Marsattacks

I have (1) searched the FAQ; (2) studied the wiring diagram; and (3) looked through the articles in the technical section.  No luck so far.  Here is my question:

I am attempting to hook up an IR repeater so I can control my hidden stereo with the remote.  It ideally needs switched power.  I found a taped off set of wires behind the console.  There is:

(a) A yellow/white wire that goes to a small bulb.  It says SPAHN 12v2.  It does not appear to work so probably is burned out.

(b) A red wire.  This wire shows 12v with the key on or off when the brown is grounded.  This is a female spade.

(c) A brown ground wire.  This is a male spade.

Photo below.

I am not sure how switched and un-switched (always on) wires work.  I assume the red is unstitched due to the constant power.

The yellow also seems to get power with the key on or off, which seems odd to me.  Doesn’t seem like it should do that unless there is something funky about the way a separate switch would interrupt ground until it is pressed.  I guess like the horn.  Please realize that I don’t know what I’m talking about so if this seems like nonsense it probably is.

Now for the question — does the FAQ hive-mind know what this might be?  And do you see any major problem with running the IR repeater from it?  Seems like there would be a tiny draw.

If that is a bad idea is there a nearby switched power that you recommend?  I’ve read a little about taking power from the hazard switch — which is sitting right there — but I am slightly nervous about that.

Thanks. — John

Just another thank you to the originator and contributors to this topic.  My 74tii started exhibiting intermittent turn signals — sometimes fine, sometimes no flash, sometimes a single flash.  This spring the flash went out completely.  This was slightly  compounded by a sporadically functioning hazard switch (i.e., the switch is just fine — it is the button that likes to pop out and activate the hazards — pretty common.

I have LEDs in the rear, so I went with the electronic flasher relay that has three wires + a ground wire.  After a little bit of trial and error (my relay did not have any markings for the wires), I was able to land on the right combination.  I also installed a new OEM hazard switch.  Everything works perfectly — signal cadence is good, the clicking sound is good, no phantom flashing or lights blinking.  Headlights and brake lights work.

I’ll keep an eye on it to see if it is sensitive to voltage but right now it is working just fine at a low idle.  My battery is three years old and just out of winter storage with only sporadic trickle charge.

Thanks all.

FYI apparently these are already sold and the seller will update this post.  

I’ll take them.  Will pick up. Will text you.  Thanks, John

Ok I have almost everything in.  As expected the kick panel with speakers is a project.  It is not really complicated.  But it is tedious.  One of those tasks where three or four hands (not including another person) would help.  As it happened I needed 1.5” of spacers in order to clear the uncut metal of my kick panels.  I’m running JBL GTO 638 3-way speakers up front.  I’m sure a smaller or lower profile speaker would be a bit easier.  The Eurotrash v1 panel definitely helps and gives you a base to work from, but it is by no means plug and play, nor did I expect it to be.  It probably would help to angle the speakers slightly toward the driver because that would make better use of the limited space in the panel.  Might also help sound quality but I’m not certain about that.  All in all however these are really nice products and we are lucky to have vendors like Esty and Eurotrash.  A couple photos before buttoning everything up.  Fully reversible to stock.  

Evos are awesome.  Had one for two years and it was really something.   Total sleeper (without wing).  Think hard before going for one with the SST dual clutch transmission.  Great when they work, which doesn’t seem to be for long.  

Just posting to say many thanks to Mlytle for the great write up and to Esty for the awesome product and support!  After many years of sitting on a shelf my carpet finally is going down nicely.  I left the factory sound deadening intact on the floors because it was in great shape.  I then added some raamat and ensolite judiciously.   Probably many of you have better skills or tricks but in those few places where I needed to re-scribe a cut (rear tunnel for example), I used some flexible rubber coated electrical wire to replicate any curves.  The curve then could be traced onto the back of the carpet.  About 85 cents per foot. I used two feet.  Holds it shape well and worked great.  
 

The biggest challenge I foresee is getting my kick panels properly conformed to my speaker mounts (Eurotrash/bolt on bliss) and speakers.   A bit of mcguyvering is likely to be necessary.  

I like them.  We live in the country and the driving lights really help to light up the road. I have decent H4s as the main headlights and then some Hellas that bring on daylight when needed.  These shots are with translucent covers over the driving lights.  Main lights on low beam.  Note that the spacing of the driving lights is a matter of personal preference but has a significant effect on the appearance of the car.  Good luck.

Hi all here are some nice E21 big bearing hubs for those of you looking to upgrade your brakes etc.  You must have tii struts or contemporaneous E21 running gear to run these.  Price of $175 is shipped to your door in the CONUS only.  If you’d like to pick up at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix that can be arranged at a nice discount.  Thanks for looking!

Hella.  They work well. I like them.  These shots are with translucent white plastic stone guards attached.

Hi I’m a little confused.  Am I in at $121 if I pay now?  Oh heck I’ll pay and if I’m short please tell me. Thanks!  John

Thanks all! These are sold pending receipt of funds.  Will update when complete.  

Bump for same inflation free price of $950 plus shipping.  

Still sitting in bubble wrap in a box.  Lmk if interested.  Many thanks for looking.

I used Raamat from raamaudio to deaden the panels then used ensolite over top of that. You can google it. Or search in this forum. Raamaudio says just pitch the plastic. I’ll have a good bit left of my material to post on “parts for sale” when done but might not be available until October. Good luck!


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Added some deadener to driver’s door and reinstalled the card. That top chrome strip is proper fiddly!!!



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I’ll take the handles for $15. Lmk. Thanks


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Still available. Thanks!

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Cromodora CD32s work great and look great.


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Replied.  Thanks 

Offer him $1,000 with a 90% discount for prompt payment?


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Bump if interested. Thanks for looking!


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Hi I'll take the fog light to 15658. Thanks!


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I think she means Orc. As in the Hobbit. Or maybe the planet from which Mork hailed.

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Hi. I drove it for two weeks.  It was fine.  I then had a new key assembly put in.  I'm convinced you need to punch out the right cover plate to remove the lock pin.  This will require removal of lower dash pads.  I would skip it.  Good luck!!