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veronatii

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Everything posted by veronatii

  1. Just got my caps-- they're perfect and complete the classic look I was going for. Thanks @butteiful
  2. veronatii

    New Shoes

    It hasn't been for a while, but she's good to go again!
  3. veronatii

    New Shoes

    Center caps are on! Thanks @butteiful I'll get some more pics when I take the car for a drive this weekend.
  4. veronatii

    New Shoes

    I finally pulled the trigger on a new set of wheels & tires. The Borbet's that have been on the car for years were supposed to be temporary, but as priorities shifted they stuck around. I never really liked them, and they definitely do not fit the style of a 2002.. Yesterday I found some 14x6 Mahle BBS RA119's with tires (185/60/r14) on Facebook market place and jumped on the deal. They were missing the center caps but I've got some on the way. (Thanks @butteiful) I couldn't be happier! And the before shot:
  5. @butteiful These look great! I'm interested in some caps with silver stickers.
  6. I'm quite happy to report that my 2002 runs again! I was able to get her started early last week and have been going through the tuning software to optimize VE targets & timing etc.
  7. Building the wiring harness was arguably the most difficult part of this project so far. I'm using a flying lead kit from ECUMaster which definitely made things easier since the wires are color coded and labeled. Here's the shielded sensor wire termination & junction with the sensor ground. Shielded wires made up the base, then I started twisting the first layer of other inputs, ground and 5v. '' Coil and injector wires are the top layer. I got eager with the Raychem shrink wrap and forgot to add service loops by the ECU 😑 This bus bar collects all the ground wires, then connects back to the chassis & negative battery cable from the trunk in a star point fashion. Overview of the work in progress. Lots of clean up to do of the original wires & fuse box area. Cam, CLT, IAT, Oil Pressure & Temp, Fuel pressure, ICV and a few others here. 02 sensor, coil wires and the factory oil pressure signal.
  8. Yep thats the plan-- drill through the rod and tap a thread.. then maybe add a washer between that and the spring. Originally I wanted to use a collar but there's not enough space.
  9. I decided that V1 of my fuel lobe cam position sensor wasn't going to work for a couple reasons; first being the sensor's low temperature rating and second being the lack of adjustability. Also if this sensor were to melt/fail it wouldn't be a quick fix. V2 moves the sensor outboard of the cylinder head and uses the fuel pump push rod as the activator. The sensor is threaded into the fuel pump block off plate and therefore can be adjusted and replaced easily. A small spring slides onto the rod between the cylinder head wall & support and will be held in place with a set screw. It's a tight fit but I think it should work. Here's where the spring will fit. I have a stiffer spring on the way with an 8mm ID and should fit nicely. Total rod movement is about 4mm. I had to use some JB weld to fill the v1 hole. I'll probably end up ordering another block off plate so I can start fresh. Top view There's some much shorter m8 sensors (~22mm) that will fit a lot cleaner than this 45mm version. Also I'll be making an aluminum angle spacer here as well.. cleanest would be to weld a spacer directly to the block off and thread the whole thing.. Another option would be to just drill the sensor hole perpendicular to the block off plate even though the fuel pump rod sits about 78°.
  10. For sale in La Conner-- anyone on here? Log into Facebook WWW.FACEBOOK.COM Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
  11. To avoid the heat issue I could move the sensor out of the head, and use the fuel pump rod as the pickup instead of the cam directly. Something like this.. You're definitely not wrong, but as AustrianVespaGuy said its fun to innovate.
  12. Not sure that a fuel pump body would fit around many EFI or ITB manifolds... But I do like the idea of using the rod/spring to move the sensor out of the cylinder head!
  13. My primary trigger is on the crank as well. I plan to use the cam sensor for sequential ignition, so the ECU only needs to know if we're on the first or second crank rotation for the cycle.
  14. I actually ordered a threaded M8 sensor as well but the length wont work. Its ~75mm from the outside of the cylinder head to the long part of the cam lobe. The threaded portion of the sensor would need to be at least 45mm in order to have threads on either side of the cylinder head bolt support. Another issue could be having exposed cable inside the head. Here's a pic of the "45mm" body sensor which has more like 40mm of threads. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/8mm_tubular/ae1-ap-3a
  15. Ya there's definitely more robust options, but I figured I'd prototype with the $29 sensor This one is good to 120°C and claims to be "oil resistant" Inductive proximity sensor - IGMF 202 GSP - EGE-Elektronik Spezial-Sensoren GmbH - cylindrical / M8 / PNP WWW.DIRECTINDUSTRY.COM Small Inductive Sensor for extreme Conditions, 120° / IP 69 / Temperaturexchange-Proof If the installation space is limited and the ambient temperature can reach 120 °C, this inductive proximity switch is the problem solver. In the flush design, it offers a switching distance of 2...
  16. Thats not a bad idea! Thanks Tommy
  17. Operating temp is definitely my main concern for this design.
  18. I was thinking the same thing. I drilled half way through the block off plate, then drilled the cable hole in from the bottom. After epoxying the sensor into the tube, I pressed it in and used feeler gauges to create a 1mm gap between the sensor and the fully extended lobe. Then added epoxy into the filler cap hole and bolted it on. I masked off the area behind the filler plate so the epoxy wouldn’t stick to the head. Here’s how it turned out!
  19. I'm prototyping a fuel pump lobe cam position sensor using this 6.5mm hall effect with a 2mm sensing distance. Its held in place with an 8mm OD/6.5mm ID stainless rod. Its working well while hooked up to the multimeter.. we'll see how it does when I fire it up! I plan to epoxy the sensor into the tube, but not sure on how I'll keep the tube in place. Any ideas? https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/6.5mm_tubular/ahs-cp-3a
  20. Just ordered my set for local pickup. $18.07 after tax!
  21. Parts have arrived, and it didn't take long for me to test fit the ITBs.. They're beautiful! The red string in the photo is the beginnings of the wiring harness layout. Unfortunately the carbon plenum won't fit over the brake booster.. Do I delete the booster or cut and mold a notch into the plenum? The EMU Classic will sit above the tunnel on this aluminum bracket. I pulled these injectors (0280150440) off an M52 from the junk yard.. not sure they'll work but I used them to wire up the injector sub harness. https://www.injectorplanet.com/products/bosch-0280150440-bmw-13641703819 These LS coils are also from the junk yard Next up will be figuring out a cam position sensor and the complete wiring harness.
  22. Heck ya sounds great! I hope to get mine back on the road by the end of the month.. We'll have to get @stu involved too
  23. Yep, I moved back to Anacortes in May of 2022 after spending two years roaming around the west in my van.. nice to be back in town!
  24. I had a similar thought with using the fuel pump lobe.. has anyone done this? If I remember correctly, the fuel pump shaft is about the size of an M8 stud right? A quick google search shows there are several hall sensors available in that size..
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