EcoAuto

I had the e12 head rebuilt at a local machine shop last year, and I supplied them with the rebuild parts, including that head gasket you see - which I bought from RMEuropean.com. After getting very valuable feedback from you guys, I made a decision. Rather than rebuilding the head again, or buying a rebuilt head, I'm going with a complete Tii engine that was rebuilt by La Jolla Independent. An FAQer who decided not to install it in his 02, saw my post and offered it to me. It's a "plug 'n play" '74 with Kugelfisher, injectors, pipes, runners, manifold, starter, distributor, etc all included. My other option was a Metric Mechanic rebuild. They have a 2200 ST HiFlow 155 HP for a Tii on hand, and are discounting it by $500. It's more engine than I need, and I had some concerns about the forged pistons. So I went with the stock La Jolla rebuild. Photos of the La Jolla Independent engine I'm buying from Kurt Bicknell attached.

Here's a birds eye view of my e12 pistons - ready for an engine rebuild. Piano pattern. I believe they're Mahle 89.22 MM(+0,25) P/N 11251261928

Hi Ken, The 10.0.1 pistons were already in the engine (with the Schrick 292) when I became the car's new guardian last year. I have paperwork going back to 1999, at which time a valve job was done at Road Rockets in Marin, CA. That was 50,000 miles ago (OD now shows 164K). The rebuilt tii engine must have been installed quite some time before that... probably mid 80's. The reason I'm concerned is that I'm interested in a complete, recently rebuilt Tii engine (rebuilt by La Jolla Independent) that I came upon, and it has 10.0.1 pistons, a stock cam and e12 head.

It's a 74 Tii engine with a Kugelfisher FI, refurbished at Pacific Fuel Injection, and rebuilt injectors. The head is an e12. The distributor is new from Ireland Engineering's with IE Pertronix.

I was told by a reputable engine guru (known in the 02 community for building high-performance ported and surface turbulence engines with forged pistons) that 10.0.1 cast pistons in an 02 block with e12 head and stock 260 cam can increase compression high enough to crack the head. I'm concerned because my engine was showing compression of 150 or so, before having a valve job and head rebuild. I had the machine shop exchange the Schrick 292 for a stock 260 cam (from Ireland Engineering), to settle down the lumpy idle. After the engine compression went up to 195 all around. Was this due to the cam change or perhaps the head shaving? Will 195 compression damage a standard 36 year old e12 head that might have been welded over the years? I was also experiencing run-on detonation on warmer days, even though the engine temp was midway between cold and hot. Using 93 octane fuel or 91 octane with octane booster. I'm replacing the head and wondering if I should reuse the nearly new IE cam, or if I want to match the 10.0.1 pistons with another 292 cam.

Hey Scott, Great to know there's another 02er in Montana. I was beginning to think I was the only one here. I heard about the Kalispell 02 but never saw it. Im in Bozeman and bought a Fjord '75 with a '74 Tii engine. It had literally been orphaned in Helena. I plan to be in Missoula a week from Wednesday. Would love to see your car. Email a pic if you get the chance. Ron at ecoautoinc dot com.

Ken - Strictly normal street driving and weekend pleasure cruises on Montana's open winding mountain roads. Once the snow threatens to fall, the car goes into climate controlled hibernation. My engine's e12 head is ready to be retired, but the block, judging by the 195 compression all around, seems to be fine. I've ruled out buying a used head because I don't want to worry about the engine again since I live in a state with virtually no BMW presence. There's not even a BMW dealer in Montana. Pitifully, I don't have the skills, tools, facilities or friends willing to help me rebuild an engine myself, and I don't trust local machine shops to rebuild it. I emailed your associate Saul earlier today and asked for clarification on the issues you bring up - Availability, actual cost, shipping charges to 59715, core charge, BMW warranty, who actually rebuilds the engines and their compatibility with my newly rebuilt Kugelfisher FI and injectors. I'm trying to build on others experience, so I can make the best decision. Leading options: 1. Buy a new head from Max. 2. Buy a new / rmfd engine from Max. 3. Buy a remanufactured / ported / complete head from Metric Mechanic. 4. Buy a remanufactured ported, blueprinted 2200 ST engine from Metric Mechanic. This would give me as much performance as I'll ever need.

Anyone recently purchase a remanufactured engine from Maximillian? If so, I'd love to hear about your experience, engine performance review, any problems encountered and overall opinion on the engine. The engines are listed as P/N 11009056520, 11001263390 and 11001261408 on the Max site. They sell for between $4234 and $4867 plus core charge. I've seen them priced $1K more on realOEM.com. Does anyone know who is rebuilding these? I assume they're coming from Mobile Tradition. I've written Max to ask for confirmation, but am more interested in knowing about your "end user" opinion. http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2214&mospid=47140&btnr=11_2359&hg=11&fg=05 http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2233&mospid=47141&btnr=11_2359&hg=11&fg=05

That's great. Well, if you'd like a "second opinion," following surgery, my daughter is in recovery at Missoula hospital and all is looking good. Frankly, my wife would be thrilled to get rid of me for a few hours. I took a break today and checked out Larry's Foreign Car service. Charles could certainly check out compression and other mechanical basics for you. Good luck with your new 02.

Hi Simon, We're here in Missoula today through tomorrow. I have some time if you still would like somebody to check out the 02. My cell is 406 223 3242.

Thanks Bob. Suggestion much appreciated. I did call Paul at AutoHaus Exec in Burlingame shortly after his original post. They were very helpful and sent me information about the head they had available. It's an unassembled e12 head, and had been welded. That made me a little unsure I wanted to go that way, despite the low price.

I know just enough about my Tii engine to be dangerous, but not enough to make an informed choice. I humbly ask for your reading time and opinions. My mechanic found large valve clearance on #3 exhaust valve. Inspection w/ scope through spark plug hole showed # 3 exhaust seat came out, holding the valve open. He recommends replacing the cylinder head and I agree. My 02 was manufactured in November 74. PO installed an E12 head and Kugelfisher years ago. No paperwork to show when, how or where. The engine's block casting date is Aug 75. The E12 head was cast in Oct '74. Paperwork shows about 110K / 1999, E12 head was rebuilt - new valves, etc and a crack welded. I bought the car last year at 163k. The engine was lumpy. Compression 195 on all four. Pistons are either 10:1 or 9.5:1 Soon #3 exhaust valve stuck. Mechanic pulled head and sent it to the machine shop for a rebuild. Machine shop noticed hairline crack adjacent to exhaust valve #3. They welded it. Machine show swapped the installed 292 Schrick for an IE 160 cam. The Kugelfisher pump went to Pacific Fuel Injections for a rebuild. 4 newly rebuilt injectors and a new Ireland Petronix distributor when in. The engine idled smoothly and had nice power. Checked valve clearance at 300 miles. Hadn't moved. 650 miles after the rebuild, #3 valve stuck. Replacing the E12 head options: 1. BMW Mobile Tradition sells new E12 heads for $1,000. No core charge. 2. Used heads, condition unknown, seem to be plentiful for about $100. 3. Complete rebuilt heads are out there for about $500. 4. 2002AD sells a rebuilt head for $1000 plus core charge. 5. Metric Mechanics sells rebuilt ported performance heads from $1.5 to $2k, plus core charge. I'm leaning towards option #5. I'd love to get confirmation that Metric Mechanic's HiFlow head are the wise choice. Assuming so, do I go with MM's stock cam or spend another $500 for more power with their "sport' ST head with their 292 cam. Or am I going to have a lumpy again, like with my Schrick 292?

We had to go to Missoula unexpectedly and are here through Friday morning. (My daughter is having what we hope will be minor surgery at the hospital). If you still want someone to check the 02 out, I might have some time. You can email me - ron at ecoautoinc dot com Best, Ron Gompertz

Much appreciate the recommendation on Midnight Motorsport. I'll check out the website and email Patrick.

I'm considering a rebuild on my 72 Tii engine, and want to know if there is 02 expertise in Salt Lake City UT or Spokane WA. I recently had the Kugelfisher pump and injectors rebuilt, so I shouldn't need to worry about those components. Can anyone recommend Tii expertise in either city, or am I better off going the extra 400 miles to Seattle or Portland? If so, where should I go in the Pacific Northwest for an engine rebuild?

Will take an XL please.

Hi LeeJohn, Mucho appreciation for the offer. Our local 02 maven is on vacation this week and I want to get his thoughts when he returns. I'll know more then. How many miles on the head? Any info on it's general history/condition? Ron

I may need to replace the head on my '72 Tii engine. The #3 exhaust valve stuck. It's frustrating because I just had the head rebuilt less than 600 miles ago by the local "go to" machine shop. They replaced all 4 exhaust valves, eccentrics, etc and installed a new stock spec cam from Ireland Engineering. They found a nearly invisible hairline fracture adjacent to the #3 exhaust valve, and I had them repair it. We checked valve clearance after the first 300 miles and no adjustment was needed. The engine was running beautifully until 300 miles later when #3 got stuck, and I had AAA tow her back. Am I better off returning the head to the machine shop and getting them to diagnose and fix, find a good used head, buy a brand new head from a Mobile Traditions distributor ($850). Could anyone recommend a reliable source for a well rebuilt head? Anyone here using Metric Mechanic's HiFLO heads?

I might be driving to Spokane WA within the next month, and I'd be driving through Missoula. Stay in touch and let me know how it goes. And make sure that car wasn't driven in winter. They use corrosive Magnesium Chloride on th roads for snow melt here.

I'm an 02 owner in Bozeman, Montana, and I'd be more than happy to take a look at the 02 if I have other business in Missoula soon. Sorry, but I don't currently. It's a 400 miles / 6 hour round trip from here.... which by Montana standards is a local drive. Missoula is a progressive University town, and there are likely to be a number of vintage car people there. Two businesses that could check out the basics for you (compression test, electronics, brakes, rust, etc): DeMarois Mercedes Benz 3115 West Broadway Street Missoula, MT 59808-1613 (406) 721-4000 http://www.demarois.mercedesdealer.com/ Culver's Foreign Car Service Inc & Sales 2302 Mcdonald Ave # A, Missoula, MT 59801-7309 (406) 721-5857 ‎ Best, Ron Gompertz Bozeman MT

Nicely said Paul. Totally agree. I owned an Austin Healey 3000 between 1989 and 1996... most of those 7 years on my back underneath the thing. Talk about a car that stresses you out and makes you nuts!!!! I sold it finally, and even though I lost $15K, those years I spent bringing it back from the dead are memories I'll always cherish.

There's no arguing with the value of paint and body work, the satisfaction of driving a shiny new looking car, and the high cost of doing business.. especially if you're in a high cost of living region and need to cover rent, labor, workman's comp, insurance, environmental and hazmat expenses. The problem for 02 owners, is it's difficult to rationalize spending $4K or more to eliminate a few minor rust blemishes. The fact that most of our cars are valued somewhere between $5K and $15k makes paint/body work a difficult expense to rationalize. That market value accounts for the majority of our 02's. For a higher-value collector car, sure it's well worth the money to keep it looking it's best. But with most of our 02's, we use them as drivers, no show cars, and the cost of cosmetic rust / paint work probably won't come back to us. Of course, the alternative, to let the cars rust away, is not a good option either.

Yep, the rust bubbles are at the bottom corner of the door where the outer skin meets the inner door. I suspect this is a common weak spot since water collects in this corner.

Part of the problem is living in a town with a captive audience, few paint shops, fewer vintage cars, and more demand than supply as damaging hail storms have become an annual Summer occurrence these last few years. The next town with a body shop is over a mountain pass 30 miles away. Might find a better deal there. I'd like to find a community garage where I could learn the DIY solution. Our single car garage is filled with bicycles, lawn mowers and stuff, and is unheated. There's room for the 02 and to do light mechanical upkeep, but not enough room to do bodywork or painting.