pilotnbr1

21 hours ago, JAS said:

Great work Paul! I am also impressed that you were able to find an 008 distributor at an autowrecker in Vancouver - just assumed they had no 02 parts left, let alone tii parts.

The correct distributor for the 74 tii is 180013 and that one includes the dashpot which is attached to the decel valve mounted on top of the 74tii air cleaner. Interesting enough, Jeff at Advanced is adamant that the vacuum advance on the 013 hurts performance. He said to plug the vacuum line to the dashpot, set the advance at idle to 12 - 15 degrees BTDC, and then leave it as is. I plan to try it both ways (factory and his) and see if there is much of a difference.

John

Yes 99 percent sure the us 74tii is vacuum retard/centrifugal advance. With the vacuum being strongest at idle or under deceleration removes several degrees of advance from the engine. The 013 is curved with that in mind. I believe the 74tii kf pump had some minor tweaks as well.

edit- there are 2 013 dizzys 

0 231 180 013 for the 74tii

0 231 160 013 is for automatics

Somewhat related discussion that can go round and round is correct ignition coil ;p . I just remember the 74tii has the resistor wire...lol

great project!

3 hours ago, jimk said:

All the modern pumps have check valves.  They usually don't hold pressure though, i.e. pressure leaks down pretty fast.  The main purpose of the check valve is so the pump (a positive displacement device) can work.  Without the check valve, the fluid pumped would flow back between pump discharges and the pressure would pulsate like crazy with little or no flow.

Thanks! 

Just out of curiousity, does the e28 pump have a built in check valve? 

The receipts were so detailed with parts numbers you could use em as a build list! Lol

Since it looks like you are going all out- 

Wurth Body Schutz or 3M Body Schutz… Needs special applicator gun

A typical underside will consume 1 container per wheelwell per coat or about 10 to 12 cans of SKS per job with about 3 coats, not cheap.

This is what gives the underside the same textured look as whats inside your trunk. That is the special- prep and top with whatever paint system you use- (of course original was single stage).

Any insight into why there was such a sudden jump in 2002 values on Hagerty? I am glad to see them trending upwards, but am curious as to the accuracy of such a sudden increase. The 1974 2002tii had a comparable jump as well. Guess these cars are doing well at auction...

Luke

Once paint and metal comes off whoever is doing the work WILL find more to be fixed. If you are paying for someone else to do the work it will cost you much more. IF you are doing the work yourself it will take much more time. Ask yourself what you have more of- Money or spare time?

IMHO the expense of this kind of work is mostly in the labor... Materials are relatively cheap.

I am in the middle of a roof swap. I have already removed the skin from the donor roof so I have a rust free non-sunroof frame sitting around. Message me and we can work something out.

I am trying to decide what to do with my original sound deadening material. To be honest I am leaning towards replacing it as close as possible to the original stuff- Wurth Bitumen sound insulation. Anyone else do this? 

Can the original insulation already cut to shape be found? 

On a tangent I would cleanup all the loose fiber, dirt, leaves- anything that can hold moisture thats around your tank. That corner to the right looks like it could be cleaned up. That whole tank rim and corner are prime areas to rust (partly because of the foam between the tank and rim). I just spent the better part of 2 days cutting out rust and putting in new metal- not fun!

If your leak is one of the tank seals on the top of the filler hose area it might only be active when fuel is sloshing- top off again and while you pump the gas have your trunk open with a clear view of the tank. You can also try rocking your car.

Nice car!

After removing the majority of spot welds on the donor roof, IMHO the remaining frame has a surprising amount of flex. I am going to add bracing to my car when I remove the original roof.

Have nothing but good things to say about W&N. On the plus side for you the euro to dollar exchange is really good right now- that rail is only $309.

After a 2002 break I am getting back into my own restoration and catching up on this forum. Amazing write-up and story- Thank you for sharing so that we can all learn and have a reference source when we deal with our own stumbles! There is alot to be said for an analytical, systematic approach to problem solving vs throwing darts at a board and hoping to get lucky.

I am now curious if cylinder 4 has any damage to the valves due to possible lean conditions. Guess compression is good so can't be that bad.

Paul commented that he had been told never to take an injector apart- curious as to why... I've broken mine down for cleaning and reassembled- seemed pretty straight forward.

Again- great effort and resolution! 

So after starting work on my donor roof a few thoughts/questions.

Is the reason you put holes in both the new roof drip rail and the car frame because you used drill bits on the spot welds? It appears you had to spot weld/fill in holes on both sides of the mating surfaces. I am using spot weld bits and only going through one of the two surfaces ( from the top). Just making sure I'm not missing something...

Did you brace the car to prevent twist? Is it even needed since the roof frame is intact?

Thanks!

I currently have a 74 tii with an incorrect sunroof from the 80s.. Thanks for the right up as I was able to acquire a donor roof (no sunroof) and will  be doing the swap soon!

'74 tiis did have a retard or advance pot on the distributor - the hose from the gizmo near the shock tower (deceleration valve?) connects to the dizzy and intake manifold, as seen in the photo above.

 Pretty sure they are mechanical advance and vacuum retard...

Looking for a complete roof clip. Would prefer non sunroof. Also no major rust issues. I live in Atlanta Ga. Thanks!

Luke

Generally a plug weld is stronger than a spot weld if done correctly. Spot welder is a little more full proof if you don't have welding experience (which is another reason why factories use it). Sometimes its a pain to position a spot welder vs a standard wire feed mig.

Spot welding is more factory but IMHO spot welds aren't really visible under the paint- so it only appears to be factory to whoever does the work restoring/repainting the car next time.... If you are really concerned about "factory" appearance I think your energy (and money) is better spent elsewhere.

So sorry to hear you still have problems. I wonder if a little carbon on the plugs with some heat to add resistance killed your spark....

Having tried both POR 15 and Eastwood rust encapsulator I have to say I much prefer Eastwood. Less prep, less money spent on prep materials, and it applies nicely with a gun. The results are just as good from what I can tell and have read online. The only downside to Eastwood is that it does not seem to self level as nicely as Por15, although my Por15 was glossy finish and Eastwood was flat.

From reading online it sounds like por15 might have an edge if you were to apply it to rust with scale. Eastwood encapsulator expressly tells you to remove scale. In my opinion (and application) I am going to remove as much rust as possible and need a coating to protect in those hard to reach places. Once again Eastwood has their chassis protection system that let's you extend an applicator tube deep within that subframe or crevice.

What has everyone else experienced? Anyone try rust bullet?

Heres your trunk lid! 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-BMW-Model-2002-trunk-lid-/141107774706?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20daadc4f2&vxp=mtr

$150

The good thing is there are alot of donor parts... Just be prepared to drive!

The consensus seems to be "if the car is something special it would be worth saving". "Special" being defined as monetarily worth saving.

If your question is "can the car be saved?" - Sure

Is it "worth" saving this car?- Probably not.

If you are looking for a project, you have certainly found one. I can understand falling in love with a car and I am all for someone putting another one of these fantastic cars on the road. Just go into this eyes open!

So if this car is "special" to you and you have the time, money, and patience- I say go for it! My biggest fear in a project like this is that you will get partially done and walk away. It will take alot of time and fortitude to see this one through. But KNOW what you are getting into. Probe with a screwdriver searching for rust. Remove paint and probe some more. Rust that can be seen on the external part is generally worse once its opened up- they generally rust inside out where moisture can be trapped by the shape of the component or by overlapping metal. 

This one will require replacement panels. Go to wallothnesch.com website and price some of the panels to get an idea of some costs. You will need alot of new rubber around the windows and doors to prevent rust forming again. This is just a starting point- realize you will spend alot more money on other things when you get into it.

Hope you didn't pay tii prices...

Sorry I got a big hand and fingers and I'm on an iPhone with failing eye sight !

I took my rear tire off and I noticed a leaking of break fluid , I have been told by the experts that I need to fix that. I said what , they said vaguely the cylinder. Like you I said could you repeat that in English ? He said come back later he was too busy.

My mechanic is good and new.

Now what kind of a job is this in terms of time, witch is money ? And I would project I would buy 2 wheels worth .

So where would I get them , in terms of the best named part .

Now I want you to know that I really can't see now and my wrist feels like it's going to fall off.

If you were to read between the lines of my previous non English ? You would see that I have said the same thing . In stead I feel as if I'm talking to someone whom does not understand cars ? Dez

Wow.... 

You could switch over to an electric pusher fan... This is just treating the symptom and not the problem though.. Good luck!