tomorrowcalling

Waikorea Valley Rd    https://maps.google.co.nz/maps?q=-37.598048,174.83418&num=1&t=h&z=14&iwloc=A

Here's why https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psKGcJz6en4

Hi,

I'm in the process of making some 4 into 1 headers (one the joy's of owning a right hand drive 2002 is that the IE and Shahl ones don't fit).  Hunting around the internet has given me 1/2 a dozen formulas which give  1/2 a dozen answers although many of them are around 34".

However scaling off pictures of IE and Shahl headers suggest a shorter primary length more line 29".

Does anybody have some firm recommendations.

Engine is fuel injected, with 325 throttle body and 305° cam, I was going to make the headers stepped 1.5" into 1.624" and a 2.5" collector. Basically an IE performance header turned into a plumbers nightmare to clear my steering box.

If you're at a loose end in Sydney, you may find this fun..

http://www.sydneyclassiccarhire.com.au/pageDisplay.php?module=page&pid=50

Thanks for everybody's comments,

So far my main take aways have been,

1    The car needs a better exhaust, is anybody aware of a supplier that makes headers for a RHD car.?

2    It needs to go back on the dyno.

3    Checking the ignition trigger is a good point,  I don't have a scope but I do have a very good timing light so I guess if I ran it up until  it was fully advanced and check to see if the marks are jumping around it will give me a bit of an indication if this is an issue.

Other comments.

Just because the dyno run stopped at 5800, doesn't mean I do. I rev it to about 7500 as it's definitely where the power is.

After discussing things with my co-driver / wife changing to carbs is still an option but it would be mainly so that we change classes.

Currently we have to run as a modified historic which buts us up against historic cars with modern engines, changing to carbs puts us back in the historic class.  (Plus I need to buy a set of carbs eventually for another project so even if I change back to fuel injection, the money is not wasted)

Putting aside any issues my car may have, I guess a more general question is,

Does fuel injection with a 318 manifold have more performance potential than a set of 45 DCOE's?

(I'm well aware that I've asked a "how long is a piece of string" type question and the answer is "it depends" but I'm interested to hear opinions)

Using a dyno that reports greater results depends on whether he wants a real power increase or more bragging rights.

What I want is to get closer to the Pinto engined Escorts.  The BDA and Duratec powered ones however, are long gone.

Here's the Dyno sheet

Total advance is 36° above 3300 rpm and WOT.

Injector duty is 50% @ WOT, from memory I think they're 250cc

Fuel is 98 RON

When the car was tuned it was on a Dynapack dyno (hub dyno), the operator is very well respected in local motorsport circles so I don't believe there's huge gains to be made there.

I'm using a fairly large K & N filter, K & N suggest it's Ok for 3.0 litres.  Exhaust is 2" with a fairly free flow muffler. (The car's quite loud).

The 2" section starts from where the two down pipes join.

Hi All,

I use my 2002 as a club rally /hillclimb car.  When I built the engine I was aiming for a 150 Hp but the dyno suggests that I missed by about 20-30 Hp. I'm now on a search for my missing ponies, don't get me wrong it runs really well and was professionally tuned by a well regarded local motorsport tuner so there's nothing actually broken.

The engine is 10:1 compression ratio with JE pistons  +1mm oversized valves and a 304° cam.

I run a E30 318 inlet manifold with a E30 325 throttle body, and an LInk ECU.  The exhaust manifold is off a 520 which looks to be the same as a Tii one.  I'm restricted on what I can do with the exhaust as I'm RHD.

I suspect the issue is the 318 manifold is just not flowing well enough to suit the cam,  does anyone have experience that would confirm that suspicion ?.

I'd appreciate comments on my options which seem to be,

Change to a twin DCOE 45 setup.  Pros: kits are not that expensive (about $1500), it will but me back into the historic class for some events.  Cons: I like that I can reach in through the window, turn the key and it will start, I may lose some low range driveabilty.

Change to DCOE type fuel injection throttle bodies, Pros: should make good power, Cons:  kind of expensive.

Change to a Tii inlet manifold, I believe they flow better than the 318, modifying it to take EFI injectors should be within my skill set.  Pros: probably the cheapest option, Cons: Will it make a significant difference?.

Build my own inlet system based on motorcycle throttle bodies, it's probably right on the edge of my skill set, the learning curve could be quite expensive.

You might get lucky ringing BNT or Autostop or the like but you're probably better ordering them from Autohaus  (http://www.autohausaz.com). Every time I've asked a  local agent, they've said that they would be special order - 4 to 6 weeks . Autohaus will probably get them to you in less than 2

Are you sure you're trying to measure the pulse correctly?, injectors normally have a constant 12V to one side and the ECU switches the ground.  In a 2002 conversion you could just wire the positive side of injectors into the the same circuit as the coil.

I checked this earlier this year. The E21 LSD center is the same size as the dimensions on the Quaffe drawing.

I can't see why there would be any issues in swapping out a E21 LSD for a Quaffe one. However if you're starting from an open E21 diff you'll need new side covers, as both the Quaffe & the E21 Lsd are narrower than an open E21 diff.

Something like this?

https://maps.google.co.nz/maps?q=-37.417805,174.743201&hl=en&sll=-37.41801,174.742988&sspn=0.005837,0.0134&t=h&z=13

If anyone is interested, here's a link to some photos from the event we were in

http://clubsportphotos.weebly.com/trigg-rd.html

I'm 100% certain that you'll need to either machine or weld something to swap the distributor shafts.

Swapping the cam shafts on the other hand will be time consuming but everything should just bolt together.

A third alternative would be to use an E30 distributor and graft the electronic ignition from an E30 into the 2002. Mechanically simpler but you need to be good with wiring. IIRC the ignition system from an E30 are stand alone modules not connected to the rest of the injection system.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the mechanical advance mechanism always advance the timing? so in your case it will retard.

It may be simpler to change the camshaft to a 2002 one

From memory it wasn't hard, I remember having to lathe something but I can't remember what (I think it was just a spacer). But please note I threw all the advance mechanism away and welded the top part of the shaft to the lower.

How are you doing advance?. If you just changed the gear the distributor will be retarding instead of advancing.

I have an oil leak from where my distributor does into the head housing.

This is a 318i head (unknown origin... junkyard) using a 1974 2002 distributor.

The o-ring was replaced already.

The leak only occurs with the engine running/hot. It unfortunately drops oil directly onto the exhaust manifold- fire hazard and lots of smoke. Just changed the oil with fresh 20w-50 dino juice.

Thoughts?

Is the distributor spinning the correct way?. There is a spiral groove running up the shaft which seems to pump oil back into the engine. If you've got the distributor running backwards the groove pumps oil out of the engine.

I ask because you appear to have a mismatch in distributor rotation directions, E30 318 versus 2002.

I ran into a similar issue when I adapted an E30 distributor on to a 2002 head. I had to change the shaft, drive gear & lock the advance mechanism to make it work. (advance was done in the ECU)

That guy's speedometer wasn't working. Must be a sub-par build effort.

The end of the inner cable sheared off touring to the 1st run on the previous event (Waikorea rd) and I'm still trying to source a replacement.

craigtickle's video looks like a lot of fun, but I wonder what kind of suspension setup the man's got to handle that kind of road.

It's set up quite a bit softer than a track car but still stiffer than stock

250 lb front springs with Bilsteins, 175 lb (effective) rear springs also with Bilsteins. I run a complete E30 rear end so the actual rear spring rate is higher.

The ride height is close to stock & I have a big alloy sump guard

Public road stages like Waikorea valley Rd & Otorohaea Trigg Road are generally quite smooth, it's when you go to Maramarua Forest that you start to break things. Those bloody 4WD tractors (aka Evos & Imprezzas) tend to drag huge rocks on to the road

.

Thanks for posting, because now I want to convert my `67 to a RHD car

Don't do that - the steering box gets in the way of a decent exhaust system

So after a bunch of measuring, I designed a side cover plate and had a company I work with machine them.

Total cost for the two side covers and a couple of spacers was less than half of what my local dealer wanted for 1 side cover.

Here's a drawing if anyone else ever is in the position of having a LSD center, but a normal housing and has access to a good machine shop.

To the poster who managed to put an E30 LSD center into a 2002 housing - Respect!. I had to remove a small amount of material from the inside of my housing to get my LSD center to fit. Getting the e30 LSD center must of been hellish.

I doubt that it would fit, the room on that side of the engine is extremely limited. Production RHD cars use a pair of remote boosters mounted on the left hand side of the engine bay.

Instead of making new side covers, could you make a set of 3.75mm spacers for the LSD bearings and then shave 3.75mm off the side cover mounting area ? In theory, this would push the LSD bearings out 7.5mm and push the side covers in 7.5mm(kind of spliting the difference). I'm not sure how this would or if it would affect the installation of the output shafts/stub axles.

I wish I would have measured the width of all the diff units when I had them out of the cases. My E30 LSD unit fit in all the cases I have(E21,2002,E30) with out any problems. The E30 was the only LSD unit that I have and fit with all the cases with the open diff side covers installed.

Perhaps however I'd worry that bearing wouldn't be supported enough. My next step will be to do some very careful measuring and model the components in Solidworks, then I can play with alternatives

Last time I checked they were still available, about $180 us each. These are for the 4 bolt 2002 cases not the 6 bolt E21 cases

Local BMW dealer is quoting $NZ419 each plus 15% GST for the side covers and $177.40 each plus 15% GST for the stub axles (ex Germany).

I'm seriously considering having a go at making the side covers myself.

Thanks for everyones input,

After a bit more measuring, I believe I can use the output flanges I have but will need to get some lsd specific side covers. I'll ring the dealer on Monday, I'm kind of dreading the numbers he's likely to quote. Any body got a spare set that they wouldn't mind sending to New Zealand?

Are you ready to do some home work?

http://www.quaife.co.uk/

You will need to search and click on the application to get to a drawing with measurements to find out what your diff is actually for.

Good luck...

Thanks for that link, the results are interesting. According to some quick measurements the lsd I have conforms to the drawing that quaife lists for a 2002.

I wonder if I have a genuine 2002 LSD.

To add to my confusion, it would appear that the diff I thought was a 2002 is actually an early E21 as the stub shafts are held on by circlips on the inside of the spider gears, not by bolts as the article in the FAQ states.

Or one of these things is not like the others...

From left to right the Diff heads are,

2002, E21 (6 bolt side caps) E30 (small), a LSD which was sold to be as for an E21

As you can see the lsd is about 15mm too narrow compared to the others , does any body have any idea what it may fit?

The thing is both the E21 & E30 stub axles fit, the retaining clip seems to be in the right spot and it looks like any of the ring gears will fit.