OriginalOwner

Sounds like air in the system somewhere ..... which I'm thinking means a seal is leaking in master and/or slave cylinder.

You also want to keep an eye on fluid level !! Seal leaks generally mean fluid loss.

I'm thinking the quick & easy solution is to replace both master & slave cylinders. Then you know what you've got, and you're good to go for another 10 years or more of worry-free driving.

Cheers,

Carl

Granbury ..... I lived there on & off from 1991 - 1993 when I was working at Comanche Peak. Those are some great driving roads around there.

And no a/c ..... you are A Real Man, tough as nails.

Cheers,

Carl

at time 1:20 is a California car with the old black & yellow license plate ..... man, that's old !!

Cheers,

Carl

wow, I think the last time my engine was that clean was when I bought the car off the showroom floor .....

Cheers,

Carl

p.s. Ziff, since you can't finish the engine, go have dinner at Lum Ka Naad on Reseda Blvd at Rayen ...... some awesome Thai will make the disappointment fade away ....

I just add some motor oil, I'm not particular ..... the shock tube doesn't seem to be either, it has never commented one way or the other.

Cheers,

Carl

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I hope everybody likes pictures .... here's a few from last Sunday in Chino ....

+1 on a 3-row core from the Silicon Garage.

That's what I've got, works great. I bought just the core and had my local radiator guy assemble with the original tanks and frame .... so re-installation is simple, everything fit perfectly.

Cheers,

Carl

one of my classmates lives in West Linn, OR .... near Portland. Right out of college I bought my '74 tii. He drove it a couple of weeks later and ran right out and bought his own '74 2002 (which he sold many years ago). I just received this note from him:

"Last weekend I talked to lady in our town who bought her new green 2002 in 1974 - about the same time I bought my green 2002. She has replaced the engine 3 times and transmission only once, and now has over one million miles on the car."

Might anyone be familiar with this lady ??

Cheers,

Carl

spotted this .... Gorgeous Car !!! posting this just so everyone can look at the car ....

1971 BMW 2800CS E9 (Euro)

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/3259523702.html

Cheers,

Carl

A fantastic lunch today .... bourkeco told his tale of acquiring The Inka. We had our 2002's parked in front, and because of that we met 2 other fellows who don't have 2002's but like 'em .... plenty of stories & tales shared amongst us all.

One fellow, his two very young daughters jumped into the driver's seat of my tii and pretended to drive all over SoCal while their dad was telling stories of his M3.

The co-owner of Centro Basco, Bernadette, she and I sat in bourkeco's car and pretended we were driving to McNally's to share a 40-oz Porterhouse steak for dinner.

Cheers,

Carl

I had the same problem a few years back, my local starter rebuild shop installed a new solenoid ..... no problems since.

So I bought another one, it's in my parts locker for future use.

Cheers,

Carl

Hopefully he can make the hand-off at Centro Basco tomorrow !!

Cheers,

Carl

Some have been following The Love Story thread ....

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,376669/

bourkeco and I will be having lunch this Sunday in Chino, and bourkeco will be telling his story about getting The Inka, and it's repairs, and his plans.

So I reckon this is a "general invite" to all who would like to join us for The Telling Of The Tale. Bring your 2002 for show and tell !! My '74 tii will be there.

Lunch is family-style (and huge, bring an appetite !! cost is about $22 total), seating is promptly at 12:30pm, and Centro Basco courtesy rules are to be on time. Please meet in the bar.

I anticipate arriving around noon. I will be wearing a brown ball cap with a USC logo, and a black t-shirt with a "McNallys" logo. Whoever is tending bar can point me out.

Centro Basco

13432 S. Central Ave

Chino

www.centrobasco.net

Cheers,

Carl

Florida,

I just realized something else: when you used the crown nut to put everything in place ..... maybe you didn't actually get the race fully seated !! The stresses of driving would seat it soon enough, the adjustment would open up to who knows what, and then the wheel would be "flopping" around on the axle ..... not good.

Using the hammer method, you will be 100% certain the race is fully seated where it belongs.

Cheers,

Carl

"phew" ..... you keep the car, you'll have a few more of those over the next 40 years. They'll be more than worth it.

Cheers,

Carl

I would think 10-40W during the winter would make for easier starting.

being a SoCal flatlander, I've used both 10-40W and 20-50W for all the "extreme" weather we have here.

and back when the car was new, I used a straight 30W for quite a few years.

Cheers,

Carl

EXCELLENT !! An easy fix !! a bitch to get there, but you've become a knowledge consultant for others on the Forum.

Now you're getting an idea of why this car is so special: it is worth the minor headaches and heartaches because the driving experience is worth it. A "cool factor" many will never know, much less understand.

Cheers,

Carl

Steve,

cruise to Chino for lunch on Sunday !!

Cheers,

Carl

I'm confused in SoCal !!

SO, you used the "tablespoon fuel delivery system" to get the engine running.

The next test: do that again just to get the engine running, then no more fuel, and see if the engine will run for an hour !! In other words, burn off all your tablespoon-delivered fuel. If the fuel pump is working, the engine will continue to run.

The fact that you shut it down, then discovered that the fuel pump isn't squirting fuel ..... that's a very good indicator the pump is trash.

Trying the above "next test" is a method to again test if the fuel pump is working.

Cheers,

Carl

THAT is the question ...... and the only real safe answer is Yes.

Denting the surface of the outer race is one consideration, and creating a "flat" on one of the rollers is another. And a third consideration is tweaking the housing that carries the rollers.

And the only feasible method to determine if the bearing is trash is to remove it and take it to someone who can measure all that stuff to thousandth's (and ten thousandths's) of an inch.

A new bearing costs "nothing," the time to replace is minimal ..... compared to the peace of mind knowing you won't have to worry about it for another zillion miles.

Cheers,

Carl

with a steel punch, you are pretty much guaranteed to gouge the bearing surface if it slips ......

with a brass punch, you've got a much better chance it won't gouge .....

when I was young and reckless, I used a steel punch. I would press it down on the race edge, pull it very tightly against the hub, and tap tap tap.

then I got older and less courageous and bought a brass rod.

just like welding cast iron: go slow, be patient, stay confident, don't get overconfident and try to go faster.

Cheers,

Carl

YouTube has Everything !!

this will help ...... what has been discussed above is seen here ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k2T79nHXgw

Cheers,

Carl

Sunday, 12:30pm ..... we can discuss it over a long lunch at Centro Basco !!

Cheers,

Carl

Standard issue is a 2-row ....... those vertical tubes in the core of the radiator. 3-row gives you another row, hence more surface area for cooling.

2 years ago I bought a 3-row core and had my local radiator shop do all the labor.

Checking my 2-yr-old notes, Mark Preisendorf near Oakland, CA is a BMW community contact for a 3-row core, or for a complete radiator.

as best I know, his email: silicongarage02@gmail.com

I'm sure there are other sources .....

Cheers,

Carl

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