tomorrowcalling

Pukekohe, New Zealand.

At least I'm south of the Bombay hills, so I'm not an Aucklander!

I'm always a day ahead of most the posters here - hence the user name.

The workshop I go to deals with a shop in Brisbane called B.H.S.S.

They are an engineering outfit so should be able to take care of it.

Thanks for that, as it happens I have a brother in law in Brisbane & my father in law is off to see him this weekend. He may well have a steering box in his luggage

Does anyone know a source of rebuild RHD steering boxes or someone that can rebuild them?. It would be nice if said company was in New Zealand but I'd also deal with an Aussie if I had to ;-).

(nt)

No they're not in the same positions, to put an E30 subframe in 2002. the pins need to be 40mm wider apart and 30mm further forward.

see also http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/

Initially I'm thinking about a blend - E10 has just become available, but looking into my crystal ball suggests if I want to go on racing a classic car I better find something else to run it on - so 100% alcohol.

Now I'm not talking next year or even the year after but there may come a time when it will be seen as anti social to be burning fossil fuels to have fun. (much like it's become anti social to smoke in public places).

Now I'm certain that you can race an electric or hybrid but then it won't be a 2002!

Has anybody run an M10 engine on alcohol?. The government here in New Zealand has just released it's energy / emissions strategy and while it wasn't actually stated as such, I can see the writing on the wall. In the foreseeable future, if I want to go racing - I won't be filling up with petroleum.

Also locally, Motorsport New Zealand has started banning the use of Avgas for some classes , it will probably be banned outright in a year or so. They've also started mandating the use of alcohol blended fuels for some classes.

So the time for me to start researching the issue is now, long before the next engine rebuild.

I removed the heater by plugging the hose that runs to the heater and replacing the fitting at the back of the head with a plug. I don't know if is the "right" way of doing it but I don't have an over heating problem.

Also in a recent rally we hit so hard going over a jump that we loosened the alternator on it's bracket. When we came out of the next stage the belt was so loose there was about 2" of play and it squealed constantly - but the car was not overheating badly (getting warm - yes about 3/4 gauge).

So thermostat ?

Hey DB - just so you're sure, this is a modified RHD pedal box - normally the clutch and brake master cylinder face the other way and sit in the engine bay. Check out the real oem link at the top of this thread.

Nice work by the way - have you got this pedal box up and running and are you happy with the results?

BTW - as the man said Ms Biscuit, pedals don't have to sit in a box to be a pedal box.

Yes it's all up and running, it took me a couple of goes to get the pedal lever ratios & master cylinder sizes right, as I don't use boosters everything needed to be spot on.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably approach it the same way however some of the detail would change.

Thats an interesting setup. Did you modify it so you can have a brake bias control, or to create some more room in the engine bay?

.

Basically to have brake bias control, but getting the master cylinders away from the exhaust seemed like a good idea as well.

The downside is - it's a real pain to swap out master cylinders and you always spill some brake fluid in the interior when you're working on them. This takes all the paint off the floor - ask me how I know.

Certainly

Ok but I would also call this a pedal box (mines a little modified from stock)

I think we're a actually having a disagreement over definitions. The end result is - you'd need this assembly to convert to RHD.

Although it doesn't really answer the question - why?

There is no pedal box for RHD's.

Having never seen a LHD car I'm not sure of your definition of "pedal box". But the RHD cars definitely have a bracket assembly which holds all the pedals and the clutch & brake master cylinders. But you do have to remove the steering column to remove the whole lot as an assembly.

see

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2553&mospid=47129&btnr=35_0202&hg=35&fg=05

Just for the record we finished 21st out of 51 starters.

We had to do the last 2 stages on three shocks after the jump at Mystery Creek did this to our left rear one.

It's not too bad on tarmac, the set of tarmac tires I currently have aren't that flash so a set of semi slicks would improve things a lot.

I'm not a big fan of tarmac events because if you're going off it's always a big one so the car is basically set up gravel and I just live with it in the tarmac bits.

As an aside - stage 11 tomorrow has about 1.5 km of tarmac in the middle of the stage, however by the time I get there the WRC guys will have dragged enough gravel off the side of the road into the center such that I'll have to treat it as a gravel section.

For the WRC pros the road consists of all the area between the fences.

Yes it runs quite high but my sump guard still has huge grooves in it.

Yes I did correct the camber,

On Saturday (Leg 2) the Possum Bourne Memorial rally will follow directly after the WRC entrants.

Car 162 (yes - we're seed last) is Stu & I in "Inky" Probably the only BMW to take part (if you stretch the definition a bit) in a WRC round this year.

See

http://www.pbmrally.co.nz/

http://www.rallynz.org.nz/

For those of you who don't know who Possum Bourne was

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Possum_Bourne

You could always try the hot spanner (aka Oxy- Actylene torch) For me it's always worked - but only as the very last resort .

Car #18 in this years rally was a blue 2002, If the owner is a FAQer it would be nice to compare notes.

Does anyone have recommendations for the size of the hoses to run between a remote filter, oil cooler and block. My initial thought was 3/8" ID (-6AN) but on reflection that may be a little small.

I can't say I'd be happy with using 30+ year old belts. If you're going racing then you have to change your belts every 2 years (SFI 16.1 spec) or 5 years (FIA spec) because the webbing is deemed to be too degraded to be safe after that period. Admittedly your much more likely to "use" your belts in a race car but........

I brought a long block kit off them, very happy with the service.

From the rallysprint last weekend

Photo credit - Rick O'Neil Photography

I had a similar issue. The car intermittently wouldn't start when hot.

Turned out that as the motor was cranked, the block potential would rise to about 5V due to a few ohms resistance in the earthing strap.

This would then cause the temperature sensor to indicate to the ECU that the engine was way over temperature.

I'm not sure if the ECU was refusing to start the car as a safety measure or if was just pushed it into a fuel / ignition map zone that was too far off for the engine to fire.

Caused me grief until it did it at a time when I had the ECU programmer available to diagnose the problem.

Here's a few more pictures that may be useful, You may not need as much wheel travel as I was after so may not have to get as aggressive with the cutting disk.