boxy02

Pinepig, Thanks for the details...I'll likely tackle this after the Thankgiving weekend.

You really did a great job on your prep & paint!!

Cheers!

Pinepig,

I don't understand the bodywork and the nail thing. To fill in the trim holes, did you weld the nails into the holes? I'm at this point now in my track car project and I'm curious as to how you did this. Can you give details?

Your car looks great!

Thanks,

Mike

Make sure when you twist it that the bolt can't back out...that is to say, tension the bolt to its clockwise direction to keep it tight. Boy, that's hard to put into words! Hope I didn't confuse you. I'll shut up now....

You then use a feeler gauge to measure, file and re-measure the bore until you get it into the acceptable range.

actually, you don't remeasure the bore, you remeasure the GAP of the ring in the bore...making sure it is square in the bore each time.

Not trying to be an ass, but if you are planning on reassembling your motor this weekend and you don't know that fitting pistons/rings into a block requires a piston ring compressor...you might want to hold off until you at least read the procedures for motor reassembly. If your book of choice is vague on motor reassembly, you might want to purchase another more informative, step-by-step manual.

thanks,

I'v only got this far because other have documented their projects.

it's given me inspiration and ideas.....

I figure my site might just help out some other people crazy enough to ge into a car project.....

Well, Pedro, I'd say after spending ~2 hours on your site, I'm THOROUGHLY INSPIRED!! I know I can do all of my bodywork myself now. You've done a fantastic job on your race car! I'd love to see your car in person to mooch off of your details...

Cheers!

(nt)

(nt)

(nt)

(nt)

(nt)

I had one in my 2002 when I bought it. I tore it out about a week after I owned the car. (it's the HUGE chrome thing in the center console).

Pack racing has panasprot knock-offs, very light and good price, too.

http://www.packracingproducts.com/acatalog/14__Superlite_Wheesl.html

If you have all winter to do this...It should take you less than a day to install the new setup and probably the rest of the winter to understand this article (link) and tune them... 8^) FWIW, I'm doing this in the future as well (w/ a pair of Solex's).......still trying to understand the article.

http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm

I cut a plate out of ABS plastic that i riveted to the transmission tunnel. This had a rubber gasket along its inner diameter, where it met the shifter plate, to reduce vibration. It was just some generic rubber moulding I bought from PepBoys, but it held up very well.

I plan on doing this again when I put my transmission in.

Got any pictures you can post of your ABS fix?

I don't know much on these motors yet, but from my flat-6 experience, if you are at ~10:1 CR you need to run the highest octane pump gas that you find in your area (premium). If you're ~12:1 or higher you'll be running race gas only (100 octane, usually). The last thing you want to do is run regular (lowest octane gas) in a 10:1 motor. YMMV...(Your Mileage May Vary).

Good luck on your motor! I'm soaking up knowledge from your posts. Thanks for asking the questions and posting your concerns during your build, it helps us newbees to go forward with motor rebuild plans of our own!

Cheers,

Thanks guys for your feedback

Hey, that left front fender looks kinda familiar!! 8^)

hehe, both fenders are from you, I rattle canned one for looks How's your project coming along? Did you get the flares mounted?

I got the fronts mounted and I just got the car back in my garage...so the real work begins...the front and rear suspension is in but needs minor finishing. I gotta get my blog goin'...I've been taking pics when I think about it.

Congrats on the motor startup!!

Hey, that left front fender looks kinda familiar!! 8^)

It's lookin' good Bri!

Cheers

(nt)

I have the rear diff mount bushings, so yes I want to do those also. While I have this apart I want to get it all out of the way if it takes me until spring or I have to hire a professional. I really just want the car done right. i want that satisfaction that I didn't half ass the job.

That's the way I see it, too.

I removed the stock diff bushings and replaced with urethane. I placed the diff hanger in the vice and used a small triangular file to score the steel outer bushing ring to a nice "v", but not too much that I contacted the diff hanger bushing race. I used a medium drift to then bend up the tabs on either side of the "v" notch. This gives the bushing ring a conical shape to it. Then continue to use the drift and punch it out. Clean up the race and coat the new urethane bushing with "Triflow" lube. I used a flat piece of metal and an RSR shock collar to press in the new bushing. I used a size 36 hose clamp as bushing compressor to guide the thing into the race of the diff hanger, tightening and releasing until it "popped" in. Then took off the hosae clamp and continued to press it in toward the RSR shock collar until it seated. Took 20 minutes each to remove and install.

You can totally do this yourself!! Have fun!

go to:

texaschainsawmassacre.com and lose ALOT of weight...FAST!!

Amen to that!

I'm telling you, Liquid wrench and a press...they pop right out!

So, are you upgrading your diff hanger bushings? That's a whole different ball game...both removal and installation! Oh what fun! 8^)

Esty, Here's the Pelican Parts 2002 parts catalog page

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ppexpress/BMW_express.cgi?&command=category&YEAR=1974&MAKE=BM&MODEL=2002--001&Model_Desc=2002&Make_Name=BMW

They have lots of pictures so you can compare to what you need.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2213&mospid=47140&btnr=32_0969&hg=32&fg=05

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=2213&mospid=47140&hg=31&fg=05

copy & paste this link, it should give you the tie rod terminology....and from there you can explore and eventually find all what you need. FWIW, I bought most of my parts from Ireland Engineering and Pelican Parts (BMW section). Good luck.

I agree with the rest...replace your center track rod & tie rods as well as your ball joints, idler bushings, motor mounts, hub bearings and complete bushings. If you don't do it all, the weakest link will soon be surfacing, and soon after that you'll hear yourself asking, "Now why didn't I replace that while I had this all apart?"

I just did all of this myself, recently. If you have questions I'd share my experiences with you...(this is my first venture into the world of BMW).

Yes thats what it is.

I remember because I payed $2600 for the car (Cali-76) and twice that on the engine.

I did end up shipping them connected together.

It came out really nice and so far I'm very pleased with the detail work and turnaround (around 4 months).

They gave me a rough estimate that if I use synthetic I could expect about 350k miles out of the engine and it could be rebuilt again in the future if nothing goes too awry.

As far as the cam I believe it uses the stock for daily drivability. But I'm sure you could upgrade to suit your needs.

THANKS FOR THE INFO!!