Marsattacks

16 hours ago, Spyke said:

Odd... this wasn't my experience at all. He was quick to communicate to me, and did have reservations about taking paypal due to the fees. As someone who also sells things time to time it is understandable, so I simply said I'd send the money anyways and add the 4% on top.

Hi I just want to clarify a few items because they make a big difference.

Please note that Mr. Franker refuses to accept PayPal whether or not the would-be purchaser is willing to pay the extra percentage.  Full stop.  Refuses.  He refuses to accept any other payment method that gives the would-be buyer any recourse.   I tried to make that clear in my initial post.  

You don’t say whether your experience was recent, not recent, etc and that could significantly affect whether your experience can be repeated today.  Again, the availability of a refund through a third party (PayPal) is critical but not currently available with the seller.

I agree with the packing and quality of the product once received.

FTD.  AKA Failure to Deliver.  

What happens when there is a call on uncovered short sales?

Worked for me.   Needed to write it off emotionally then go for broke.  

Sounds like a great plan.  I went with a head unit in the glove compartment and then bolt on bliss products:  (1) kick panel extensions (no cut) for the fronts; (2) sub woofer enclosure that fits under one side of the rear seat (my amp is on the other side); and (3) a parcel shelf enclosure for the rear speakers covered in vinyl that matches my seats.  The parcel shelf enclosure is very nice and worth considering if your rig doesn’t please you. I have multiple sound deadening layers (i.e., the vibration dampening + isolation layer) but with DCOEs, a tii exhaust manifold/IE exhaust with a glass pack to replace the horrible resonator, and a 4-speed, it is too much noise.  Air pod pros work sort of ok but I’m not wild about the sound cancellation safety consequences (even through they don’t block all sound).  I’ll PM you a photo of the speakers so as not to cause confusion in your thread because we have the same Esty carpet.

Looks awesome.  You are going to really know that car well (you already do).  What are your plans for music, if any?  I ask only because you are at a stage where it would be pretty easy to do the install.  Can always be done later but more fiddly.  Or perhaps you are content to listen to the sound of the engine.  Notwithstanding the noise these cars generate, it is nice to have some music once in a while (for me) when I’m not at highway speeds.  Either way great work and perseverance!

Rear is tucked.  Front is not.  Air dam was on car when I bought it 10 or so years ago.  I think it is a pretty common fab similar to Ireland.  It is fiberglass AFAIK but not sure. Has bumper paint on it but a bit chipped.  

It is a non-OEM color.  This car originally was Polaris (a 1974 version I assume — the sticker is still there I just don’t have it handy).  I would call the current color (repainted by prior owner) a pearlescent white.  It has a nice depth to it.  I have been told (but have no direct evidence) that it is Imron paint.  Just for fun here is a larger picture that shows the paint and better detail of the wheels.  I hope it isn’t too big for forum rules.  

I must confess that I have done it — but not this year or with this car!

I posted a couple of these elsewhere but I did owe the group a few shots of the new wheels.  I bought them from he who shall not be named (long separate post). 

I am not in any way accomplished in auto electrics.  But my turns and flasher started acting up — doing all sorts of weird things at seemingly random times.  Flash twice, then stop; or flash once, then stop; refuse to flash; hazards work with no flash; etc.

What fixed it for me was retrofitting an electronic flasher relay.  I also changed the switch but that was only because mine was not staying depressed reliably and needed a toothpick jamb wedge.  I believe that the electronic flasher relays are less sensitive to good ground.  I think.  Anyway, the electronic relays are cheap and easy to find.  Good luck!

My inbox was indeed full.  I have now replied via PM — sorry for the delay.  Good luck!

Cards look great. Going to try to make our own this year.  

In case you are open to ideas — I put a modern unit in my glove compartment.  It is controlled via IR and totally invisible.  Gives you room in the console but of course uses most of the glove compartment.  I put the Amp and subwoofer under the back seat.  Nice speakers in parcel shelf and kick panels.  Bolt on Bliss products were perfect.  If you go this direction, Jason/Eurotrash is the man for the parts you need to fit the speakers and subwoofer seamlessly.  Sound can be nice and mellow or blow your ears off if you want.  Wasn’t expensive.  

Will do.  Not sure what’s up maybe my in box is full. 

Good grief.  I feel bad for you guys.  If you need information from me just let me know.  I think I have shared with everyone who asked.  Good luck.

Thanks guys.  Good info.  I like the magnet idea but now that I’m half way in  I’m going to go all the way with Velcro for now.  Seems to be holding well on the one side.  

This topic has been discussed before.  But not recently (I don’t think).  I have very nice new door cards from Aardvark.  They are very nice.  But the green BMW door clips drive me insane.  Here are some musings on Aardvark door cards and door clips and installation.

1.  Don’t expect Aardvark cards to be plug and play.  The door cards are awesome, but a little bit of fiddling is required.  In particular I think it is best to skive the top of the Aardvark panels and also to clear out any excess door covering from the top of the door.  This lets the card fully seat on the door.  Otherwise, it can sit a bit tall, which is not just visually unappealing it also will cause all sorts of other problems.  For example, your vent windows are intolerant of poorly seated door cards.  It is also best to cut out the excess foam that wraps around the door.  All of this is to get your new door card to fit as close as possible against the door, without too much barrier from the door card or covering.

2.  The Aardvark clip holes required some shaping.  No big deal.  Easily done with an Xacto knife.  Trouble is, that can move the center a little bit off the original center, meaning that your door clips might not go home precisely.

3.  The real problem is the door clips.  This has nothing to do with Aardvark.  In my view, they are junk.  They sometimes crack when you press them into the card (even with a clip installation tool).   They crack and break when they don’t line up perfectly with the door card holes.  They crack and break when you try to remove the card.  When they crack even just a little bit, they lose their will to hold the card against the door.  What is worse, they tenaciously stay put in the door card.  So what you have is a  clip that won’t hold the card but also won’t readily exit the door.  Oh, they are seriously sensitive to a little bit of increased dimension between the card and the door.  Such as high quality door panel vinyl that wraps around the edge.  Or soundproofing.  This can be remedied by trimming and skiving etc.

4.  What will never be fixed is that the green clips will self destruct 70% of the time when you attempt to remove the card.  So they are basically single-use brittle items. The clips also will seriously slice your finger if you aren’t careful.  Basically, they suck.

5.  I am experimenting with Velcro.  This has been used by other illustrious members.  I like it.  You can get it in a very thin forma that does not cause the card to sit proud.  It adheres (if you buy the peel and stick version) quite well to both the card and the door.  It tolerates a mismatch in door card holes and door holes (note, however, that a mismatch can be a signal that your card is not seated properly in the door — not pressed down adequately).

6.  I see no down-side to Velcro unless you have a 100 point concours vehicle.  It keeps the card nice and flat.  It allows for some play in the card.  It should not self-destruct when you need to remove the card in 9 months for some other reason.

7. I considered double sided tape but that runs you into the same single-use problem and potentially worse because that stuff can be tenacious too.

8.  Maybe there are some better green clips (or similar) these days and if there are I would consider them.

On 10/3/2021 at 10:35 AM, esty said:

That could be a flux capacitor — careful.

Anybody received wheels?  FF has been prolific on IG so I’m hoping shipments are going out too.  I have to say I love my new wheels but would not do that again.  

Awesome deal are these available?

Pmd on a few parts.  Thanks 

Will private message you on address for the wiper motor and late signal stalk.  I realize that a prior pm secured the clock.  Thanks

Still available.  These are one-piece snap in caps.  They are different from and incompatible with the caps made with a separate bracket in the back.  I’d also do an even swap for Fondmetal Canonica caps in similar condition.  Thanks for looking.

8 hours ago, Yojedi8802 said:

But it is my habit to learned everything possible about the car while I search for my ideal 02 for the scope of works I intend for the car. 

Maybe this is hyperbole.  But maybe not.  Might as well look into supercharging.   Good luck!