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Marsattacks

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Posts posted by Marsattacks

  1. I had all sorts of weird stuff happening with my flashers and turn signals.  Swapped out the relay for an electronic one and all order was restored.  I also put in a new hazard switch but that was not part of the problem.  It just wouldn’t stay depressed.  I’m not the original author of the thread below but is the one that helped me.  Good luck!

     

     

  2. In connection with the starting issues described in another (revived) thread, I started down the path of disabling the seat belt interlock on my 74tii (if in fact it has not already been disabled).  I didn’t expect it to be completely straightforward, and I think it might not be.  Thanks in advance for any insight.  I know little to nothing about wiring/electrics but here goes based on the above very helpful posts.  I realize that there could be differences in the 74 Auto and the 74 tii which could explain some of the discrepancies here.  (In case it matters, my tii has been changed to twin webers so the tii cold start is not enabled).

     

    1.  Overall shot of my ignition switch area.

    2.  Shot of the black wire (B) plugged into the ignition switch with the remnants of a red wire that has previously been cut.  Looks to me like this wire enters what I assume is the seatbelt relay.  See next photo.  Pending further input I haven’t fully pulled apart the wiring because it is pretty tidy.

    3.  Shot of the black and black/white (BW) wires each going into the seatbelt relay.

    4.  Shot of the BW wire going into a connector but then changes to a B wire going to (I assume) the starter.

    5.  I can do more tracing but as above I’ll probably need to do some unwrapping/unzipping of the wires to get good access.

     

    I realize that this might be impossible for you to assess via photos but if by chance you can shed some light on what you’d do (if anything) I’d be grateful.  For now I will have jumper cables handy in case I need to power the starter directly off the battery again.  I can definitely get this to a local mechanic if you think otherwise I’m playing with fire (literally or figuratively).  Thanks!

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  3. Hey guys — old thread but I didn’t see the point in starting a new one.  Anyway, I had a similar problem after getting my 74 out of storage.  Started fine in storage (was on a tender).  Started a few more times just fine.  Then (luckily in my driveway) it refused to start.  A click then nothing.  After following the advice above, here is what happened:

     

    1.  Battery voltage as checked with multimeter was 12.65 or so.  No problem there.

    2.  All connections seem tight.

    3.  A few taps with a rubber mallet (hard to get good contact due to the location.  Nothing changed.,

    4.  Connected a jumper cable from the starter solenoid (bit of a spark) to the battery positive.  Then she started right up.

    5.  Removed jumper cable.  Moved the car out of the way to the garage.  Turned it off.  Started right back up again.

    6. So, I assume from the above that the starter solenoid was stuck.  So, two questions:

     

    A.  Is that assumption above re the stuck solenoid a solid one?  (Meaning that if it were the cable then it wouldn’t have started the next time) (Seems so, but I realize that with these old cars sometimes there are mysterious coincidences that confound straightforward conclusions).

     

    B.   Should I proactively replace the solenoid or is this likely to be a pretty rare occurrence?  Not looking for guarantees just what you’d do if it was your car (not a daily driver but also not one I’d really care to be fooling around with in a parking lot somewhere).

     

    Many thanks to all above who shared their insight and of course to the forum in general!

     

    John

  4. The plastic fasteners (even OEM) are junk in my opinion.  A bad joke.  A cruel hoax.  If they don’t line up perfectly, they break.  They can’t be re-used.  They cut your fingers.  They like to pull out from damp/old/wet door cards.  I tried hard to use and like them.  I ended up discarding them when I installed my Aardvark replacement cards.  I used high quality velcro.  For the strip attached to the card, I fastened the velcro with adhesive and upholstery staples.   For the strip attached to the door, I used glue only.  You could also use some screws for even stronger fastening but I didn’t want to drill and also see no need.  I suggest NOT using Velcro all the way around the card.  This stuff holds very tight and well.  If you are careful you won’t get any protrusion of the card (i.e. unwanted extra thickness).  You can pull it on and off to your heart’s delight.  But if you use a lot of it the hold will be tenacious.  Good luck.  YMMV.

    • Like 2
  5. On 7/2/2022 at 12:45 PM, AceAndrew said:

    Sorry, but did you actually do any of the following listed on the IE listing?

     

    1) provide them with a measured length.

     

    2) email with any questions prior to placing order.

     

    3) select the custom length option, where the 240 was explicitly referred to…Not the listings where the 245 was mentioned several times.

     

    here’s the text from the “custom” portion of the listing where the 240 is explicitly called out…

    WARNING: We need you to specify the length of your drive shaft. LENGTH IS MEASURED FROM FLANGE TO FLANGE OF THE DRIVESHAFT ITSELF. In other words, mating surface to mating surface (guibo to diff input flange). We are not responsible if you give us a length with the nose or the guibo included in that length. DO NOT MEASURE FROM FLANGE ON TRANSMISSION TO FLANGE ON DIFFERENTIAL. If you have any questions at all about measuring the length please email us prior to placing your order.

    Maybe the title should be “5 speed length got ordered wrong.”

    • Like 1
  6. I did patina handle for the front but it is way too big for a can so I went with kooglewerks on the transmission hump behind the parking brake.  Cheaper too than the console version and more easily accessed in my view.  
     

    I see the cup holder issue come up frequently in certain classic car circles. How is the supposed European disdain for cup holders reconciled with the ash trays and cigarette lighters?  Is it inherently more safe to have a burning wad of paper and tobacco in your mouth or hand?  And is lighting it and keeping it lit and tipping off the ashes etc etc etc more safe than coffee or iced tea or Diet Coke?  Seems like this is due to a cultural viewpoint not an inherently safety or driver focused viewpoint.  Of course one could say that ash trays and lighters are to be used only when parked.  But I guess that same argument works with cup holders.  

    • Like 1
  7. Price: $40
    Location: Pittsburgh PA


    Description:

    These are of unknown manufacture and were not woven by Dieter Von Anorak.  They will not enhance horsepower produced at the rear wheels, or anywhere else.  They work the same on a numbers-matching tii as not.  They are in driver condition (or, as a one-time prolific seller used to say, in a “lower level of perfection”).  They are nice and clean and don’t smell.  The edge binding is in nice shape.  The embroidery never was all that distinct (because it is pretty deep pile surrounding it), and the choice of white stitching for a floor mat probably was not great.  I have no idea what shipping would cost but I think it would be very unappealing.  So you can pick up for free at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix this summer, or put them on the 2002 Underground Railroad if you have some connections around here to whom I can deliver them.  Thanks for looking!

  8. I have the same bolt on bliss setup.  Perfect in my view.  Also have the kick panel extensions for front speakers.  But since you have KW you’d have no need.  I put

    my head unit in the glove compartment and use IR remote to control it and a wire to my iPhone for Spotify and calls and waze etc.  Bluetooth would work but sound quality seriously degrades.  Good luck!

  9. Hi — if you happen to have front door arm rests aka door handles in black please let me know if interested in selling.  These are for a 74 so (I think) ones from 74-76 should fit for sure — maybe earlier ones too.  Will probably dye my blue ones in the meantime but open to a trade, including blue door cards if wanted.  Many thanks!

  10. Hi — this might not help but your topic title read (to me) as if you are looking for a vehicle that is a “driver” (as in drivable but not great shape) or “sitter” (car does not drive).  That is, it looked to me like a “cars wanted” post in the general discussion section.  So I almost didn’t even read the post.  Not sure if you can (or if it would help to) modify the topic to say something like “I need someone to babysit my 02 in LA for a few months”.

     

    Good luck!

  11. I will PM Vanfal.  My personal and business situation is such that I don’t look at this site every day.  I have information that I compiled with help from other FAQrs.  I have shared this information with about a dozen other FAQrs.  There is no mystery.  Frank does not live in Vienna, where in some instances he purports to be based.  He does not live in Germany.  There is no way to “take him to court” (even “small claims court” if such a thing even exists in Hungary) unless of course you are prepared to hire a lawyer in Hungary or figure out how (on your own) to navigate the Hungarian legal system.  So, if you have been aggrieved, send me a PM and I will PM you back.

     

    Kind regards and I do hope everyone receives their wheels in the end,.

  12. On 2/4/2022 at 10:07 AM, Scruggs said:

    Just now finding this thread after being strung along for about a year over some 6.5” Alpina Borrani steelies. I was dealing with Frank through Facebook, but then my Facebook was hacked and I lost access. Finally found him on Instagram and reached out. “Will ship when I return to the country in two weeks”

     

    Those of you that received your wheels, what did you have to send? @Marsattacks can you pm me too?

    I will pm you now — been away from the faq for a bit.  I had an escalation plan that I never had to take past about step 4.

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