mikea

C.D

I think you are correct

I should just bite the bullet and pull the head

I'll have the valves ground, and replace guides & seals

do you think I should replace all rockers?

IE sells FEBI brand for around $ 15.00

welcome any recommendations

mike

first valve adj on BMW

when loosening the adj nut/bolt assy on No. 1 intake

rather than the nut turning, the bolt turned and broke the end of the rocker arm. = arrggghhh.

question: what is involved to replace that rcker arm- it looks like it will involve

the head coming off- some one tell me I'm wrong

mike

(this is '74 2002 carb'ed)

hello

I had meant to buy that air filter before

still for sale?

I am in Berkeley

could get it

mike@abiindustries.com

haven't seen one

mike@abiindustries.com

i'll buy the blue if it's still available.

paypal?

mike

c.d

this is great info, as usual

thanks.

The limit bracket- I don't think I even have it.

I will check when I get home.

I believe it's missing

is this a dealer item or available?

would you know the part number?

mike

while driving up a long grade

for the first time ever i noticed my temp gage rising

and my speed slowing.

I turned on the heat in the car, but still no relief

I could not really pull over and was headed in the caldecott tunnel

when I declutched I heard a loud noise

when I could finally pull over I saw that the fan blade had

cut into the radiator- shredded it

I had the car towed home

later when it cooled i could easily start it ( very briefly )

to drive up into my garage

so i need at minimum:

new radiator

new fan.

but I notice that the engine seems very loose on its mounts

I can move it back and forth easily

so we get to my question:

is it the motor & transmission mounts that keep the engine fixed?

somehow the whole engine must have moved forward

to allow the fan blade to shred the radiator.

what about the urethane engine & trans. mount from Ireland?

will this solve it?

also: I never had a fan shroud- is this standard on 2002?

I am going to put it all together and see if there was any real engine damage

from over heating.

so:

1. does anyone recommend the urethane mounts from IE or elsewhere?

2. do I need a fan shroud? dealer item?

3. any options on the red fan? the blades seem quite flexible!

4. should I change the water pump while I am in there?

mike

thanks very much for the info

I'll report back!

mike

c.d.

thanks for your help

I had set the ignition timing as per your recent recomendation

( w. adv hose disconnected at 1500 rpm )

i will figure out what those jet sizes are, but in the meantime i will adj the valves.

can you tell me the correct intake & exhaust valve settings?

thanks

mike

but i adjusted idle & mixture screws for best idle

( if i turn in the mix screw more it idles worse/more slowly )

could it be the jetting is wrong?

mike

you guys were all quite helpful when I was putting my new weber 32/36 on

I had jetting questions... bottom line- I installed with the mystery jetting from weberdirect and it seems fine- idles rock solid etc.

today drove about 200 miles- Bay Area to Jenner CA & back beautiful day.

question: on downhill with the engine in gear

i often get a lot of black smoke out the back.

i have mixture screw adjusted for best idle.

it's only on downhill / deceleration I get this smoke

any ideas

we're talking about '74 2002-weber 32/36- vacuum adv dist.

mike

nice

'74 hilux was my first truck

rust red!

the drum brakes were hard to keep in adjustment

on the good side, if I lost my key, she'd start with any old key!

costco's price, esp. for Michelin, is pretty good.

I am a little worried about the size

the original tire, I think is 165HR13 has OD of 23.2"

the 175/70R13 has an OD of 22.6

pretty close, but it is smaller

people seem to be saying that there is no real problem

need some opinions

what do people think about some michelin

175/70-13

i can get from costco ?

too small?

what was the original tire size?

mike

do you still have this?

I am in Berkeley

mike

when will these be available again?

mike

Berkeley CA

Glenn

Thanks for this info.

i have a few rust holes in the floor of my trunk that will make this procedure even easier

mike

hey all

my 74 2002 carb. version

this concerns the charcoal canister in the engine compartment.

can I just lose it?

( I had already 86'd the hose from it to air cleaner)

I suspect it might not be doing much good 36 years on...

if I get rid of it, what about the rest of that system?

the plastic box under the parcel shelf, and all the way to the filler neck in the trunk.

can I just plug that hose at the neck? or maybe get an earlier neck

without the hose?

would I ever regret losing all this stuff from a functional standpoint?

thanks

mike

i had a plastic/aluminum Behr radiator on my mercedes 240D

the plastic hose port failed without warning, resulting in a very expensive tow home.

all-metal radiators only for me!

mike

OK-

I tested the relay- it's defective

i'll get a new one

I imagine it's a dealer item?

when I jump the proper slots in the socket I get good sound!

but when I look at the brass ring in the steering wheel

I don't see what will hold it under tension

maybe there is a spring missing?

I don't know what this should look like

anyone care to comment on my photo?

thanks for the info.

I'll try to jump it at the relay socket

this car came to me with various bits missing / mis-worked,

and generally FU

but we're getting there!

do you know where the horn relay is situated?

I was going to test there.

the fuse is good

thanks

mike

any one want to advise re my horn.

1. how does the control work? does pressing the horn button

ground the horn wire? touching the wire pictured to ground has no effect.

2. is there a relay involved? what is the small relay shown in the photo?

3. could i be missing the relay? what about the empty relay slot pictured?

did anything go there?

any help much appreciated.

mike

my '74 2002 came to me with a nice momo wheel- wood

I need to take it off to fix the horn button-

( there seems to be something missing-the brass ring should have a spring behind it ?)

any event, first thing is get the wheel off. it's held on with 6 flat-head

allen bolts. they are all super tight. the hex drive will just strip them.

I tried wd-40 etc.

any one ever done this?

any ideas?

I know these are hard to drill!

mike

that all makes good sense except: shouldn't the ignigtion ( pos. coil wire)

be switched ?

isn't cutting power to the + coil what shuts off the engine?