tunes

[Guest Anonymous]

need to run a positive wire from my battery to the amps in my trunk, any sugestion as to the best route? (where to come through fire wall etc...) also would like to install the cd player in the glove box in order to maintain the stock look of the old AM Radio, has anyone attempted this bofore?

[Guest Anonymous]

when i did my radio last month i first talked to the local stereo place to pick their brain on the power needed for the radio because i thought unfused direct power from the batter was a BIT uncessary to say the least.

the guy there who'd be doing stereo's for ~10 years couldn't tell me enough how uncessary and wrong it was. according to him, when they run all the stuff in cars today, they can get all the power they need from inside the compartment of the car. ONLY ONCE did they have to get power from outside. (big flat screen) but they can run radio power, amp, tv's, etc. all from ignition. It's all the power they'd need, & its already fused.

Personally i didn't want to fool around w/the ignition on my car, so i got the power from the hazzard light. I don't know if that will be enough to run both your amp & your radio, but for the radio, it was enough for me.

i got the switch power from the a/c power that use to be in the car but PO took out.

what i'd do is stop by one of those places & try to talk to oldest most knowledgeable looking person there...

good luck...

_Dave

[Guest Anonymous]

This is what I'm running and how I did it. I have a Alpine MP3/CD player in center console. I have a pair of infinity 6x9's under rear seat and JL audio 5 1/4 coaxials in kick panels. I have a JL audio 300/4 amp running those. I did have a JL 10W6v2 powered by a PG XS2500, but I just took it out to put it in my now daily driver '95 525. I plan on getting a JL 8w3 and make a sealed box soon to mount up to the rear deck like I had the 10.

I wired direct from the battery, mainly because I really didn't want to "test" the wires of a 30 year old car. Amps require a lot of power and the two amps I had were running a combined 870 watts. When I put higher wattage bulbs in my headlights I almost burned my car till I put a relay to them, but thats a different story.

I hooked one 4 guage wire from the battery to a fuse, drilled a hole big enough to put a gasket/rubber ring as close as I could get to the hole where wiring harness goes into the car. connected a distribution block, where I split the lines with 8 gauge wire for the amps and 12 gauge for the radio. Each item has a fuse again between distribution block and accessory. The nice thing I have found about having a distribution block with multiple splits is that in the future if I want to add anything I can just hook it up to the "block" instead of running multiple wires from the battery.

I know some of you 2002 purists are cringing now, but its just my way of making a enjoyable car more enjoyable. Hey look at it this way, at least I didn't cut the door panels...I'll see some of you folks at the BA02 Swap and Show

Well hope that helps you out.

[Guest Anonymous]

Since modern cars today require much more electrical, yes the ignition and other main circuits can handle more. And in my opinion after market decks and a low powered amplifier would be ok. But in areas where large amerage draws occur, it is not safe or advisable to wire to existing wiring. Many higher wattage amplifiers require large amperage draws to operate. That kind of draw was not intended to be harnessed off of the existing electrical system.