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Here's another for you electrical tii gurus....


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I went to the CA DMV to title my car today. The lady told me to

pull the car under the awning and she'd inspect it.

After giving it the once over, she told me to pull it into a parking

space and meet her inside. She went in, I got in the car, turned the

key, and nothing. All the dash lights came on, even the 'fasten

seat belt' light came on, which I thought was INOP since I've never

seen it in the 10 days I've owned it. My heart started to pound, it's

Dad's b-day and I'm supposed to be at dinner in 15 minutes.

I pushed it into a parking stall and went in, finished my paperwork

and went back out to try again.......same thing, nothing. I popped

the hood, wiggled the + battery cable and hit the battery cables a

few times, got it and it started up. YEA!

NOW.....I don't have turn signals and the e-break light doesn't

come on. I checked all the fuses and they're all good.

What could be happening??

TIA,

Craig

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Guest Anonymous

Replacing the ground straps and reworking the grounds is a good place to start. The ground strap is pretty cheap. Grounds are located:

1. Under the hood on the firewall.

2. Under the dash beside the heater box.

3. Under the trunk floorboard near the gas tank.

If I missed any, will someone please set us straight?

-Jerry

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Guest Anonymous

hopefully not my sidedrafts on the 70 "cough" 6. Anyways I have delt with that before, I just walked out to pull the car around and actually drove away.

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Guest Anonymous

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like chris said: why are you under the tent in the first place? OUt of state car? weird- usually they just do an odometer check on out of state cars: never heard of a full safety check out. Your car must have worked to drive it to DMV- right? very weird for all to go inop after a successful drive. redo battery terminal and battery grounds to begin with. bet a brush and clean the terminals and make sure you have clean contact. recheck primary grounds to chassis and engine. go through and get everything working and warm before you go next time. I would ask why the hard look test too. Good luck- what county in CA?

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Guest Anonymous

of, the one going to the block and also the alternator one and in your case the one that goes to the firewall, is hard to get to is right behind the rear air intake scoop. I solved all my ground problems by running a second ground from the alternator to the left bulkhead, by all the relays. I can have high beam on, radio, wipers and blinkers on and all the needles stay put and I have a stock alternator.

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Guest Anonymous

You have a bad connection somewhere, and it might have nothing to do with wiggling the battery cables. The '74s had a evil seat belt interlock that has been defeated on most cars by owners or shops; an intermittent connection there could be your no-start problem.

Fuse Box Service (do this once a year): 1) Throw away the fuses. 2) Clean the contact points for the fuses. 3) Bend the curved contact slightly to make it tighter. 4) Install new fuses.

Next time something doesn't work, use a voltmeter to trace the dead signal to its origin, then fix the problem. You will need a wiring diagram; see your owner's manual, or buy a diagram. The tii Register is the only source for a correct US '74 wiring diagram.

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