brendang2000

Here they are on my megasquirt 2.0 M10 test engine.

Hi all,

Got a pair of BMW side draft manifolds for unknown carbs (came without carbs with a 914 my friend bought).  The measurements between the carb mounting studs are 110mm & 70mm, and it's approximately 72-73mm between runner studs.  $150 plus shipping, which would most likely be a USPS flat rate box, local pickup in Phoenix, paypal prefered if shipping. 

Brendan

Hello all,

I'm looking for the pump/sender that drops into our fuel tank.  I just got back from all the good local yards and the one car that worked someone grabbed the pump/sender already.  I have a new pump already, so really just need the sender, but would take both if you have them.  Let me know what you were thinking about price.  PM or email would be best.  brendang2000@gmail  Thanks, Brendan

On 6/5/2018 at 2:10 AM, Simeon said:

Not sure why people are putting the failure of their Pertronix down to MSD use. The voltage that the Pertronix sees when operating in that mode is far lower than the voltages seen across it when switching a normal coil.

 

If you use points to switch an MSD or other capacitor discharge ignition they can last so long (compared to normal operation) that they wear out the rubbing block on the distributor cam before the contacts fail. 

I can attest to this, my MSD has been driven by stock BMW points since I put it in years ago.  Granted I bought a new set of points when installed though.

Nice!  I mounted a used 6AL I had laying around in my trunk because I didn't want to look at it (battery is in trunk too).  It's been going 10k+ miles.

Thanks guys, I kind of figured on the 2x reading to get actual advance.  Would that mean even with timing tape, it would still display double? 

On 10/30/2017 at 6:05 PM, jimk said:

Set your map to read 0 deg (or if MS allows to lock timing lock at 0deg) and check the TDC on the flywheel.  Haltech allows a lock to any degree you want.

Jimk, I’m not following you on how to check advance this way.  Am I missing something?  Thanks guys!  Brendan

Sorry, I have a noob megasquirt/EDIS question about timing and can’t seem to find any info through searching; if you know of a link, please let me know.  I’m getting my MSII/V3.0 engine mocked up with a 02Again 36-1 wheel, and can’t see how you guys are checking timing.  I’ve marked the tooth that relates to TDC (see picture), but how are you checking advance?  It’s my understanding that a dial-back timing light will not work with an EDIS setup due to the wasted spark.  From http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm, “Note that most timing lights that let you set the timing with a dial and read the alignment of fixed TDC marks with the strobe will not work with EDIS. This is because these timing lights use the time between sparks to compute the engine speed and advance, but the EDIS wasted spark is giving sparks twice as often as the timing light expects for a given rpm. If you have a 'dial back' timing light, set the dial to zero and use a degreed damper or timing tape to view the advance.” Have you made a timing tab to read off of the original timing point?  I’m contemplating machining a wheel that mounts to the front of the 02Again pulley that I would put a strip of MSD timing tape on.  I’d love to see some pictures of what you guys running the 36-1 wheel have come up with.  Thanks!  Brendan

LOl, no thanks on the nose, this took me a year and a half:)

The trunk does open, no hinge and no trunk floor.  Both doable, but moving on to other projects, like the M10 megasquirt engine sitting in my living room (soldered the board up 3/15 lol).

It is a shame about those lights.  What's even worse I had a new set I bought for my car years ago, then gave them away when I went with the bumper lights instead.  It goes to show you, NEVER GET RID OF ANYTHING! lol

Thanks y'all! 

It definitely does need some kind of plate.

The donor car was a trashed ex-racer, every panel was mostly destroyed.  That back panel needed minimal work though, otherwise I might not have done this.

I’ve not seen that picture before, but have seen stuff like that.  My friend has a Shelby Cobra ass-end as a seat, it’s rather large.

Finally got my art project done and hung, still waiting for the license plate lights to become available again.  I think it came out really well.  Also thinking of making some of the lights work, but I don't have the reflectors so would need to make up some kind of divider or all the areas would light up.  The air cleaner I had done for a while now, but finally took a picture.

Hi all,

I need to find a license plate light, part number 63 26 8 777 102 see picture.  It doesn't matter the condition as long as the mounting holes are good.  I need it to locate the holes in the back panel as it has been drilled many times.  I'm in Phoenix, AZ and you can reach me @ brendang2000@gmail.com  Thanks!  Brendan

Some of this stuff is listed in an old post, please disregard that post.  I'm heading to SoCal the first week of May and can bring out any of the heavy items if you're in that area.  Prices do not include shipping, but willing to work with you.  Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.  Call/text, email or PM, I take offers in chronological order.  623.521.6006 brendang2000@gmail.com  Thanks

E24 seats $250 SOLD

vent tubes $20 SOLD

Repa seat belts from a '76 $20 SOLD

Window regulator left, the old looking one $30 SOLD

Diff bracket w/stock bushings $25

Mahle charcoal canister w/bracket, used once to go through emissions:) Part number 16121108926 $75

NOS Bump steer spacers 1" $45

Powder coated steering arms (would need to remove coating from ball-joint & mounting area to use, ask before buying) $30 SOLD

ash tray center section with green blockoff plug $20 SOLD

seat-belt/ thermal reactor indicator $10

ball-joints $20 pair SOLD

NOS BMW tranny mount $10 SOLD

pedal box, no gas pedal $40 SOLD

dark blue arm rests, no metal trim covers, right plastic mount broken $15

headlight buckets w/bulb trim rings, one side has been powder coated but missing hardware $30 pair

left mirror, some pitting, new gasket & mounting bracket (both pictures are item) $25 SOLD

E30 M10 oilpan and tranny cover (hot tanked, super clean) $100

strut rods $20 pair

brake booster brackets, booster does not hold vacuum $25 SOLD

half shafts/axles off a '70 $100 SOLD

hubs $30 each or $50 for a pair

newer but used control arm, some scraping on inboard side. $15 SOLD

calipers $50 pair

'70 trailing arms, $50 each SOLD

'70 strut housing, $40 each SOLD

painted open rear diff (I think it's a 3.70, can open up if interested) $150

E30 M10 power steering pump w/brackets $40

6 minutes ago, jplips said:

Hi, interested in the NOS front glass track seal $10, NOS front right engine mount $20 and NOS grill reflectors $10 pair if still available.

 

Thank you

 

JP

Hi JP. Still available, could you please email me? Thanks, Brendan

ITEMS LISTED UNDER NEWER POST

Hi all. I'm sick of moving parts from house to house, time to let them go.  I didn't add shipping to the prices, but if it's cheap enough I'll include it.  I have a bunch more still needing to add, open diff, axles, hubs, control & trailing arms, etc. Thanks!!!

NOS rear window seal $65 SOLD

NOS front glass track seal $10 for the pair SOLD

NOS front right engine mount $20 SOLD

NOS 320 recaro trim $40 for the pair SOLD

NOS grill reflectors $10 pair SOLD

vent tubes $20

Weber 38/38 didn't work well on my engine no matter what jets (bad?) $45 SOLD

Repa seat belts from a '76 $20

Window regulator left, the old looking one $30 RIGHT SOLD

Diff bracket w/stock bushings $25

Mahle charcoal canister w/bracket, used once to go through emissions:) Part number 16121108926 $75

Have a set of E24 seats that I'm never going to get around to installing.  Armrest is tan and pretty dirty (I think you have to cut the armrest down to fit though?), seats are in good to great shape, some scrapes and black missing especially at the front bottom.  I have not cut these to fit yet.  If you would like more pictures, call, text or email.  I'm in Phoenix, 85023 but do head out to SoCal a lot and could possibly bring them out.  If you want them shipped, I'll have to get a quote.  Thanks! Brendan

brendang2000@gmail, 6235216006

I wondered where they were sourcing these myself.

It must have been Jeremy that helped me last time, because if I remember correctly, the new hub was shipped extra quick.

I'd contact them, but I bought this brake kit probably 2 or more years ago. You know how it goes, buy all the parts you need while restoring a car, then years later you can install them. Might just be best to have the ones I have turned, or leave them on the shelf in case the 320 ones ever go bad.

Holy hell- I just re- read, and hadn't twigged that the runout was at the HUB!  That's miserable.  I'm surprised the rotor didn't catch the caliper support!

 

What was the source of the hub?

 

And:

 

a quick spin on the lathe would clean that right up.

 

t

By souce of the hub, do you mean where I got them?  If that's the case, they were new IE hubs.  Saddly I even had to return one prior to fitting it to the car as one of the lug stud holes must have been tapped crooked.  With all studs installed the rotor hat would not fit over the studs.  Yep yep, going to have the IE hubs turned eventually, but with the used 320 hubs working, it's a project on the back burner:)

Got the used OEM 320 hubs installed today.  Zero run out on one hub and at worst, .001" on the other.  Still have a bit of run out with the rotors installed, .003" and .002", but I never had them turned.  But for the important part, no more wheel shake and the steering wheel is not making my hands numb while braking:)

yup.  too much runout.  i had same issue with the install.  turned the rotors, it helped a little.  eventually got new rotors. fixed. 

 

you have checked wheel bearing play right?  it needs to be readjusted after a hundred miles or so after putting new bearings in.

Yea, I've checked bearings a few times as they did loosen up on me before.  It's got to be that one hub, the left has .003" run out and the left is .011", way out of spec by a NAPA video I saw after watching yours; NAPA states most OEM as .002" or less.

Steve, tires are new and rims were checked to be true.

Also, while watching that NAPA video they used hub correction plates to correct the run out.  They come in .003" & .006" thicknesses.  Never knew these things existed.  Should help for the one side but got to swap out the right one.  Thanks guys!!

Hello all!!

Ever since I've added IE's Wilwood brake kit on the front I've had wheel shake, it's worse while hitting the brakes.  The car has 5k miles on it since restore and everything is new (which makes finding the culprit harder).  I've changed tires and made sure rims were true, so now I'm moving onto rotors and the 320 hubs.  I checked run out on the rotors and was getting a few thousands, don't remember the exact amount, and wanted to check the hubs before I had these new rotors turned.  Does anybody have the spec on 320 hub run out? I can't find much info on this subject, but I'm guessing that the .011"-.012" that I'm getting on the hub could be the cause, video attached (I hope!).  Bearings are "just loose", front suspension is tight, I think I'm checking the run out correctly.  Anything I'm missing, doing wrong?  As always, thanks!!!

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IMG_1166.MOV

You are using the correct measurements for the plastic float correct? The brass float has different measurements for height. I cant speak on your float, I only have experience with the brass ones...

Yea, correct for the plastic.  Forget to mention, both floats are plastic but the red circuled area in my old one is flat.

I wanted to mention in this thread since I was following it to help me solve my lean off-idle stumble, that make sure you check your float level, even on new carbs!! I did all the adjustments to jetting and e-tubes but still had the stumble.  I checked my float and it was set high, this was a new carb! I set to spec and the stumble went away.

After noticing my old 38/38 was pulling gas through the aux venturi, a great friend of mine lent me his 38/38 that he was told was new and setup for a higher lift cam. Perfect timing as I was installing my new rebuilt block with +1mm bore, JE pistons and IE's 292 cam. First drive and I had a VERY noticeable lean stumble while shifting. Crap! I tried everything mentioned in the posts about fixing this lean stumble, jets & tubes, richer idle, etc, and nothing worked. Finally I figure I'd check the float, but why, it's a new carb right? My thinking was maybe the float was set to high, and gas was to low in the emulsion tubes. Sure enough, it was set to high! But the funny thing is, I could not get this float in spec, no matter how much I bent the tab. Then I thought I'd see if I could get my float set in this carb. I compared the two floats next to each other and there was a difference, picture is of the "new" float. In the picture, the red circled area is flat on my old float. This hump I believe is what is causing this float from being set correctly. Anyway, does anybody know if this is actually a float for a 38/38 or something else, because with my old “flat” float, I can get it in spec and sure as shit, my stumble is gone!!!

Any chance anybody has one of the MSD billet aluminium distributors they'd like to sell?  Let me know, brendang2000@gmail  Thanks!

That looks exactly like the kit I put in my E21 Recaros.  They work pretty good, but by no means as well as a seat with factory heaters, it's like there isn't as many heating elements as there should be.  That said, I still don't regret putting them in so I'd say go for it.