Grover

I'd say you are hovering right around the lowness of Clinton's pants right now. If you want to get to Herman Cain's level I'd say drop another inch or so or just keep going until your zipper gets stuck under the tire.

Nice work Steve. I saw you guys from afar but never stumbled across your pit. Some friends and I ran our first event in a green and tartan 81 280zx. We lost 2 1/2 hours on Saturday due to one teammate "missing" multiple black flags and then got booted as a result. Grr. Nonetheless had an awesome time and hoping to fair better at Infineon in March.

Thanks for the input guys. And thanks CD to for the tip on not even removing the spark plug, that makes good sense. As to the basic-ness of the operation, I'm sure you are right that it's pretty basic. However, as it's not something I've personally done before, just wanted to be sure I was clear on the procedure so I didn't zap myself, short something out, etc... Will see if I can get it fired up today, but it's just too darned cold out right now to get motivated. Wish I had a nice warm garage to work in:(

Thanks guys. The car is neither carb' nor a tii, rather it is my Franken02 which I just put ITB's onto. It could well be that I'm just not close enough on the MS tuning to get it to fire up, but since it has been off the road for a few months while I got all the mechanical bits installed I thought I'd start with the basics of air, fuel, and spark at least. I had my battery charged at the local Kragen a couple of weeks back, but its possible I'm just not getting quite enough power out of that too... Will need to keep chipping away until I find the culprit, then many hours of tuning to come.

I'm having trouble getting my car fired up after having it sit for the last few months. It's turning over, not but not catching. I want to double check the basics of fuel and spark being delivered. What is the easiest and safest way to confirm that I'm getting a spark? Can I just pull a spark plug and crank the key for a moment? Do I need to ground it somehow? Thanks in advance.

Email sent on the 5 alloy rims.

Make sure you consider clearance vs the brake booster if putting on an airbox like that with long velocity stacks.

I've got one too. Drop me an email at trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

Can you send me some photos of it open? Trichardson AT clifbar DOT com. Also the backing plate please. Thanks.

Mark. Drop me an email, I can help to tide you over for a few meals at least. trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

Okay, I completely get the "why do ITB's when the 318 manifold is easier." However, driving a 40 year old car is completely impractical in the first place, so why start being rational now? Just my two cents.

I need to bleed my brake system today but only have about 2/3 Qt of fluid. Is this enough to fully flush the whole system, including clutch? I'm using one of the Motiv bleeders which I think adds to the amount needed if I recall correctly. No place near by to pick up more ATE fluid on a Sunday....

I'll take some dog bowls if you still have any Armond.

I tried this a couple of years ago. I tried the honest approach and told them the previous owner installed them. They did nothing for me.

How are the dash pieces?

Have you verified personally that it has NO rust? Unless it is in a bone dry area, something about this claim in conjunction with the idea of sitting outside (covered) for 17 years seems incongruous. Keep us posted.

I have a one piece Warnerford manifold. $60 plus shipping. Trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

I believe there are three rivets which hold it place on the back side where the swing window pivots.

Steve, right now I'm planning to use the standard Bosch 3bar fuel pressure regulator.

Cool. Thanks. Feel free to email me offline: trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

Thanks guys. As mentioned, lots of work ahead but I'll do my best to document it so that others may be able to learn from my trials and tribulations. Beast02er, I am indeed familiar with the 77e21 guy and his build write up has certainly helped me. The 1/2 aluminum "log" just next to the head is a common vacuum tube that will collect and feed the vacuum signal to the MSII unit. Each manifold port has a vacuum port put into it, and then I have a feed tube to the ECU dropping out of the log between cylinders 2 and 3. At the rear end of the log as in inlet for my E21-style cold start valve. The thinner metal tube mounted on top of the ITBs themselves is also a vacuum port but this is just providing vacuum to the fuel regulator. From everything I've read, these small combined ports are not really good enough to provide a steady signal to the ECU, hence the aformentioned common log.

And Beast02er, I'd at least be interested to see photos of the airboxes you are putting together. My hope right now is to build one that looks a lot like the old Alpina style ones since I'd like it to maintain some period appearance to it. That said, I'm also thinking an S14 box may be able to fit in there. I have a decent bit of clearance vs. the brake booster since I tilted the ITBs upward by a few degrees by having a local machinist cut out a triangular "wedge" from the manifolds to tilt everything upward; he then re-welded and bored them so it's nice and smooth and there's a very clear shot to the intake valves all the way from the airhorns.

I've still got a couple of days worth of work dealing with wiring, fuel lines, brake bleeding, etc... but today I finally mounted the ITBs to the motor for real. This has been several months in the making; collecting parts, fabricating parts, researching, etc.... I have been running for the last three years an S14 block and lower end, mated to a spruced up E12 head in conjunction with EFI via the old 318 intake and 325 TB, and running MSII and EDIS. The long term goal was always to go to ITBs but I just didn't have the time or money to bite it off. Now that the 02 is no longer my daily driver, the time felt right, and here I am with many hours of EFI tuning ahead of me. An airbox is also in the plans but haven't fully decided on the design yet. As you can see from the photos I'm running pretty long velocity stacks, about 5 inches, and they are split between the stubby air horns and the straight extensions. Where these two pieces mate is where the airbox will ultimately connect and enclose the little TWM air horns.

As I said, lots of work ahead, but am hoping to turn the key for the key for the first time in the next week or ten days, life and work schedule permitting. Woo hoo!!!

So I'm mounting up some ITBs and they bump into the dipstick in a pretty big way. For those that have done similar installations, or perhaps with side drafts, how did you get clearance vs. the dipstick? Bend the tube? Shorten the stick and tube somehow? Is there a different stick which is shorter? Thanks in advance.

Last year when travelling with the family in San Diego we rented a Mazda 5. I wasn't impressed with interior material qualities (no nice soft touch plastics) but the practicality was honestly pretty awesome. Easily converted from 2-3 rows of seating, sliding doors on both side for great access, plenty of room yet didn't feel "big", half way decent motor and driving dynamics, and pretty darned cheap too. Haven't made up my mind on the newer body styling yet...

Inventory? What's that?