TobyB

You aren't going to like my suggestion:
 
reinstall the original clutch hard line.
 
It's bigger than 1/4", and that flare, while not pretty, does seal it up pretty effectively.
 
You could try a bubble flare on your line- that would probably be easier on the grommet.
 
But those suckers are a lot tougher than I ever thought they'd be...
 
t

No, it's supposed to be dry inside the cover that hides the bump stop.   Or just oily enough to prevent rust...
 
t

In Washington state, if the VIN is registered to someone else, you need their help to get title to that vin.
The only people who can 'take' a car without the title are tow truck drivers (??!??!??) and even then,
there's a long (7 year?) wait.  Yes, I read a LOT of RCW to dig this up...  Otherwise, there is no mechanism
to 'disposssess' someone of a car- even if they're dead (which was my problem).  Two different subagents agreed...
 
Now, if WA has no RECORD of the vin, there are ways to get it 'attached' to the car.  Usually a State Patrol
inspection and a bit of paperwork does it.  But the subagent will know about this.
 
As to stamping and welding, that's hard to do in a 'non- shady' fashion.
BMW, like all manufacturers, had their own stamps made for VIN stamping,
and duplicating those is harder than ordering up a set of number stamps...
 
hth
 
t

13  07119906437  FILLISTER HEAD SCREW - M6X55 0.02  4   $0.50
 
www.penskeparts.com  It won't let me hotlink, but the diagram you want is in 'steering'.
 
Their site is almost 100% accurate and absurdly useful...
 
t

yeah, 'Belleville washers' stuffed into the Google will get you a thicker version of what BMW used.
 
They work great.  I use them everywhere.  Even in the bathtub.
 
t

If you're going to the side, you're using m10's and probably 3 of them?  Modified stock motor mount?
 
8.8 is fine.  The mount will be the weak part.
 
t

You need to return oil BELOW the turbo bearings but ABOVE the oil level in the pan.
Otherwise, your turbo will ingest gobs of oil.  Apparently, the oil that comes out is
aerated something ferocious, and won't do anything but float on top of the oil in your pan.
 
You're right, it's a pain in the butt, and some do it with an electric scavenge pump because
THAT is easier than anything else.
 
On the B20, I returned it to the lowest corner of the timing chain case, and that works on the M10/M30 as well.
 
On the M20, yes, the top of the oil pan is probably about all you can do.  Or the very bottom of the block.
You have to be careful, though, as windage can plug it with predictable results.
 
Corky Bell wrote a great book on turbocharging- every time I didn't do what he said to do, I got to do it over again.
 
hth
 
t

If the nose is way in the air and the tail's on the ground,
 
you have them wrong way round!
 
t

Yep, the HF junk works fine.  You'll have to buy (or locate) some longer bolts to attach the engine to the stand, tho.

That would be a properly functioning radiator.  And now, a properly functioning thermostat.
 
You've got some hot water entering the top, air cools it on the way down,
and by the bottom, it's nice and cool.  Since it's nice and cool, the t- stat
only ingests a bit of it, and recirculates most of it to keep the coolant in the
engine at a toasty 180f or so.  The recirc hose on the t- stat should be too hot to touch, as should
the body of it.
 
If you heat- soak the engine, it will get hot at the bottom eventually- take off the fan, or block the air from getting into
the radiator and run it
a while.  But it takes a while. 
 
With the fan, naw, if it's an effective radiator, at idle that motor's not putting out that much heat.
 
If you want one of the best tools to reassure yourself, go get an infrared thermometer,
and start shooting things.  You'll find that it helps when you see how the fins of the
rad cool as you go down them.
 
t

Descriptive, isn't it?
 
t
 

Gaaaa- don't do it! 
 
If the head's bent enough to need a drift to get the rod out, you run a real risk of mushrooming the head of the rod,
which then kills the head, too.  Those rods are pretty soft.
Having spare blocks lying around, I've had some luck with bolting the head back
onto a block, then removing the rod.
 
When THAT doesn't work, see if you can grab onto the exposed end and twist.  One of the things that happens
is that the head gets distorted slightly around the bolt holes, and it clamps the rod.  A bit of a twist, and out it comes.
 
When THAT doesn't work, get that aluminum rod.  But make sure it's ALMOST as big as the rocker rod,
because if it's much smaller, it knocks out the center plug and then you start to get the aforementioned mushrooming.
 
But if you can avoid drifting (heh) it's always a good idea.  I've cut rods out of heads to avoid having to hit them
too hard on the ends...
 
Also, for reassembly, it's worth making a reamer out of an old rod (you cut a slot into it at an angle to form a cutting edge).
Then ream the holes so that the new rod slides more- or- less smoothly.  It usually takes out a tiny bit of metal around the
bolt holes, but it makes reassembly sooooo much easier it's not funny.  If you find yourself boring new rod holes
with this method, the cam probably won't turn, either.
 
Lotsa words, but I've messed this job up... more than once.
 
hth
 
t