Grover

I just also tossed a couple of rebuildable later style (but still fully brass) heater control valves into the box. Come on guys, get this stuff out of my garage.

Hi guys and gals. I rebuilt a few heater boxes a couple of years back and still have a bunch of parts that i just don't see myself putting to use. As such, I'd like to box it up and sell it as a bundle to a handy DIYer who is interested in building up a box to replace the busted one you have in your car. As you can see from the photo, there are two cases (with a couple of repaired cracks), two heater cores (both professionally checked for leaks), various cables, and one early-style working fan. Would prefer to sell this stuff locally if at all possible since these parts are notoriously fragile, I'm in the SF Bay Area. Will ship if no local buyers are found. $75. Reply here or drop me an email. trichardson AT clifbar DOT com.

Okay. So if two wheels have the same offset (35) but one is 5.5" wide, and the other 6" wide, how will this effect clearance vs. the strut housing? Will the narrower wheels have .25" greater clearance both against the strut housing and versus the wheel arch?

When you say brake pedal I assume you are referring to the entire pedal box assembly. Is this correct? If so I'm interested. Do you have any additional photos you could forward me? Trichardson AT Clifbar DOT com.

I pulled this pump from a '90 318is with an M42 motor. This is a great pump for a MegaSquirt style EFI conversion as it has the built in return line. As you can see it will be included with the pig tail connectors for power and the fuel level gauge. Compared to the other pumps I've seen from similar model this one appears to be about 1/2" shorter, I honestly don't know why this is the case. The screen filter on the bottom has some mild abrasion, I've seen this on all the pumps I've ever pulled as it must make direct contact with the bottom of the fuel tank. $75 plus shipping or (even better) would trade for a good rebuildable manual pedal box that would work on a '73. Reply here.

I wish I could be of more help, but my EDIS tach is set up exactly like the MegaManual suggests and it has worked flawlessly from day one but under load and on decel. It has been 2 1/2 years since I installed it but I remember thinking the wire shielding was important. Again, wish I could be more helpful, but I'm at least one person who would indicate that the "stock" system can work fine.

Thanks for the input guys. As for the questions:

1. No, I've not tried starting the motor, I wasn't sure this was a great idea if there was obviously something no right with the fuel pump.

2. My old code was also 2.6 something and I'm now trying to go to 2.891. The new code will not even fully verify. It gets all the way through the "write" phase, but gets stuck partially through the "verify" phase and the download just stalls out. I'm going to pick up a brand new 9V battery as I wonder if the voltage is just a touch too low and allowing the load to reset. Can't think what else could be happening.

3. And yes, I am removing the boot jumper after the update attempts.

Keep the ideas coming, was really not expecting this to be such a PITA.

Doing the computer side of the MS install has always been my downfall. The mechanical side comes fairly easily, but setting up the software is just not my cup of tea..

I've been running MSII for the last 2 1/2 years and have never updated the code version. I've wanted to start using Tuner Studio instead of MegaTune, so decided this would be a good time to move to a more up-to-date code version. I loaded version 2.891 and everything seemed to go fine. However, when I turned the key to where I was getting 12V switched (not cranking) the fuel pump would continually cycled on and off (whereas it normally would just prime for a second or so and then shut off.) Someone on the MS forum suggested that for codes 2.8 and above I'd need to create a new MSQ from scratch, something I really didn't want to have to do. So, I tried to revert back to an older software version but I keep getting faults as I try to upload it, saying that it gets a record block during verification. Now I'm stuck with a fuel pump that cycles improperly and only partially loaded software. What the hell should I try next? I'm thoroughly confused and frustrated.

BTCC is great racing!! Who is switching over?

Nice shirt. For $28 though, shipping better darned well be "free"

Hey JimK. I don't know a huge amount about the Electromotive units, but have heard good things about them, may be interested in yours especially since I'm guessing you could help push me in the right direction. Would you mind dropping me an email and we can discuss if it might be a good approach for me to take? trichardson AT clifbar DOT com. Thanks. Tom

It has been long enough ago that I don't remember exactly, but... Are you sure the new one isn't intended to be the gasket between the window and the frame, rather than around the glass itself?

thanks for all the help guys. Geez, I love the FAQ, it is just such an amazing tool. I was able to get the throttle plates better aligned thanks to Lorin's input and also made some adjustments to the idle bypass screws. However, idle is still on the high side, now sitting at about 1250rmp at 45kpa. For those familiar, do you recall what your MAP usually is at idle? It's been so long since I tuned my car last I can't recall exactly, but seem to remember kpa being down closer to 25 or so???

I'm hoping to get it decently tuned and then have an expert dial it in from there. Should be fun...

Thanks Lorin, that is what I'm suspecting just from a visual inspection. So how do I adjust them?

Thanks Jim, I was hoping you'd weigh in. Honestly I've never messed with Webers, so haven't balanced airflow as you suggest before. What tool does this require? Is this done solely with the copper adjuster screws or are the butterflies themselves "tweaked" so they all line up perfectly? Thanks.

Thanks guys, the parts have been sold to Bluedevil. As for why I took it off, I've subsequently put on ITBs. The 318 set-up is really good, I was just ready for a new challenge and some raspy sounds coming from those ITBs!!!

Hey folks. Today was a big day for me, I finally got my car running with the TWM ITBs installed (using Mesasquirt as I did with the 318 manifold for a few years.) Tons of tuning ahead of me, but.... Quick questions. I'm having trouble getting the idle and MAP down below about 50kpa at 1300rpm. The throttle stop is all the way backed out, and I don't THINK I have any vacuum leaks. However, when I look in at the butterflies they seem to have very slightly varying amounts of gap around the edge where it mates to the walls of the TB. For example, port 2 seems to be snug all the way around, whereas port 1 seems to have a very slight gap on the bottom side of the butterfly, and I wonder if this is allowing additional air in, keeping me from getting the idle down. So, two questions:

1. On TWM ITBs is there a way to individually adjust these butterflies (I bought them used, so no instructions.)

2. There are small brass adjuster screws for each port just next to the injector. Each one tapers to a small needle at the end, but I'm unclear on the function of these.

Any help? Thanks in advance, can't wait to get these all dialed in (and yes, I know, it is going to be a long road...)

Thanks for the interest guys. the inner diameter of TB on the inlet side is approx 64mm.

Al, I'll drop you a note.

Zinertia, not to steer you away from the Haltech unit (I've heard very good things about their ECU's) but I'd personally encourage you to also consider electronic ignition as this gives you much better tuning ability that just a distributor. Obviously it's not a "must have" but it will allow you to better extract the full benefits of the EFI system. Regardless of which path you chose, just do lots of research and think about what you want the system to ultimately provide you with. Best of luck.

The above aside, the parts are still available, so please reply here or email me if you are a definite buyer. Thanks again.

Can that Haltech model control spark as well as fuel, or is it just the latter?

If tuned well you can simultaneously get improved drivability, fuel consumption, as well as performance. With programmable EFI it's possible to control so many aspects of engine operation vs a carburetor with a stock distributor for ignition. To be clear it's not a project that can be done in an afternoon, but if you have the will and some patience, it's a pretty rewarding project.

That's correct Zinertia. I may still have the fuel rail also which I can include. If I recall one of the mounting tabs was broken but I'd guess this could be easily fixed or worked around. You'll also need things like sensors (air temp, coolant temp, oxygen, etc...) so what I'm selling are some of the bigger mechanical components to the system, but certainly not everything you need for an EFI swap.

I have for sale a pretty much complete intake system ready to go for the simplest of Megasquirt conversions. Included is the 318 intake with the injector ports in the correct place, a 325i Throttle Body, the 02Again adapter plate for the TB, rubber elbow to run to the cold air intake, a varbiable Bosch TPS (you'll need to get the pigtail and connector, mine got damaged), the Bosch E21 cold start valve I used very successfully (doesn't need to tap into the MS ECU), a custom throttle cable bracket and 325 cable, and any other odds and ends you might spot in the photo. N0t sure exactly how to price this, so let's say $175obo. Reply here or email me at trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

I will absolutely take it if Mojojoy hasn't beaten me to it. Trichardson AT clifbar DOT com

Agreed on the British Touring cars. They usually show the races during our winter to fill the void that Formula One and NASCAR leave. I just saw the first race of the year a couple of weeks back. Set your TIVO/DVR now and you'll catch most of the season, DTM also if you're into that.

This is SOT because it's not related to my 02, rather our Lemons racer 280ZX. But hopefully its just a useful tire question so nobody will get upset its in the General Discussion forum??...

The spec tires on the car are balloons: 195-70-14's. However, for the race we want to run either Falken Azenis 615's or Dunlop Star Spec's as they seem to be the best tires in the acceptable wear rating. However, my preference has been to get some stock ZX 15" rims, but the only of the above tires that are 15's will give me a diameter of just over 23", which is quite a bit less than the stock tire diameter of 24.74". What, if anything, is the significant impact of reducing tire diameter like this? Is it a bad idea? And if so, why?

Thanks in advance.