OriginalOwner

2002's are built for semi-serious off-roading ....

Cheers,

Carl

Excellent, get 'em started when they are young.

One of my college classmates bought a new '74 when he graduated. Many years later his son was driving it.

Cheers,

Carl

did an overnight at McNally's Lodge along the Kern River (California).

and that is original paint .... still looks pretty good after 37+ years.

Cheers,

Carl

E10 available in Glendale, CA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370649979396

Cheers,

Carl

A beautiful SoCal day and an excellent cruise back home: 118 east to the 210 to the 57 to the 60 to Chino ..... lunch with friends at my favorite place, Centro Basco .... then Carbon Canyon (Hwy 142) to Brea and to home. 98 miles total. light traffic, and the '74 tii just hummed right along.

I crawled under the car with "Jaws" ..... my 10" pipe wrench. Nothing can resist Jaws. I don't know what I did last time I changed oil, but it sure seemed like I had tightened that drain plug to 250 ft-lbs. It wasn't stuck, but it sure was tight. And lots of grit in the threads, it was really grinding when being removed.

And this time I used a new copper sealing washer, the old aluminum one was quite flat and deformed.

Cheers,

Carl

So I finally work up the energy to change the oil. Get everything ready to go. The difference is I'm at my dad's house, not my house, so I don't have the 19mm box end wrench I've been using for 30+ years. So I grab an adjustable wrench instead ...... and start rounding corners on the drain plug. Fortunately I was smart enough to stop before I ruined everything.

Anyway, I'll be back home tomorrow and I have all the right tools, of whatever variety, to get the drain plug removed. And I'll go buy a new drain plug.

Some days it just ain't worth the effort to work up the energy to do the right thing.

Cheers,

Carl

AWESOME !!!

Cheers,

Carl

A C Clip or U Clip style would work just fine, and easy to install.

Cheers,

Carl

gotta love a straightforward conversation with the local BMW expert.

so, back to the "friendly DMV clerk" scenario ......

Cheers,

Carl

I've seen that view from Coronado across the water a few hundred dozens of times going over the bridge. I spent a few years of on & off living in the "gated community" of the NavPhiBase.

Cheers,

Carl

If you can get the DMV clerk to make it a '75 ..... you're golden !!

Certainly worth the effort to bypass the smog testing nonsense now and forever.

----- another reason I don't want to ever sell my '74.

Cheers,

Carl

Sadly, not just yet .......

THIS website, with VIN in sequential order, would indicate a 1976 !!

http://members.roadfly.org/karlkarlb/2002_registry.htm

definitely need some help here ....

Cheers,

Carl

your YEAR MODEL is 1975 ..... you should be golden !!!

your VIN check says 1975 ....

http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

at the above website I checked my own VIN, it says "1974" which is correct for my car.

IMHO, you have a 1975 .... but other Forumites need to doublecheck.

Cheers,

Carl

I think that as long as the "pink slip" says 1975 for model year, you will be OK. The pink slip is the "official document" as far as the DMV is concerned .... if it says your car is a 1975, then you have a 1975.

OH, can you contact the previous owner ?? Ask if he/she had to smog the car. That will tell you.

(naturally I'm guessing at this info ..... my '74 went "golden" quite a few years back).

Cheers,

Carl

losing water, white smoke puffs .... I had that problem in 1999, it was the head gasket. Fortunately did not warp or crack the head. A new head gasket and all has been fine since then. Hope for the best !!

Cheers,

Carl

sounds to me like the thermostat is not opening. A cold lower hose (outlet from the radiator) would indicate no coolant flow through the radiator.

Cheers,

Carl

if the insurance people wonder what the car is worth, send 'em to this Forum .... won't take long to understand how truly valuable the 2002 is !!

Cheers,

Carl

my worst nightmare ......

Cheers,

Carl

p.s. for that: never too early for a drink. I saw that .... and just now took a small sip myself.

Yes !! Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of the combustion process. Very deadly in the right circumstances.

Cheers,

Carl

I read that link to brake bleeding. I like that gravity method .... LOL !!

The old-fashioned two-man method, I do it slightly different.

Rather than pump 5 times .....

1) I open the bleeder screw just a bit.

2) I then yell "down" at my pal .... he pushes the pedal to the floor and stops, then yells "down" at me. I then close the bleeder screw.

3) I yell "up" and my pal lets the pedal up, then yells "up" when it is fully up.

I repeat 1-2-3 until I have a Clean, Clear, & bubble-free stream of fresh fluid.

Fluid and air only move in one direction: downstream from master cylinder to brake cylinder and out. No chance to pull anything back in since the bleeder screw is always closed when the pedal moves "up."

Something different .....

Cheers,

Carl

I've been using a Purolator oil filter (I think the 10183) since November 1974 ..... my tii was living at the NavPhibBase in those days .....

Cheers,

Carl

in Mira Loma (east of Ontario) for some wine tasting ....

Cheers,

Carl

That should do it !!

Cheers,

Carl

this is just an historical commentary on my experience ....

After 38 years I still have the original master cylinder body, and about 14 years ago I installed a new internal parts rebuild kit. I smoothed the interior hole with some emery cloth and reassembled. No problems.

Several years ago I installed a complete new slave cylinder, only because I could not find a rebuild kit.

As a "perhaps" idea: before installing new master & slave cylinders, take 'em apart and inspect to see what they look like inside ?? And that everything is correctly installed & oriented .... maybe one of the rubber cups is installed backward ??

Cheers,

Carl

Kelly,

LOL .... the crank journal feels "smooth" .... it wouldn't take long to pound out a new bearing, should you put one in. Everything in there has to be perfect for the bearing to survive. And how a set of rod bearings can take all that punishment for years and decades without self-destructing ..... one of the mysteries of the universe in my mind.

Anyway, looking at that bearing: the crankshaft journal is probably trashed, we're talking just a few thousandths of an inch between "good" and "trash." Not to mention what else may be damaged, as discussed by others above.

In a situation like this, the only way to regain reliability is to fix it right. Definitely a bummer, but that's what it is when a rod bearing looks like that.

Cheers,

Carl