dp

here's what you're looking for

they're quite pricey

pics?

#1: I never liked Stainless headers. Headers on '02s are prone to cracking anyway, then to add brittle stainless to the mix is just asking for trouble.

Theoretically true, frankly I think rusty old used headers can be pretty damn amzing-looking after inner/exterior JetHot coating, and then they'll last! Even better for new ones.

#2: The best headers out of the box for '02s are Supersprint. My friend Freddie dyno tested Stahl to Supersprint back to back on the dyno and the Supersprint's blew the Stahl uout of the water. Too bad they seem to be out of production.

Better how? HP at the top end of the torque curve? Mid-rpm range? Pulling away from the stump? The usual formula is larger-diameter, more HP at the peak of the rpm/torque curve

#3: If your M10 motor is not making 150hp or more then any headers are pointless over a good ported tii cast iron manifold. As tested by Korman in the early '80's. Printed in a Roundel article 25+ years ago!

True, at the top end of the rpm/torque curve where it can actually do something. For the small dia/low end not specifically demonstrated by RK in that article (as I recall) BUT its an easy inference that smaller dia header on stock engines won't do any more for low end power than a Tii or later model, plugged-egr port manifold.

Question: Anyone consistently wind their lil street 2 liter to 7000rpm ?

One million dollars

Seems to me that prices are going up, both for the cars themselves and for the parts.

Am I wrong?

Tell me what industry has not been effected by transportation; AKA fuel charges, and material cost increases. Have you seen how much an avacado costs lately.

Compare your water bill from the past two years if you live anywere but the great lakes region.

Its getting one step closer to having to pay for the air we breath so don't hold your breath that costs will go back down. No more are economies of scale in favor of the consumer.

Good Lord! Why not just drink the Kool-aid now, and in November vote for "change you can believe in"

PFFT!

You can get the calipers, rebuilt from Kragen for about 80 bucks each. I was going to convert to the first-year 320i calipers (single circuit) but decided to stick with the original pn since Kragen had them. They've been fine on my car since I redid the brakes 4 years ago at that time they were only about 45 bucks a pop.

Drove 'em for about a year, the lots of parked time in inclimate weather, then just hopped in and did a 1200 mile trip over 2 weeks. Fun.

If you really want to do them yourself, try Paul Del Grande in Campbell for the rebuild kits, or JC Whitney, or keep an eye on squeeBay.

Nice! Congrats, you are one of the very few with a 68 2002 still on the road. Hold on to it and restore it back to its original glory eventually

Delia, I know what you mean about the price guides. No shots fired at the messenger I was getting at the fact that the guides are wrong/out of date and that the prices are increasing now after years of sluggish price growth. 10k for a "show condition" 1600 is way off. In late 2006 a '69 non-sunroof, not even original but with nice paint and interior sold on eBay for $9600. A '68 1600 non-sunroof, mostly original, with a cheap re-spray and many $$ cosmetic issues sold for $9100 last month. That would be a mid-value car at best for NADA, which they say is only like $5-$6k. The demand is growing for the early cars and Tii's, every time a nice one is for sale they are going for well over guide from what I've been seeing. Eventually NADA will catch up.

I am not convinced that a high sale here and there indicates "the market" is "on the rise"

The BEST indicator that "the market" is up is when the people who discuss prices in these threads are the ones who are paying those higher prices...AND that MOST of us are paying those higher prices. Make sense?

NEW old stock from Germany 2020 EUROS !

gee, thats not "the right" color is it? ;-)

I use that laundry stuff called "Oxy-clean" on all white plastics (bottles, reservoirs, the little white knobs and stuff used for securing trim, etc)

mix it into HOT water and soak your parts, follow the directions on the container for mixing for heavily-soiled items. It works well, kinda effervesces and does a really surprising job on these old plastic bits.

f.w.i.w.

320i wheels . . .

Part number: AL15X613MM

If that 13mm is the offset.

I think that is correct, don't believe they made a 15" wheel for '02's, the original 15" Alpina 4-lug was a 320i wheel

The last one I saw on ebay had a buy it now of $3400 I think (it was NOS though, still way (way) too much for me. I noticed this last night - hopefully it doesn't turn out to be a pile of Sh*t. Once I get it I will want to have it looked at. Who here in the US can inspect (and repair) if necessary ZF steering boxes? This is one of the few performance parts that I have never owned. They seem to only rarely come up for sale any more.

Hey Mark, thats very tough part, good snag if it's a 177 ... and like Sherman pointed out theres some turns left on the adjustment so you may very well be fine! Some other comments:

1) I've never seen a used CR box that was worn out, I am SURE thats "just me" but the used ones I've come across werre always a part of a project car/cars that never saw much mileage.

2) "Red" or "Silver" never seen one that was like henna red, but like blunt (I think) pointed out they're often similar to some rustoleum-ish color. The last one I had out of a car was(is) a somewhat dingy, thin orange-ish brown. It'd never been adjusted, and wasn't really dirty, but the least pretty shade I've seen of them yet. Isn't it odd to use the word "pretty" about steering box paint. This was 4-5 years ago, I'd posted it to the 02 lists online, and then to eBay, but didn't meet reserve and lots of trash talk cause it wasn't "red". Now I'm glad it remains in MY reserve. They're rare as hen's teeth. The fellow selling the one you got did himself no favors with such a crummy listing, but like you I take the plunge on those kinds of listings from time to time and come up with gems!

I've some questions for you about A4 front timing case cover and linkages, can you reply back to me or (possibly) e-mail? There's no e-mail contact info for you on here.

Thanks!

"taking the piss" = extracting the michael, aka, taking the mickey - ie: are you serious?

You'd think you guys on that side of the pond could speak the Queens English by now! Great write up Michael - could have saved that bloke some broken glass!

It would have been a huge savings, what, 10 bucks and 30 seconds with a vaccuum?

I AM sure your method works though. I just see it as rather hack and typical '02-ite ...prying and pulling on your car to make something work...and damned the risk to other much more expensive parts. Does prying on the window with a lever fix wind noise problems too?

I'd apologize for not knowing what your piss remark meant, but to heck with the queen's english you're an expatriate in france anyways! Does she really talk that way?

Besides, we may yet have our OWN queen here soon enough, bless 'er 'eart!

My house was broken into earlier this week and all keys to my '73 tii were stolen. The car is in the garage with everything locked except the trunk. Is it possible to get new keys from Max/Mobile Tradition or someone else with the VIN#? I will eventually change all of the locks but for now I just want to get in and drive! TIA...COOP

1) get a replacement wing window lined up

2) get a glass-cutter and score a deep circle into the wing window you'll replace (sorry, but it has to be done) tap out the circle and with care you'll minimize glass-shatter-scatter

3) remove your door handle and take it to a locksmith, theres a number stamped into the inside portion of the handle which provides the keycode for your locksmith. Take both handles down if you want to be doubly sure the key you have made will work. Try it in both handles. This will match your ignition switch key.

4) remove the rear trunk cylinder and take IT to the locksmith also, I don't think there was ever a number stamped on that one, but they can cut a key to fit the tumblers in it.

hope this helps...

You are taking the piss right? Apart from what Dubois said you can prise off the chrome trim across the top of the door and put a coat hanger down there and pull up the horizontal bar that operates the lock - open in 60 seconds, or something like that! No broken glass required.

"Taking the piss" ? Perhaps your comment is just lost in translation ??

What dubois said: run a wire down from the top of the window and try to latch the door handle? Why not just say "ruin the weatherstrip by jamming something in there" Ask me how I know this.

What you said: Pry off the chrome strip and stick a wire in there. OK, that might work, although the mechanism inside functions in the reverse of almost all other vehicles, meaning it cannot be pulled or pushed in the same fashion as most other vehicles. Besides, you would still be at risk of damaging the trim moulding or paint. Ask me how I know this as well.

My experience is that a wing window is a lot less expensive to replace than the rubber weatherstrip or the door trim (or paint) should any of these things get damaged. I only know this because I've done all three. And of all three, the fastest and cheapest is by sacrificing the wing window, as described.

"je pisse sur vos chaussures françaises stupides"

My house was broken into earlier this week and all keys to my '73 tii were stolen. The car is in the garage with everything locked except the trunk. Is it possible to get new keys from Max/Mobile Tradition or someone else with the VIN#? I will eventually change all of the locks but for now I just want to get in and drive! TIA...COOP

1) get a replacement wing window lined up

2) get a glass-cutter and score a deep circle into the wing window you'll replace (sorry, but it has to be done) tap out the circle and with care you'll minimize glass-shatter-scatter

3) remove your door handle and take it to a locksmith, theres a number stamped into the inside portion of the handle which provides the keycode for your locksmith. Take both handles down if you want to be doubly sure the key you have made will work. Try it in both handles. This will match your ignition switch key.

4) remove the rear trunk cylinder and take IT to the locksmith also, I don't think there was ever a number stamped on that one, but they can cut a key to fit the tumblers in it.

hope this helps...

The least you could have done was to come up with a better story.

While clearing out the house of an elderly German gentleman, he asked if I would take the old car out of the barn and deliver it to the junkman...

I think we need to have a standard formula for these stories (much like the country & western music code of pickups, dogs, and drinkin'). They need to include:

An elderly or deceased owner

A barn or old garage

A desireable car

The threat of things going to junkyards

A ridiculously low sale price

Move the car into a garage and we might start to believe the story.

you forgot the daisy mae granddaughter, or for this story madchen

I'd be good for 250, tops, IF it doesn't have that stupid seat belt light in the center between the defrost vents. The 3-piece dases are worth a lot more, and a lot of people use the later, 1-piece jobbies on the earlier cars. Why this drives the price up on the ones like yours, I have no idea. Drop me an e-mail if you'd like to sell.