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Guest Anonymous

best way to proceed with bodywork/rustproofing?

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Guest Anonymous

What's this week's approved method for grinding,

filling/glazing, priming, topcoating that will last?

I know we've all done it a hundred different ways

but this is my 3rd resto and I (again) want it to be

absolutely right. I've had to weld in a rear wheel

arch and some patches here and there. After

welding/grinding, I left them to "season" before I

coated with POR15. I also want to use a totally

metal product called "Metal-Fill" as a filler (in the

South, any filler bubbles up under new paint...it is

NEVER dry enough to leave bare for a minute) then

feather edge with glazing putty.

Should I expect any adhesion problems with this

combination? Has anyone used POR15 on body

panels like this with any problems? Heard of or

used DynaTron's Metal-Fill?

Thanks,

Brent Miller

'71 1600

'75 2002

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Guest Anonymous

sometimes that stuff does not stick too well at ALL. go to your local paint store at least and get the PPG or dupont stuff, they even have a 2 part glazing putty. UNBELIEVABLY better than the bondo stuff. Hope that helps at least a little, good luck!

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Guest Anonymous

the last quart I bought a year or so ago talked about priming the POR surface BEFORE the paint cured (while it's still tacky to the touch) if it was going to be painted over. POR 15 is great stuff, but if you try to sand it, you'll find it's really, really hard.

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