tomorrowcalling

So the mystery of my missing ponies  has been finally solved. Turns out the cam that was sold to me as a 304° regrind was actually a 292° regrind.  

The blue line the new 304° cam I've just installed, the red the old 292° cam.  

The air/fuel is not quite where we'd like it but my ECU is tuned using a custom programming module rather than a laptop and it has issues which made life difficult for the tuner.

I hit over 100 mph on Boundary Rd, in Maramarua Forest. The next run through was faster but I didn't dare take my eyes off the road.

Boundary rd is about 3 mins into this clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4-gOV5ZGfw

It looks to me like the LHD one will fit, if you re-route the lines.  I use a generic aftermarket 3/4" master cylinder in my RHD rally car.  It has the outlet on the top and doesn't have any issues.

Hi Mike, Sent you an email - Cheers Craig

2 hours ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

At first, I thought maybe you were late for church... 

you are dressed nice enough.

 

That first camera angle 'appears rather subdued', then I just watched this one!

She has nerves of steel 

 

 

We invested in a nice set of Sparco seats, they make the wildest ride look like the drive to church!

33 minutes ago, Dabliz02 said:

This is true love in a nut shell.

 

And do I spy I pen and calculations going on?!?!?!?!?  Always need to improve on personal bests!!!  

She's actually reading pacenotes, here's the view out the front window.

and here's how Ken Block does this road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjFL1gilVrk

4 hours ago, wegweiser said:

 

And re: rally 2002s… There's more to rallying than just beating the poor ever-living shit out of your old car in the mud and forest, to prove how much you disrespect it's engineering and history.

I agree completely

For the OP, here's another data point.

Stock engine, stock manifold and down pipes with 2" exhaust

318 inlet manifold and throttle body.

Link ECU

Graph shows Flywheel power divide by 1.09 to get axle HP

29 minutes ago, LeeJohn said:

Wow the torque!  Is that due to the diff?  Is your top speed like 70mph lol

Note that the scale is in Nm not ft.lb, overall torque is similar to yours  (131 ft.lb)

Actually theoretical top speed in 5th @ 7000 rpm is still 122 mph, I've seen at least 105 mph in a stage, I say "at least" because the next run through the stage was faster but I didn't dare take my eye's off the road.

I'd like to go to a 4.9 or 5.1 which would bring the overall ratio of 5th down to where 4th is at the moment,  as we don't ever use 5th in a stage

here's mine - power at wheels

304° Cam

9.5 pistons

318 inlet manifold with 325 throttle body

Air filter forward of battery position

1 1/2" to 2.5" 4 into 1 header, 33" primary length   (RHD so I had to make my own)

Link ECU

Modified e30 dizzy, no advance as it's all done by the ECU

4.55 LSD diff,

Thanks for the input,  I've decided to go with EBC yellowstuff this time around, some of the other guys in my club talked them up.  I'll look into Performance friction if they  don't measure up.

Discs are on order, FYI freight for  a pair of E21 discs Portland to Auckland NZ is NZ$120 to compare E30 rear discs are NZ$ 120 /pr from Repco

Blues are probably too temperature sensitive for rallying- they need to stay hot, 

but can't overheat.

 

t

Interesting...  The promo for the blues suggested rallying as a good application 

Ht10 are pretty gentile on rotors. Can't you get rotors shipped in to you from overseas? At that price I would imaging you could get them cheaper.

Yes the plan is to buy them from the US, shipping costs are a bitch and they end up about $100 each with about a 3 week lead time.

Hi,

I'm looking for pad recommendations for my rally car.  Initially I was was running a street pad, not sure what make as they came with the calipers. Recently I changed to Hawk Blue pads based on the information from Hawk which recommended that compound as having good cold performance.

In terms of stopping the car, I've no complaints they do exactly what the side of the box says but..  I was not prepared for the amount of disc wear - what are these things made of? Carborundum ?  I've destroyed a set of front rotors in less than 100 km of special stages.

Normally that wouldn't be too much of a problem, discs are cheap - right?. Well no, the local distributor for after market brakes in New Zealand has stopped supporting the E21 and sold all his stock to a another company which has put the price up to $200 per disc.

So I'm looking for a pad that has good cold performance, we generally start the stage cold and they need to work 100% at the first corner, can take more heat and has a bit more bite than a stock pad.  But also be a bit kinder on the discs

We don't do the very hard braking that track cars do, the surface tends to be the limiting factor for braking potential. 

So I'm looking at either Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellowstuff as possible pad materials.  Any reason why I should choose one over the other or is there something else I should be looking at.?

Fronts are E21 Discs / Volvo calipers, rears are E30 325 discs and calipers

Cheers

Craig

So the numbers are in.....

After another dyno tune, 117 Hp at the wheels compared to 105 Hp before the new exhaust

So it's been a while since I originally asked the question,

I built a set of headers for the car, for those that are interested it is a 4 into 1 with 1.5" equal length primaries  33" long into a 2.5" tail pipe.

It's a PITA to fit, I have to remove the steering column and steering box, however the car instantly went much better, particularly above  5000 rpm with the power continuing until we hit the rev limiter at 7500.

I haven't had it back on the dyno, there didn't seem much point as it went so well. We did however take 30 seconds off our stage time at one event.  Enough to go from an "also ran" to 2nd in class at that event and overall class winner for this years series.

Thanks for every bodies advice.

I just meet a guy who was at the event - he gave me this awesome photo

I had the same whistling noise from my 325 throttle and solved it the same way. Except I used silicone to smooth off the inside on the assumption that the engine could probably digest silicone without too much damage.

Hey he's only about an hour from where I live,  I wonder if I could talk his price down for cash & carry.......

I never expected to see something like that for sale in New Zealand.

One of the guys in my club runs a Hyabusa in a Toyota KP61 Starlet.  Now a Starlet is lighter than a 2002 by about 200kg but I suspect that the difference may be less once you take the engine & transmissions out of both cars.

Here's a link to Kevin in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqHqvPtOD8s

It certainly was a fun day, I'm still buzzing about it nearly a week later.

For the record we ended up 4th in Class. Ahead of the 1st (Jonesy), 2nd (Harvey) and 4th (Mike) cars in the "Escorts" clip.

Harvey & Mike we beat fair and square, which was very satisfying  as they both run modern engines ( Harvey - F20C, Mike - Duratech) with around 250 Hp.

The only reason we finished ahead of Jonesy (who also runs a F20C) is that he went backwards into a fence post and DNF'ed.

The cars the beat us were  Craig in the other Escort (also Duratech powered), a Honda  Integra & a Nissan Pulsar.

I've been competing in a local rallysprint series, some one was kind enough to take some video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeSDHGTedwE&list=UU70ha7IYPIazQYRdpxrE59g

Here's the in-car footage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tX3jt12iic

and here is the competition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hmo2dW2GEXk

I'll see your near miss, and raise you this one.

The right hand corner had been progressively  cut up during the day.  The 4WD cars in particular were dragging soft wet clay out in to the center of the road.  The front just let go as I reapplied power exiting the corner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16CsbwSKY8E

I was already wondering if we were going to go end over end when we hit the bottom.