gliding_serpent2

You guys are great. My brake booster was rebuilt 4 years ago... For leaking. Pumping the brakes at idle, i can lean my engine out 3-4 points. So the break booster likely goes. No smoke from those hoses, so is it safe to assume the brake booster leak is internal? The warmup regulator is still under investigation.

I will try this also. My brake booster was leaking, and rebuilt 4 years ago. Would not be surprised if this was again a problem. Would a smoke machine help diagnose this? I am not a pro and don't know where the systems link.... Oh i remember now. I will check this today.

I am not so concerned about my idle. For me, the concern is the engine leaning out with more throttle (a4-6 point swing on my cauge from light to near full throttle, then going back again to 13:1 at wot). Air leak was suspected as part throttle has the most vaccum. I did not think to verify the warmup regulator was 10mm... But i drove the car hot into the bay and we were diagnosing it with smoke within 15 minutes. Plus, no smoke exited from any other location. And although smoke exited from areas of the regulator i could not see, if also exited from the epoxy seal from one area on the top that looked broken down. Even if things cooled off a bit... I think the answer was evident. I found an air leak thread by the hackmechanic where he quickly described an in vitro test of the warmup regulator. I will do that as my final test... And if there is no easy fix... It needs to be rebuilt (again) by gus. It was last done 4 years ago. arent the hoses to the warmup regulator filled with coolant? I was thinking about trying a hack fix with epoxy before i send it across the continent for who knows how long for the tune of 500-700$.

Looking at the prices of a warmup regulator swap/rebuild. Makes webbers look good again. I have a nice pair of 40's for my car that I would love to swap for something smaller.... I will sleep on that.

Rookie mistake. I did not verify the warmup regulator had extended to the full warm 10mm. It should let in air in a cold engine. Mind you, they checked it as soon as i drove in and engine temps were mid gauge. I should probably repeat and verify the 10mm... But as the only source of smoke... It still needs a rebuild in my mind. It was leaking where it shouldn't. useful link:

oh balls Good news is that i know what my problem is... An intake leak. A smoke machine solved that one. Bad news is that the leak is my warmup regulator (rebuilt in 2012). I can see the leak around the top sealant... But more comes from underneath. Any words of wisdom for removal? While you are in there thoughts?

Fuel pump and fuel filter on order. The other can be a spare.

For sure. But if it is a fuel pump problem, i wonder why the afr numbers/issues would be so consistent, yet the idle rpm so variable after a period of use. I still think multiple small issues are at play. But given that it is a rebuilt unit, i think i will source a new one. Could also be as simple as a gas tank needing flushing, and the noise began when the tank got closer to empty (i filled it at 1/4th... After six months with fuel stabalizer).

Yeah, for sure. I tuned it out, but what was odd was that it was fine to begin with. Then I drive on the highway for a while, and then some b roads fun, and after 1.5hrs of driving, idle is trying to stall out on me. Something changed, and I am assuming it is distributor related.

This is a bit of an odd thing. So i drive back, and then my car wants to stall whenever it idles. Again, making me think the distributer is causing some (probably unrelated) fault. I opted to lean out the idle to 13:1 when i got home, and to readjust the idle speed. It did not reslly change the afr spread from light to full throttle, but idle is not so rich, so the illusion is that things got tighter. Also, after 4 or so hours of driving today... My fuel pump (in the back) now sounds like it is spitting and angry. Like it is struggling to suck fuel from a straw, except that my tank was 3/4 full. It was a rebuild unit (volvos of the era used the same one). I will go for another drive. At the moment i suspect my fuel pump is in the fritz, i might have a vacuum leak, and my distributer needs a tune-up. the joys of old cars. Man do i want a e30 m3. And after a cooldown, the fuel pump sounds fine. Thoughts?

You are right. I did that again this am. I adjusted the throttle body shaft again, but made sure to take slack off of the pedal/linkages before final tightening. I also set things to be richer with the eccentric cam partly obstructing the hole for the 4mm pin. Running this way, i had initially thought my problem was fixed. I only moved it. idle and low throttle are afr's of 10.5:1. As throttle progressivly increases, things lean out, but to a max of 14:1 near wot, and again with wot, it goes to 13-13.5:1. Just like before, instead of ranging from 12-16, it is 10-14. So i just moved my problem, but at least it is a lesser of evils. At good cruising and 75% throttle, things are 13:1, as opposed to over 15:1. so this makes me think about why my fuel delivery is lagging the throttle body. The static idle and wot are fine, as they are set. I do wonder if the throttle body shaft is out of round, or, more likely, there is a vacuum leak. One person at the car event i went to suggested that. It might be worth getting a smoke machine. As he said, vacuum leaks tend to be worse in part throttle applications as wot is vacuum independant. Besides, i am also chasing mixture issues in my 911, and a smoke machine would be a good tool to have. Either way, my car was quite popular! I gave a few rides by request. I may also talk to ireland engineering about Petronix (or their tii mechanical distributor with electrical points)

The restoration guide talks more about the warmup regulator and adjusting that. They also talk about the base mixture screw on the pump. I hesitate to fix that as I presume it will not fix my throttle position dependent lean issue, but rather shift the entire problem to the rich or lean spectrum. Mind you, I may richen it a tad, given that my WOT when warm is leaner (13-13.5:1) than I would like (12.5-13:1). Edit, my base mixture screw is as lean as rich as it will go. Mind you, I might need to adjust the warmup regulator washer/nut as this will influence the base mixture screw at warmup. I wish there was one resource that kind of covered an approach to it all.

JimK, I guess I understand the concept of what you get form AFR's vs timing. Power i generally best around 13:1 (engine dependent) with less losses in power as you go rich, but power drops off faster, and eventually you go off a cliff if you go too lean. Optimal timing is based on many factors, including cams, compression, fuel. I believe my compression should be stock for my Canadian bought car (9.5:1) and in theory my combustion chamber diameter is larger due to my oversized pistons. The larger piston diameter should require slightly advanced timing due to longer flame propagation times. If my compression were up, that would require a reduction in timing. If memory serves me. I am just not sure how to evaluate if my current problem is a timing one, or a eccentric cam adjustment issue, or other. I guess I feel like I am taking shots in the dark. One thought is that I have never tried adjusting the eccentric cam beyond the factory setting to get it to tough the 4mm pin (drill bit) in the tuna can. Maybe I need to fiddle with that.

I reread the two page tuning article i linked to on page 1. I note the same issue they note in the "captn says" section. That is, i can set my idle, and then rev the engine, and the idle csn change a bit. This surprises me that my advance springs might be worn, as advanced distributors redid my distributer a few years ago when the engine was done. I also did not do 1000rpm and 3000 rpm tests as they suggest. I need two people for that, and my wife is in bed. i guess my frusteration is in not knowing if i need to be fiddling with the timing, eccentric cam, or both. Also funny to read my page one observations... History is repeating itself.

Deja-vu so we what is old is new again. I set idle to 900rpm, get my air fuel to 10.5:1 (remember i am useing a self calibrating aem wide band air fuel ratio gauge). Without load, going up the rpm range, everything looks great, maybe afr goes to 14:1, then 13:1 wot. Everything is warmed up. get in gear and things go from 10.5:1 idle to 12-13:1 light throttle, up to 16:1 near full throttle (rpm independant). Wot is 13-13.5:1. Things go a bit more lean in 4th gear than they do in lower gears. No matter how much i fiddle with the idle and richness screws, no change to the above afr patterns. The more i richen the mixture, the more idle rpm drops, the more i need to increase the idle... Repeat. I dont think this is my solution. The warmup regulator is in the proper 10mm position. So i am back to square one. My thought is that maybe this is a timing thing... but i am grasping at straws as i am no expert. Another thought is that things are good, but that the throttle body continues to open faster than the kf pump lever can increase fuel. But this seems to be odd given wot operates just fine. A near correct wot makes me think there are no leaks, and that the injectors and pump are fundimentally fine. Or am i wrong?

This is another good thread. so far so good. Engine warming up for the idle and mixture tune. An issue i ran into last year was my linkage from the pedal lever up the firewall being too long. I could not get it short enough to allow full throttle with everything set. With the new linkages i had the same issue. So i popped the linkage out... Heated the bottom hockey stick end with a torch, bent it shorter, and cut off the old end. Perfect. Car is near full temp. As it warms up i needed to screw in the idle screw to keep rpm's from dropping and causing a stall. Not sure what afr to set the mixture at, but i will start with 12 for idle when hot, then drive and lean it out (or richen it) as needed.

So far so good. Oddly, the cam in the tuna can was lifting with the throttle application, but after loosening the screws in the shaft, and tightening them as part of the kf tuning procedure, this seemed to settle. My issue now is that the linkage from the firewall to the pedal can not be adjusted short enough from the top to permit full throttle. Will see what i can adjust behind the pedal... And under the car.

I took things apart. rob's instructions in the linked thread were helpful. Removing the air filter housing is key, but i did it without plenum removal. But, my fingers are long and thin and my knuckles are a but raw in places. i brought the throttle body shaft (bottom part that connects to the linkages) to the local machine shop and quickly had them spot welt the press fit linkage anchors (because i popped one out, and the other just in case), and straighten the one i bent. I figured it was better than a bent linkage anchor that was risky for popping out. Now it is time for re assembly and tuning

thanks.

You win some, you loose some So replacing the middle throttle linkage was a bit of a disaster. As you all know, it is fiddly to get to. Being a bit new to this and prone to brute force, I popped it off, but along with the "door knob" press fit linkage head (the end closest to the KF fuel pump on the middle linkage). Just before I did that my brain was saying... "that looks pretty locked on, you might bend something, maybe you should leave it alone and just replace the other linkages, and see if that does the trick." Sadly my primitive brain overrode logic and here we are. So I used a very small vice grip to press it back on in-car, and then I used lock tite (which I imagine will not do much good as the parts could not be cleaned well in the car0. It seems to be holding, but I know full well I need to get it properly replaced or fixed, otherwise I could easily lose throttle mid drive. I should have used less force, more wd40, and started off by removing Plenum #1 (i removed it to press fit the piece back in). Good news is that my cap for the butterfly shaft is there, and in great shape. So I guess my next question is, how do I remove the butterfly shaft so that I can get access to the lever that needs repairing?

After a long time I finally got around to ordering my new linkages from Jack. I just need to get the car out of storage and try them out. My only complaint was that the kit does not come with the long linkage from below the firewall/pedal. Mine is not original, and i think it is a source of some throttle pedal slop (but not the source of my issues). I will need to refresh myself on all of this again as it has been many months. I think verifying i have the cap for the butterfly shaft is also key. Here is to hoping for an easy fix.

What vendor here? I am a bit out of the 2002 loop these days

Look like it. I will give them a ring. Thanks!

Hi folks, still busy with my 911 hotrod, but the 73 tii needs new throttle linkages to get to the bottom of my AFR woes. I want to get the Probimmer set. Things is, they are a small business and don't do paypal or credit card. They are looking for cheque or money order. I suppose I could get off my rump and mail one to them, but it is cold up here, and I have little time to get to the bank given that I also work (beyond) bankers hours. Anyway, does anyone here live nearby? Could I paypal you the money to pay for it/shipping in person at their shop? Heck, I would even give you a little something for your troubles (like the cost of me doing a bank draft). They are willing to mail it to me in Canada. I know this is a bit of an odd request, but just looking into options. Thanks for any help. John p.s. No, I am not an African prince, and I do not need your bank account number for transfer of my millions offshore. If you are an African prince, no offense but I am not giving you my bank account number.

http://comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com/president-barack-obama-will-ferrell-steve-martin-kathleen-madigan-sebastian-maniscalco-garry-shandling-season-trailer Season 7. I see a riviera blue 2002 Tii. Just saying that the man has good taste.