.  If they are a different size would it be safe the say the larger would go on the 36 side???

On a side note everything looks to be in pretty good shape except for all the crud at the bottom of the bowl and some in the filter.

Thanks in advance.

Paul

I have the manual and diagram.  The kit comes with a bag of gaskets/seals etc with no reference to what parts they replace.  No biggie.  Carb is off and I will begin tonight.

Is there any comprehensive instructions on where all of the gaskets etc in a rebuild kit go?  I go a bag of orings/gaskets etc.  I have the parts diagram but was hoping for more.

I like these as well.  I get the feeling the previous rims are too wide for a standard setup...  I want something that looks the right period, but looks aggressive.

Based on a few recent posts on rims and tires.  I need to upgrade the rims/tires I currently have at some point in the next few months.

On the car now are standard 13" steel rims which look ok and I also have a set of 5 rims from a 320 as well that are 13"

Based on previous conversations that 13" tires are harder to find and also that the 320 rims I have are not the correct offset  (but people use them)...

What is everyone's best opinion (yes i want opinions) on a  rim size and type assuming I do not want to change much as far as flares etc.  I don't mind making minor mods.

Important to me is look and handling.  I am willing to give up some ride comfort for handling but do want a card that does ride fairly well.  It would also be nice if I had a rim that gave me alot of options for tire types.

I tend to like older rims that have a deep dish (I don't know what youcall it) but a retro racing type look.

 I attached a photo of a look I like (I would not have gold and like a brushed aluminum look.

elaborate on the rusted out pedal spring........

 

that little spring in your picture should not be stiff enough to prevent you from puttting your foot down unless it is too short and runs out of spring.  the right foot should be able to over power anything you can put in the linkage system.

When I went to adjust the pedal, I removed the nut and a loose spring was on the same shaft the pedal adjustment was on. It iooks like it is meant to snap the pedal adjustment back to its position. It is rusted and bRoken.

We are in the same half assed club with previous owners.  I just bought the rebuild kit for 20 bucks.  I'm going to clean and install the kit.  In theory the parts should be good.  I guess the float/jets could have issues but I figure for $20 bucks I will learn about the carb and at least know that the parts that can wear out will be new.

I did read on Redline that the card to buy should be a European model as Weber has leased it's name out to different manufacturers and that there is a difference. 

Here is a link about it i found. I think they took it right from the Redline site.

http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/

I haven't bought much but as a small business owner I would see if you can buy from some of the shops the guys on the site have used.  I have bought a few parts so far and people have been very helpful.  Not to say that local guys can't sell on amazon, but it's been my experience in all purchases, the local guy or small business owner is not only super helpful and knowledegable, but will save you money in the long run from the advice given.  My .02.

Paul

Running a 32/36 Weber.  Having issues with the carb getting to wide open.  I adjusted the pin at the linkage. I then adjusted the pedal as per previous post by mlytle.

I realized there is a rusted out spring at the pedal. 

Question is... Is the spring at the linkage (shown in picture) a cheap fix because they did not fix the pedal spring?  If I replace spring at pedal, do I need spring at linkage.

Right now I've realized there is not enough leverage to get throttle wide open as the spring is too heavy.  Can I remove spring or is it necessary and I need a lighter one.

Thanks again.  Every time I think it is one thing, it goes one thing deeper.

Paul